Originally Posted by gelande-strasse
The line still has vac when the connector is unplugged (which I suppose is how it's supposed to work, based on the FSM). How do I check for power? Voltage across the connector pins on the PCM side? Electronics aren't my strong suit...
EGR System Component T e s t i n g - Y J Vehicles with 2.5L
Bring the engine to normal operating temperature.
Operate at idle speed. Test the EGR solenoid as follows:
• Check vacuum at solenoid vacuum source hose (Fig.
36). Disconnect the line and attach a vacuum gauge to
• Vacuum should be a minimum of 15 inches.
• If vacuum is low, check the line for kinks, twists, or
a loose connection at the throttle body vacuum port.
• If vacuum is OK, remove gauge, reconnect the line
and proceed to next step.
• Check vacuum at solenoid output port (Fig. 36).
• Disconnect the line and attach a vacuum gauge to
output port. Vacuum reading should be zero (no vacu*
um) at this side of solenoid.
• If vacuum reading is zero, leave the gauge connected
and proceed to next step. However, if vacuum is present,
check solenoid/ECU operation with the DRB II Service
Diagnostic Tester and repair as necessary.
• Disconnect electrical connector at solenoid and note
vacuum at output port. Vacuum should now be present
at output port.
• If vacuum is present, proceed to EGR valve test. How*
ever, if vacuum is not present, replace the solenoid.
***This is from the manual.^^^
When you remove power, the solenoid opens, and vac goes to the EGR valve. When you apply power, the vac is stopped by the solenoid valve