rod bearing emergency!!!!!! i need an expert - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
riverhippy
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rod bearing emergency!!!!!! i need an expert

im installing a new cranckshaft that came with rod and main bearings....2 of the rod bearings look like this pic....is this gonna be an issue? HELP...before i make my butt any more sore by doing this again and again.....

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post #2 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 02:11 PM
pete1991YJ
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I fail to see the issue. The bearing insert is *supposed* to stick up slightly from the rod cap. Crank brgs are the same way. See, they are not true round circles until you bolt it all back together - this squishes the bearing inserts into place and makes them round and tight. So yeah, this is normal and expected. Its supposed to be that way.

Are you using plastigauge this time just to check? I would for sure.
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post #3 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 03:00 PM
gbeltran
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Have you tried installing it? How does the bearing look in the other half of the rod? They are not supposed to be perfectly flush since the bearing needs a certain amount of "crush," but that looks like it's sticking way up, I don't ever recall seeing one that far out of the bore. Was is clean on the cap and back of the bearing, and I mean surgically clean? Is it sticking up on both sides, I can't really see if it's flush on the other side, looks it, but you know how a pic is. How much is actually sticking up?
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post #4 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 04:25 PM
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No it should not stick up that far on one end if it is seated correctly (Not sure it is). More, better pics overhead shots too. Really need to work on keeping things cleaner.

Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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post #5 of 42 Old 03-17-2012, 04:30 PM
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First gently screw it down and into place and then unscrew and pull the cap off. You might find that it was simply not fully seated at first.
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post #6 of 42 Old 03-21-2012, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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ill be using the plastigage on it...almost done!!!!!!!
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post #7 of 42 Old 03-21-2012, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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End play

My gf wants to play with my end....sooooooo....how do i check for endplay in my crank? (the one on the jeep...lol) How much should there be? I bought a feeler gauge....just becz i liked the name...how do i use it??
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post #8 of 42 Old 03-21-2012, 05:50 PM
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverhippy View Post
My gf wants to play with my end....sooooooo....how do i check for endplay in my crank? (the one on the jeep...lol) How much should there be? I bought a feeler gauge....just becz i liked the name...how do i use it??
Cool on the feeler gauges. Should be part of everyone's tool set. They are the most basic way you can measure all kinds of clearance, thickness, etc. Not just crank ends. Been around for a hundred years.

Here's how ya do it:

Get a big fkin hammer and whack the end of the crank, straight in lengthwise. Just one sharp rap.

Now take your feelers and try to start slideing the different thickness blades in between the cheeks of the crank (the counterweights and rod throws), and the wall of the block. Usually you can do this against the side of a main bearing cap. Some guys check all of em. "How much clearance is between the sides of the bearing caps and the side of the crank?" - is the question to ask.

A bunch of the blades won't fit into the gap. The fattest one that just slides in edge-wise, that is your end-play clearance. Kinda liike trying to slide a sheet of paper edge-wise.

I wish I had a pic of it to explain it better, but once you see it, its totally easy, only takes 5 mins.

Specs are from .002 to .006 gap. Remember one side is gonna be zero, the other side is gonna give you your measurement.

ETA: This is one of the specs that sets your oil pressure - Tighter the clearance = more the oil pressure

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Last edited by pete1991YJ; 03-21-2012 at 05:52 PM. Reason: oil
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post #9 of 42 Old 03-21-2012, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ
Now take your feelers and try to start slideing the different thickness blades in between the cheeks of the crank (the counterweights and rod throws), and the wall of the block. Usually you can do this against the side of a main bearing cap. Some guys check all of em.
You only check the main bearing that has the thrust face on it. And check each pair of rods, put the feeler gauges between the two connecting rods. Checking the mains without the thrust bearing will do nothing but waste your time....
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post #10 of 42 Old 03-22-2012, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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ok, getting ready to whack it off now.....but i had another question pop up as i drew back my BFH: is the new rear main supposed to be flush with the block when seated correctly or is it push in as far as possible?
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post #11 of 42 Old 03-22-2012, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverhippy View Post
ok, getting ready to whack it off now.....but i had another question pop up as i drew back my BFH: is the new rear main supposed to be flush with the block when seated correctly or is it push in as far as possible?
Yeah, its seated radially like the other ones. Whacking the crank with the hammer seats it axially. Its already seated radially. The hammer whack also seats the crank and opens up the thrust clearance to whatever its going to be. And yes, it is measured between a crank cheek and the face of the thrust bearing. Axial measurement.

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post #12 of 42 Old 03-23-2012, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
Cool on the feeler gauges. ....... the sides of the bearing caps and the side of the crank?" - is the question to ask.

..............clearance = more the oil pressure[/B]
i used a massive rubber mallet....clearance is same on both sides? .0035''
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post #13 of 42 Old 03-23-2012, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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OK...here's the rod bearing clearances

no 1 was tapered? .0015-.002 all 3 other rod bearings measured .0015

sorry about all the questions that may seem stupid....just so you know where i was coming from....when i got into this fiasco i had to look up the difference (and location of) the cam shaft and the crank shaft...lol
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post #14 of 42 Old 03-23-2012, 05:38 PM
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Seems good to me, on both of them! I would double check the torque on all the bolts, start putting her back together again. BTW you did lube the crank and bearings before bolting them in, right? The good news is this kinda job is pretty rare - it takes a *long* time to burn out the bottom end of an engine that far. Decades. Once every 200,000 miles. So I think yer prolly good to go!

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post #15 of 42 Old 03-23-2012, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
Seems good to me, on both of them! I would double check the torque on all the bolts, start putting her back together again. BTW you did lube the crank and bearings before bolting them in, right? The good news is this kinda job is pretty rare - it takes a *long* time to burn out the bottom end of an engine that far. Decades. Once every 200,000 miles. So I think yer prolly good to go!
thanks....yeah after i cleaned off the plasitcrap, i relubed....ill double check the torque on all..one problem worries me, i just gauged the side clearance of the connecting rod caps and it was .008 on one side and nil to .0015 on the other side...is this too much?
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