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Unread 02-28-2012, 11:15 AM   #1
riverhippy
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rod bearing disaster

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...e-out-1295828/

above is my previous thread if you want the longass history of the jeep. Short version: I finally found the cause of the knock. No 4 Rod bearing was shot. I replaced it and the new one spun. before i put it back togther should i uses an undersize bearing? -.010 or -.020???
the journal is grooved from the original rod bearing going bad...replace the crank?
1991 wrangler
2.5L
standard trans
lotsa miles on this beast.

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Unread 02-28-2012, 12:19 PM   #2
Jeepsr4me
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You would need to have the journal measured and maybe ground to just replace a bearing with the next size. Never have I seen a journal ready for next size bearing just from wear... Always needed machine work...
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Unread 02-28-2012, 12:28 PM   #3
MLJeeper
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As the previous poster stated, you or going to have to have machine work done. You might as well go ahead and rebuild it and be done with it. If you keep playing with just throwing another bearing in and praying she runs, your going to destroy the crank, rod and or the rest of the components from the **** moving through the oil passages. The rod and crank may be done all ready from the sounds of it.
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Any video of the sound?
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Unread 02-28-2012, 12:34 PM   #4
oldtime_ironman
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Engine rebuild time. Better start getting quotes on a machine shop; ask around locally and see who everyone recommends. See what the warranties are. You can save some $$$ by pulling it out and disassembling it yourself.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 12:48 PM   #5
bharris68
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5 Year, unlimited mileage - this is where mine is going when I pull it

https://www.barnettesengines.com/uploads/Jeep.pdf
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Unread 02-28-2012, 01:12 PM   #6
riverhippy
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Originally Posted by bharris68 View Post
5 Year, unlimited mileage - this is where mine is going when I pull it

https://www.barnettesengines.com/uploads/Jeep.pdf
going there for what? what are they...where are they?
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Unread 02-28-2012, 01:30 PM   #7
40dog
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Did you plastigage the new bearing when you put it in to see what the clearance was.You can pull the crank get it turned at a machine shop and drop it back in with new rods and mains .Cheaper than a rebuild and in the future if you do a rebuild the crank should be fine.With a quick turn around at the machine shop, in a couple days you will be running again.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 01:43 PM   #8
riverhippy
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Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
Did you plastigage the new bearing when you put it in to see what the clearance was.You can pull the crank get it turned at a machine shop and drop it back in with new rods and mains .Cheaper than a rebuild and in the future if you do a rebuild the crank should be fine.With a quick turn around at the machine shop, in a couple days you will be running again.
i didnt plastigage it....was debating on a refurb from autozone for $188
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Unread 02-28-2012, 02:44 PM   #9
oldtime_ironman
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Originally Posted by riverhippy View Post
i didnt plastigage it....
There is your problem. Yes, the cheap and easy way out of this is to get a new crank at autozone or somewhere and make *sure* it comes with the correct bearings.
.
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Unread 02-28-2012, 10:06 PM   #10
riverhippy
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There is your problem. Yes, the cheap and easy way out of this is to get a new crank at autozone or somewhere and make *sure* it comes with the correct bearings.
.

thanks iron i think the damage was from the the first bearing that went bad. what reading should i look for on the plastigage?
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Unread 02-29-2012, 04:19 AM   #11
oldtime_ironman
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Originally Posted by riverhippy View Post
thanks iron i think the damage was from the the first bearing that went bad. what reading should i look for on the plastigage?
Con Rod:
Desired 0.0015"-0,002" Allowable 0.001"-0.003"

Main Bearings:
Desired 0.002" Allowable 0.0025"

Note these figures are pretty much identical to every other engine made in North Amerca since WW1 till the 1990's. I highly recommend just get a new/re-ground crank and ask for the matching bearings with it. Since the crank is too critical to try and fudge things and go cheap and all, its just not worth it to mess with old stuff - get a fresh one with the matching bearings. They may or may not include the plastigauge so you can double check it. Ask if they include it, and if not then its only $5 more.
.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 07:25 AM   #12
Que89YJ
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Hey RH! The question you need to ask yourself is if it is worth chancing another incident like last summer and not be able to enjoy the summer with the GF because you are dealing with not dealing with the entire issue. With the age and mileage 1 spun bearing is only the start. If you have the scoring on the crank then you need to at least drop the crank and regring the shaft and redo the lower end. Any bearing you put on it will end up letting go again, it's just a matter of time. Do it right and enjoy the summer with the GF. Hell, I want to see her myself out on the beach!
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Unread 02-29-2012, 07:43 AM   #13
Louie4
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Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Hey RH! The question you need to ask yourself is if it is worth chancing another incident like last summer and not be able to enjoy the summer with the GF because you are dealing with not dealing with the entire issue. With the age and mileage 1 spun bearing is only the start. If you have the scoring on the crank then you need to at least drop the crank and regring the shaft and redo the lower end. Any bearing you put on it will end up letting go again, it's just a matter of time. Do it right and enjoy the summer with the GF. Hell, I want to see her myself out on the beach!
Got to get it ready for the twenty something GF. No doubt.

I would be tempted to get a reman'ed one or try to find a used one. Of course if it's used you might be in the same boat. Now that I think about it, I'd just pull my motor an rebuild it since it's not my DD. If you do decide to fix this motor you'd probably end up doing a complete rebuild. I would take it to a machine shop and have them match the bearings with the new crank. By the time you've taken the crank out you start to think about a new cam, timing assembly, rockers, push rods, etc.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 08:35 AM   #14
pasinbuy
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If you are in the Detroit area. I am sure that you can find a good low mile junk yard motor to replace it with. Just get on the phone and start calling. If you live on the east side also call the west side.

If I lived where you do that is exactly what I would do. Plus it is easier to replace the motor than to work on it.

You live in the best place in the USA to do this.
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Unread 02-29-2012, 09:11 AM   #15
Que89YJ
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If you are looking for an engine try Chris: CFoffroad.com
810-650-3206



Tell him Darryl sent you. He has a bunch of Jeeps he is parting out and he is up by Armada in Riley so he is close by.
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