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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #31
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I missed the update before but I really liked those new bumpers. nice.

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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
Well shes been a good jeep. Im getting ready the process of stripping her down to get ready to build a buggy out of her. Keeping the same engine,trans, and tcase.
My YJ running gear has been fine in my crawler

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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
Going with a Ford Dana 44 65.5WMS, and a Ford 9in 65.5WMS rear. 4-5 front stretch, 4 link, 18in travel Radflow air shocks. 3-4 rear stretch tri 4 link,
9" is not enough for 43's. Your set up before was pushing the limits of safety and you are making the same mistake again. tires always in the air - will roll when it shouldn't. You should be thinking 108-110. Why design something that is so far off the norm? based on your wheeling pictures I think you are making a mistake. I'm not being a dick but I am concerned. You will be much shorter than anyone else on 40's much less 43s.


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Yes, i dont want 60's two reasons, one clearance
If you are running 43's a 14 bolt barely affect clearance... much less a 60.

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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
Theres no reason I cant run 43's on a D44, Ford 9in combo.
You should really do some research. Thousands of wheelers before you tried this stuff and failed, learn from them. between the wheel base and the 3/4ton axles... good luck. bring spare parts and pay your life insurance up.

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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:17 AM   #32
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I still believe the 44's will handle the 43's just fine. Heres the deal, I can pick up 44's at the pick and pull for $220, or I can search CL and pick up a Dana 60 for $1500-2K. Yes they do cost that much. I can build a Dana 44 that just a strong as a Dana 60 and be into it less then a stock dana 60. It all comes down to cost, once in a while you can find the rear Dana 60's if I come across one Id pull it. I dont wheel with heavy throttle its not often my tac gets above 2500RPM. Spinning my tires and bouncing my front end around is something I dont do. And my wheel base i was shooting for was 105, but you have brought up a point. Ill stretch it a bit more and shoot for 108-110. I was hoping not to do any frame modification but I might have too.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:19 AM   #33
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at some point its just best to build a buggy from scratch. ill never understand people who hack up a jeep until its all tubed out and the only thing left is a grill shell ziptied to the tubing. save the jeep and start with a tubular chassis. you will end up having a cool trail jeep, a DD, and a crawler; instead of a vehicle you cant drive on the road, thats overbuilt for trails and looks like *** and is a pain to make even minor changes to.

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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
I was hoping not to do any frame modification but I might have too.
with 43s, 18" shocks, and 65.5" wmw you will definitely have to do quite a bit of frame reworking. the WMW will be a big issue. the front axle assembly in my avatar is that width and i had to mount the coilovers over the steering knuckle and i still needed to shave the bottom of the frame and notch the sides of it.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:23 AM   #34
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I dont know how close you are to Kalispell MT but here is a sweet deal on a set on tons.http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/3615927145.html it might be worth the drive you probably couldnt build your d44 for this price.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:25 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by fratis View Post
at some point its just best to build a buggy from scratch. ill never understand people who hack up a jeep until its all tubed out and the only thing left is a grill shell ziptied to the tubing. save the jeep and start with a tubular chassis. you will end up having a cool trail jeep, a DD, and a crawler; instead of a vehicle you cant drive on the road, thats overbuilt for trails and looks like *** and is a pain to make even minor changes to.
But thats not what I want to build. I dont want a full tube buggy, I want to build my YJ into one. I do have a cool trail Jeep and DD its my 93 ZJ, the YJ sucks as a DD as it currently and I cant fit 4 adults plus gear to go out wheeling, beach, woods ect. Dont even get me started on what it takes to go camping for 4 days.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:26 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by skyj View Post
I dont know how close you are to Kalispell MT but here is a sweet deal on a set on tons.http://montana.craigslist.org/pts/3615927145.html it might be worth the drive you probably couldnt build your d44 for this price.
That is a good deal but its passenger side drop I need driver.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:29 AM   #37
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was going off of this...
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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
...stripping her down to get ready to build a buggy out of her.
again how can you do the above and leave the frame untouched?
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:33 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Pawjob View Post
I was hoping not to do any frame modification but I might have too.
with 43s, 18" shocks, and 65.5" wmw you will definitely have to do quite a bit of frame reworking. the WMW will be a big issue. the front axle assembly in my avatar is that width and i had to mount the coilovers over the steering knuckle and i still needed to shave the bottom of the frame and notch the sides of it.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:40 AM   #39
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was going off of this...


again how can you do the above and leave the frame untouched?
I never said leave the frame untouched I said with as little modification.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #40
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You can run 106-107" without frame mods other than cutting perches. Probably a bit further than that.

This is assuming your running CrMo shafts. The difference with 37s with light alloy wheels and getting away with it on a D30 and 43s with heavy homemade beadlocks on a D44 and not getting away with it boils down initially to u-joints. Same u-joint as the D30, so that will break with tires that big. Could do 300M or Super Joints, RCVs or whatever else if you're not a daily driver, but then that puts the weak point on your R&P, which brings the suckage as far as a trail fix. Stock straight six, you're not going to be happy unless you gear very deep to turn those tires and the deeper you go, the weaker your R&P.

I'm running 44/9 built locked and loaded on 38s (77 F150). I feel as if where I'm at with that setup is my max tire size. I do hold back in some situations so I don't go busting u-joints or lockouts.

Agreed that front HP 60s are way overpriced and usually worth more than the POS that they came out of. Rear 60s are a dime a dozen, but I'd rather run a shaved 14b. You can easily get either for $150-200. I'm not a huge fan of the LP60 like skyj posted, but those can be pretty commonly found for under what the guy on CL is asking for it. Additionally, a FF14b is much easier to setup than a D70, parts are less expensive and that D70 is a dually axle.

For what you're going to spend in a full hydro steer setup, you can buy that front axle (doesn't have to be a 78-79 if you're creative). Run hydro assist and call it good unless you're planning on stretching the front more than the 4-5" you were talking about.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 12:14 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepAddOnsChris View Post
You can run 106-107" without frame mods other than cutting perches. Probably a bit further than that.

This is assuming your running CrMo shafts. The difference with 37s with light alloy wheels and getting away with it on a D30 and 43s with heavy homemade beadlocks on a D44 and not getting away with it boils down initially to u-joints. Same u-joint as the D30, so that will break with tires that big. Could do 300M or Super Joints, RCVs or whatever else if you're not a daily driver, but then that puts the weak point on your R&P, which brings the suckage as far as a trail fix. Stock straight six, you're not going to be happy unless you gear very deep to turn those tires and the deeper you go, the weaker your R&P.

I'm running 44/9 built locked and loaded on 38s (77 F150). I feel as if where I'm at with that setup is my max tire size. I do hold back in some situations so I don't go busting u-joints or lockouts.

Agreed that front HP 60s are way overpriced and usually worth more than the POS that they came out of. Rear 60s are a dime a dozen, but I'd rather run a shaved 14b. You can easily get either for $150-200. I'm not a huge fan of the LP60 like skyj posted, but those can be pretty commonly found for under what the guy on CL is asking for it. Additionally, a FF14b is much easier to setup than a D70, parts are less expensive and that D70 is a dually axle.

For what you're going to spend in a full hydro steer setup, you can buy that front axle (doesn't have to be a 78-79 if you're creative). Run hydro assist and call it good unless you're planning on stretching the front more than the 4-5" you were talking about.
I was running 30 spline chromo shafts and I was running 37 12.50 16.5 GY MT/R's on custom re centered H1 wheels. They weighed 150lbs each corner. I agree you can find the rear 60 and 14bolt cheaper Ill look at picking one up when the funds become available. I would like to stretch out front as far as possible to give me the best approach angle. If I go to far I run into the steering box issue so I figured easy way around that is full hydro. Im not running the stock 4.0L, Im running the ATK 4.7L Baja Stroker and a Stak 3 speed tcase with a 2.97:1, and 5.22:1 low range. My current crawl ration is 92, I would like to keep it close to that and I found 5.38 gears would be my best bet. That would put me at 107. Thats why I want to build my jeep buggy ive put alot of money into the engine and case. The homemade beadlocks were an idea to save money, I found afew other bead locks that woulnt be too much and probably lighter. The other problem is where I wheel its super tight JKs with 65WMS have issues getting around the trees. I really dont want too much wider as ill be unable to go into the areas I want too. But If I have too i can narrow an axle if needed. One last note Im not looking at makeing this street legal this will be a trailered.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 02:18 PM   #42
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I still believe the 44's will handle the 43's just fine.
What you believe and what the truth is are two separate things. You can hope all you want and hum "I think I can, I think I can" all over the trails but it will not change the size of your ring gear, the thickness of your knuckles, the defection of the shafts or the u-joints. Go price out a locker, oversion shafts, crane knuckles and high steer, new innter C's.

You are going to be in $1100 on inner C's and knuckles with out high steer arms, shafts, u-joints, bearings, etc... Your $2500 dollar many man hour Dana 44 is till going to have a dana 44 sized ring and pinion.


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I can build a Dana 44 that just a strong as a Dana 60
No you can't. besides a Dana 50 is cheep and common. They are all dana 60 but the ring gear(slightly larger than a dana 44). For <$200 bucks you can have one at most any junk yard. Way easier and cheaper than putting thousands into a dana 44.

If you grab a newer sterling 10.25 the bolt pattern will match. These are also <$200 at junk yards. They are arguably stronger than a 14bolt and guess what.... you dont have to shave them. They have more clearance than a 14 bolt.. I think 1.5" or so.


Edit.... I might be on to something. Stock dana 50 and stock 10.25 from a super duty. way stronger than a 44/9. cheaper because they are undesireable.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 02:19 PM   #43
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I got laughing typing that first part... just joking
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Unread 02-23-2013, 09:58 AM   #44
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I'm going to do more research on axles. So when my zj is built and the funds are there I can find some axles. Ill scrap Tue 44 idea and are what I can find.
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Unread 05-20-2013, 10:01 AM   #45
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Just finished up the body part of my buggy build, and took her out to see how i like the new body. Still need bumper ill build them here in a couple weeks. Then ill be working on building axles for my ZJ then ill be buying parts for the suspension/axle phase of the build.

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