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Unread 09-01-2014, 08:49 PM   #1
95YJLS
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Replacing some rusty hinges - New body hardware

I'm looking into replacing my door hinges, windshield hinges, hood latches, etc. with Kentrol stainless hardware as a permanent cure for rust.

I'm not sure whether to go with the raw stainless and paint them myself, or go with the black powder coat.

Has anybody gone with the black powder coat hardware? I know epoxy based coatings are not usually UV resistant, and I'm worried that it won't hold up in the sun 4-5 years down the line.

I guess I could always go with the powder coat and use it as my primer.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

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Unread 09-01-2014, 09:24 PM   #2
Chrisnvegas
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Rust in Amarillo? I though Amarillo was kind of a desert.

Everything that was powdercoated on my Jeep looked washed out in a year from the sun. Keep in mind, my Jeep is not a DD and spends it's life in my cave like garage. The original paint is still perfect.
I had to repaint everything semi gloss black. (Light bar, front bumper)

IMHO hinges and hardware MUST be the same color as the Jeep. Chrome hinges and other hardware not color coordinated looks trailer park...
Sorry, just my worthless (but free) opinion.
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Unread 09-01-2014, 10:20 PM   #3
mike134
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I agree with chrisnvegas, unless you go all out.

If you swap windshield hinge, mirror mounts, door hinges, front bumper, rear bumper, gas tank surround, wiper arms, door latch, etc, etc, then I think the raw stainless steel looks awesome. If you half *** it, then it'll look trailer park, as suggested.

It's not difficult to paint them. make sure you take them apart as much as possible first though, otherwise you'll end up with non working hinges.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:36 AM   #4
95YJLS
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My YJ saw 5 salty-road winters in Denver. Thanks, guys. I was considering going all out with black hardware on my red YJ, but if that black fades after only a year or two, it would look very trailer park. The polished stainless look is out of the question for me - polished steel or chrome on red would look terrible.

So now the question is: do I prime them myself, or just paint over the powder coat? I'm leaning toward starting with raw stainless & priming myself so I know my basecoat will be compatible.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 10:40 AM   #5
warthog312
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If you get stainless steel make sure that it's not just stainless plated mild steel, the coating will chip and flake off and then you're right back to the rust. My advice would be to go get some nice new tight hinges, then send them off to a professional powdercoater, he will do it right and they should be sealed off completely and impervious to rust. Good luck, I live in the midwest, rust - the struggle is real.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 11:02 AM   #6
95YJLS
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Thanks. Kentrol advertises their hardware as 304 stainless. 304 will spot, blush, and eventually pit when exposed to the elements if not regularly cleaned & protected, but it won't bubble & flake like mild steel from a chip or a scratch if painted.

Re-painting the whole YJ is on the to-do list for next spring/summer anyway, so I think I'll just start with raw stainless and use the same paint system on the hardware as the rest of the Jeep.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 11:26 AM   #7
mike134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YJLS View Post
Thanks. Kentrol advertises their hardware as 304 stainless. 304 will spot, blush, and eventually pit when exposed to the elements if not regularly cleaned & protected, but it won't bubble & flake like mild steel from a chip or a scratch if painted.

Re-painting the whole YJ is on the to-do list for next spring/summer anyway, so I think I'll just start with raw stainless and use the same paint system on the hardware as the rest of the Jeep.
hmm, that doesn't sound right. are you sure 304 is going to pit and rust? It is one of the highest grade stainless steels that a manufacturer will actually use.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 02:38 PM   #8
95YJLS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
hmm, that doesn't sound right. are you sure 304 is going to pit and rust? It is one of the highest grade stainless steels that a manufacturer will actually use.
If you clean and polish it as it starts to spot & keep it waxed, you will never see pitting. Even if you don't, the pitting would only be minor & cosmetic. But yes, it will pit if left neglected, especially if you live somewhere with salted roads in the winter or on the coast.

316 SS is the gold standard for corrosion resistance, but 316 bolts tend to get boogered threads after a single use, and 316 is silly expensive. 304 is usually the best compromise - good corrosion resistance, good strength, much lower cost, and threads don't booger up like 316. Paint it, and it's better than 316 for corrosion resistance.

My TL-DR Cool Story about 304:
I was on a job site in Jacksonville, FL for 10 months with some brand new 304 electrical panels. By the 4-5 month mark, these panels had minor surface rust over the whole surface with some pitting in the worse spots. Don't get me wrong, that panel will still be standing in 20 years, and won't look much worse than it did at the 5 month mark, but it won't be the nice shiny thing it was when it first went in.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 02:46 PM   #9
mike134
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I know when I was working in the industry, 316 was about the same price as 304 in bulk. We cranked the hell out of the price to the end customer though.
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Unread 09-02-2014, 02:50 PM   #10
95YJLS
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I would've been the end customer on that side of the deal
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Unread 09-02-2014, 03:33 PM   #11
ronkent
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Not sure what the specs are or how you can get ahold of any, but Sherwin Williams makes a +UVR Polane. Myself and SK71 work at a company that does coatings and have discussed using it. We talked about painting our fender flares with it. He knows more about it then I do as the line he runs uses it. I'm not sure how long before it fades but it does have UV resistant properties. Message him and he may be able to tell you about it.
File Type: pdf MyPDF.pdf (33.8 KB, 12 views)

Last edited by ronkent; 09-02-2014 at 03:41 PM.. Reason: Attached the PDS
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Unread 09-23-2014, 12:12 PM   #12
95YJLS
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Ronkent, thanks for the input. I looked into the Polane - looks like a pretty durable topcoat. Unfortunately it looks like it's only available in 5-gallon containers in black, and I probably only need a quart to do my top, flares, and hardware.

I wonder if there is something else out there similar with excellent UV performance & durability, but available by the quart.
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