i did my wifes d35 in her cheroke and did it nwrong the first time and got it to tight which caused the pinion to overheat. you can do it without getting a new crush sleeve but you have to be carefull. i found this quote from another thread
"Follow these simple steps
1. Mark the driveshaft to the yoke before removing the driveshaft. Careful not to release the needle bearings in the u-joint.
2. Mark the pinion, nut and yoke with a straight line for re-installation later.
3. Remove the pinion nut.
4. Pull seal out, lube the new seal before installing it
5. Reinstall the pinion nut and tighten to the same location as before, then turn 1/8 of a turn more, this will preload the bearings in the pinion shaft. [Use red locktite if re-using same nut]
6. Reinstall yoke and driveshaft to same position as before. [Use some sealant on the inside of the yoke to keep oil from seaping through the splines.
That's it! "
also here is the long version by boodyrider "
Ok, here is the CORRECT way to cheat and just replace the pinion seal without replacing the crush sleeve or setting up gears.
Jack the AXLE up.
Open diff cover, remove axle shafts, clean diff area.
I will point out something I didn't have in the initial writeup. You HAVE to remove the brakes, and you HAVE to remove the axle shafts as well. If it leaked, you'll be pulling the cover and cleaning/draining anyway. Do it FIRST, then get your inch pound reading with clean diff and gears, no axles. This will allow you to accurately read the amount of force that is caused ONLY due to the pinion preload, and then be able to reproduce it when you put the new seal in, and the new nut on.
Use a dial indicating (or beam style) inch pound torque wrench on the pinion nut to determine EXACT amount of force in inch pounds required to rotate the pinion. NOT how much to START it rotating, how much it takes to KEEP it rotating once it's moving. AGAIN... tires OFF, brakes off, axle shafts out. RECORD this measurement, and compare to stock settings. (You DO own a manual, right)
Remove the pinion nut any method you wish. You can REMOVE it with an air gun safely, just DO NOT tighten it with one... and make SURE the direction is correct before you hit the trigger.
Remove the yoke.
Remove the seal, noting how deep it sat if it doesn't have a lip. Seal puller helps a lot.
Replace the seal. Having a seal driver helps a lot... but make sure it goes in straight whatever you do.
Reinstall the yoke.
here is the critical part:
Use a NEW pinion nut. Tighten it ONLY with hand tools. DO NOT USE AIR. you'll need a huge pipe wrench or yoke holder and a long breaker bar. Spin it down until it just contacts the yoke.
Measure the amount of force, using the inch pound torque wrench, that it takes to keep the pinion rotating.
Tighten the pinion nut in small amounts, checking rotational force needed FREQUENTLY, until the torque readings to keep the pinion rotating is VERY close to what it was originally, when you removed the yoke. Do NOT tighten the pinion nut more than required to reach that torque value, plus MAYBE 1 to 2 inch pounds more to reflect the additional drag of the new seal. If your initial reading was essentially zero... go with the lowest of the factory settings.
DO NOT MEASURE TORQUE OF THE NUT ITSELF! This is irrelevant. The ONLY number that matters is rotational torque, NOT holding the yoke.
By doing this you can avoid overcrushing the crush sleeve and still reseal your pinion. If you overtighten the pinion nut, you will overcrush the crush sleeve, and likely kill your pinion bearings in the process. It may not happen in the first mile, but it WILL happen much sooner than if you follow the above procedure.
YES, it requires a specialized tool. YES, the tool costs a lot less than a new gear set and setting gears up all over...
Here is a thought: WHY did the pinion seal fail? If it's just a little corrosion on the sealing surface, try to seat the seal on a clean place; they make seals that can be inserted a bit more or less as they have no lip. If the initial torque value was way out of spec, you may need to replace the crush sleeve and set the torque to 'new' spec. Or you may have excessive bearing wear. Either one may well require a bit more thought and repair than just slapping in a new seal and hoping for the best. "
you could also just remove the wheels and drums and not disasemble the axles. then use an inch pound tork wrench to see how much preload is in it with axles installed and copy that
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