Hey guys got a question hoping some one could give me some advice. I am trying to put in a two inch body lift in my 95 yj and i broke a couple of the bolts off and there is no way to get at the nut welded in the body. what is the easiest way to remove broken bolt and more important how to reatatch body thanks in advance for the help.
05-12-2013 03:48 PM
Depending on the location, I have cut the tub open from the top to get 'em out. Then tightened it up before fixing the hole.
This one was on a friends Jeep on the passenger side near the seat. IIRC, we removed his seat to make it easier to get to & repair.
Your die grinder is your best friend at this point. The ones that usually always break are the ones through the back bumper and under the seats. The one under the front grill always seems to be rusted out as well and that one is right out in the open, easy fix. Easiest access for the 2 rear is to remove the rear mud/dirt guards in back by removing the little plastic fasteners. I think there are 3-4 fasteners a side. Then cut a flap out of the tub. Make sure the flap is big enough to remove the 1 1/2 X 2 1/2 pc of flat stock that the broken bolt is in. Pass side is the easiest cause you don't have the gas filler tube to worry about. I just put my lift on a couple months ago and was lucky I only broke the back 2 and the one under the grill. Hope it goes well and happy cutting.
05-12-2013 04:05 PM
^ this guy seems to know a thing or two about jeeps. I did the exact same thing years ago. If this joe guy is doing it then it must be good.
05-12-2013 04:08 PM
X2 for opening the tub based on location. I just finished my installation yesterday. I had about 11-12 hours in my install. to preface my PO had installed a 4" body lift atop the old worn out mounts. I installed a 4" suspension lift and then planned to install a new daystar mount kit with 1" of body lift. What a PITA this project was. I have part numbers if you need new Steel inserts. Mopar still makes them. No easy way around it, if the mounting location is not accessible than you will have to open it up. If the rear ones are gone then you can open up the plastic wheel well covers and access the rear channell. I used steel washers and locking nuts to make these connections. Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, a lot of antiseize (as lubricant also) and torque your front,and rear bolts to 35 ftlbs and main tub mounts to 50 ftlbs.
05-12-2013 05:57 PM
thanks for all the useful info guys i should have my finished next weekend
05-12-2013 07:22 PM
I haven't done it, but I figured I would drill above the bolt with a 1" opening and then put a body plug back in when done. I was fortunate enough to have them all break loose.
08-27-2013 09:36 AM
Originally Posted by Backcountryasm
Make sure you use grade 8 bolts, a lot of antiseize (as lubricant also) and torque your front,and rear bolts to 35 ftlbs and main tub mounts to 50 ftlbs.
I am replacing the OEM mounts with polyurethane from Energy Suspension, have cleaned up the old bolts since they had no rust and used anti-seize, but when I torque the bolts to 35 and 50# it really squashed the crap out of the mounts since there is no steel bushing inside them. Is that normal?
08-27-2013 09:46 AM
you need a sleave inside them like the factory. you can get them at the dealer.
08-27-2013 02:30 PM
Thanks, I'll see if I can use the old ones.
BTW my wife is from Rockwood and all of her family (except us) live there.
08-27-2013 06:25 PM
Nice Info, Love this forum.
08-28-2013 08:54 AM
The old ones won't work. They are in great shape but are OEM and shaped like a mushroom. I'll get some steel tube from Metal Supermarkets and make my own once I figure out how long they need to be.