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Replacing all suspension Bushings - What a PITA!!

1K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  mikwallace 
#1 ·
While working on the front end, brakes, bumper, grill, etc., etc, I determined most all of the rubber was brittle and no longer functional. Guess that's to be expected after 27 years of mud and sand! So I ordered bushing kit from a supplier and tore into it.

The tie rod end rubber caps were easy. But the Trac Bar was set-in for eternity! Here's a pic or two, but finally got the old out and the new in:

Automotive tire Wheel Rim Steering wheel Gas

Automotive tire Bicycle part Bumper Motor vehicle Fender

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Rim Paint


I got the sway bar removed but the driver sway bar mount is different from what was in the kit, so I've got to get another mount.

Looks like the shackle and spring mounts will be a royal pain too. But it's just a matter of perspective and hammer size!

More to come.

Oh, picked up a set of JK wheels today for a bargain. Here's a pic of the wheel (not mounted, just sitting on a caster, but I think it'll look good after mounting.

Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire


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#2 ·
I like the JK wheels. Just curious, why are you keeping the Trac Bar?
 
#3 ·
Hmm? It was on there as stock, I guess. I do not know the difference. Should I not??

Edit: just read a couple threads on this forum and an article on Extreme terrain about Trac bars. Unless I'm missing something (information wise), I'll keep the Trac bar. My YJ has a body lift not a suspension lift. The suspension is O.E.

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#4 ·
mikwallace said:
Looks like the shackle and spring mounts will be a royal pain too. But it's just a matter of perspective and hammer size!Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Try using some old drill bits if you have some, drill as many little holes between the busing sleeve and what houses the bushing. (Yes, drill the rubber out)

This makes bushing removal very easy for me.
 
#6 ·
Don't toss it. If it wasn't for other suspension mods keeping me from doing so, I would put mine back on. It improves steering handing feel a lot. I miss mine for when I'm street driving. I remember when I took mine off, the difference was very noticeable.
 
#8 ·
Someone else posted this, and I saved it.

This is the reason a lot of us have removed our track bars. Not to be confused with the anti-sway bar, which some us still use for better road handling.

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#12 ·
Someone else posted this, and I saved it.

This is the reason a lot of us have removed our track bars. Not to be confused with the anti-sway bar, which some us still use for better road handling.

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Love that pic..... Puts in picture what words fail to get into some folks heads. Any part of your suspension that FIGHTS the other parts during normal use is just :brickwall

Take it off and if you got inspections just keep and put on to have the inspection and then remove.. worthless crap. I have about 50 of them in my scrap pile. Dude bought them from me to make tent stakes. Best use I could see.
 
#9 ·
I was on the fence about the trac bar too, but eventually just pulled the trigger and I’ve never regretted it. It actually makes the bumps in the road a little less jarring with the trac bar removed. I can tell a difference too, because I haven’t been able to get the rear one out. When the front tires hit a bump it is noticeably smoother than when the rear wheels hit it. Sometimes people say they’re handling is worse without the trac bar, but that’s probably because it covers other steering component weakness that can be exposed by removing it. You’re replacing all your other bushings so you’ll probably be ok.

People may be consuming trac bar with sway bar. If yours is a street vehicle, keep the sway bar. If it’s an off road vehicle, get some disconnects so you can get more flex on the trail.


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#10 ·
If your handling is better with the trac bar on, then somethings wrong elsewhere. You should start a thread on it so maybe someone can help you figure out whats going on.

Also, next time you have trouble removing the old bushings, push what you can out with a hammer and chisel then kill the rest with fire.
 
#13 ·
I'm not sure what it drives like. Only put about 5 miles on it before I pulled it in the shop and removed the engine, then started the modified restoration. Guess I'll determine the drivability after I put it back together?

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#11 ·
Been there, done that on the suspension bushings. As someone else said, use the biggest drill bit that will fit and drill out as much of the ribber as possible. My technique was to use a flat blade screwdriver on the edge of the metal sleeve to create a lip. then get an air chisel on that and it will come right out. I did some without the air chisel and just knocked it out with a hammer and screw driver. Much easier with the air chisel. I went poly all around and it improved the ride dramatically. Very tight. I don't off road mine much anymore. If I was doing offroad, I wouldn't go poly since they don't flex as much as the rubber.
If you have not done the rear leafs yet, you may want to do some searching. The bolts were seized in the metal bushing on the passenger side on mine. Most common technique is to cut the bolt. If it is seized in there, it will not move at all. USe a lot of antiseize or consider greasable shackle bolts.
 
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