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Unread 02-10-2014, 07:34 PM   #1
mark1305
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Replacement EGR Tubes?

My 89 YJ with the 4.2 Has had the EGR blocked off since before I bought it due to a rusted out tube and frozen fitting on the exhaust manifold end.

When replacing manifold gaskets a couple of years ago I just yanked the tube and welded the hole in the manifold fitting shut.

I've noticed substantial pinging and detonation during the hot summer months. So much so that I have had to plug the vacuum advance on the distributor and fiddle with the timing.(and discovered I'd actually lost mpg to the effects of the detonation). I'd like to go back to the EGR to lower combustion temps, eliminate the detonation, and not have to sacrifice "normal" timing advance.

I've crawled through this site and about half the Internet with no luck - are there any universal egr tube kits out there anywhere?

If I wasn't already overloaded with other chores, I would consider drilling out the welded fitting on the exhaust manifold, tapping for an appropriate flare or compression fitting and bending up some tubing to connect with the EGR. Or is that the only way to restore it these days?

I'd much rather find a universal kit that would minimize the time and labor involved.

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Unread 02-10-2014, 09:10 PM   #2
SamzJeep
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I just did an engine rebuild/head swap and when I did it, I needed a new EGR tube also. I couldn't find one anywhere, so I fabbed one up using fittings/tubing that I found at a hardware store that had fittings/parts for furnaces. I welded a bung on the header and drilled out the opening. Then I was able to hook the tubing up. It worked out well. Here's a couple pics of what I did. I hope this helps. Good luck...
egr-tube.jpg

egr1.jpg

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Unread 02-11-2014, 03:47 AM   #3
90DesertTanYJ
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Sam, I applaude your fabbing skills for a good idea using locally sourced bits. I am pretty sure what you are using is a natural or propane gas line. I would keep an eye on that flex tube for burn thru. OEM EGR piping isnt corrugated for a reason. Even the stainless ones arent rated for that much heat. I would watch the brass as well. While stainless' melting point is around 2700*, the brass is considerably less at 1600* or so. How long have you been running that set up?

Mark, have you tried a top tier higher octane fuel? Checked your knock sensor? Just sayin.

I dont run an EGR on my YJ or my Vette here in FL without ill effects.

Good luck!
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Unread 02-11-2014, 07:57 AM   #4
mark1305
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Sam, that's pretty good! I never thought of furnace type hardware, since true furnaces are pretty rare down here - if a house has heat its usually a heat pump/ac system or just electric heater strips built into the air handlers.

While I agree with 90DesertTanYJ about keeping an eye on the flex tubing, I wouldn't expect rapid failure if any. I served on a ship that had 2000 hp engines that exhausted through the transom (prior to their midlife renovations). The exhaust tubes had SS bellows in part of their length to allow for flex (ships do flex and change dimensions with temp changes too) and those usually lasted something on the order of like 10 years plus. And the exhaust gases had to be pretty hot because running full speed for any length of time would make the turbos glow white-red.

Knock sensor is out of the equation - nuttered. And my other ride requires premium gas. Ouch. So rather than even trying a tank of premium gas when the knocking was the worst last summer, I did the quick and easy and plugged the vacuum advance and dialed the initial timing back to around 5 degrees IIRC. Instead of the mpg and power dropping, it actually went up over 1 mpg after curing the detonation. And the motor pulled as stronger or stronger - detonation was robbing power too. Right now while its cooler, I have the vacuum advance hooked back up and everything is quiet so far. But hot weather is just around the corner, so this issue has risen back to at least the research and planning level.
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Unread 02-11-2014, 08:24 AM   #5
Old4X
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How is your valve timing?
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Unread 02-11-2014, 09:15 AM   #6
Que89YJ
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That egr doesnt make that big of a difference. Do you get the ping when you are accelerating and when you are holding speed or only when you are accelerating?
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Unread 02-11-2014, 11:13 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
How is your valve timing?
Don't make me check that

I don't have a degree wheel or the other stuff. But as smooth as the Jeep idles and as strong as it pulls from 1200 to over 3000 rpm I tend to believe its right on. I'm always amazed when I read on here about people having to floor the throttle to run over 65 or 70, especially with six cylinders. I can merge onto the expressway by the house and cruise at 70 or more with probably less than half throttle once up to speed

I'm a firm believer in the function of the EGR to lower combustion temps and thereby help with reducing detonation. I've been wrenching on cars and bikes from the 60s all the way up through the latest computer stuff. And the EGR is one of those things that actually helps-if it works right.

The pinging was kind of weird(remember, this was last summer in the heat and so far its been cool and no pinging) - most driving is around town between 35-45 which is barely off idle on the throttle. Normal slight addition of throttle to accelerate with traffic would get noticeable pinging. A little more aggressive and it seemed like less pinging. But hard acceleration would go back to the stick down the picket fence kind of rattle.

The nuttered and rebuilt BBD runs a little rich at idle and off idle, but not enough to foul plugs. All but one look pretty normal. Number 4 cylinder apparently is where all the oil disappears and that plug cokes up pretty quickly lately. Which doesn't seem related to the pinging since its not pinging lately.

Since I mentioned the carb, there is a 2150 sitting in the garage awaiting clean up and rebuild kit. At the rate other stuff keeps breaking around here, I'll be proud if I get it swapped in by maybe June.

And speaking of breakage, now my timing light is on the fritz. Works only when it wants to. Always something.
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Unread 02-11-2014, 11:53 AM   #8
Old4X
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You can at least check your chain slack. Take dizzy cap off. turn crank till "O" is under the timing mark. Turn crank the other way and stop when the rotor starts to move.

If over 7 degres, (read degrees on the timing scale you use to set timing) you are running late valve timing and need a chain and gears.

Also, what kind of gas? Ethanol laced gas burns more rich in a carbed engine set up for real gas, tends to spark knock in summer, too.

and these 6 cyl engines have poorly designed intakes. #s 3 and 4 cylinders always run rich while #1 and #2 always run lean when you are dialed in.
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