replaced pinion seal - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
kjg26
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replaced pinion seal

I replaced my pinion seal on my Dana 30 with 4.10s using the mark the differentual, mark the yoke, market the nut method. Ive got a Aussie locker in the Dana 30 so I know my front drove shaft is spinning. Currently I have the Dana 35 with 3.07s installed still. Waiting for some free time for the 8.8 install.

What I'm trying to figure out is...how can I verify that I got the nut back in the correct place? Would driving around in two wheel drive tell me anything? Since the driveshaft IS spinning due to the locker? Or is my only way or telling to wait until I put the rear axle in and drive in four wheel? Or pull and use the diff gear paint method?


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post #2 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 09:54 PM
johnboy68
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If your marked everything and put the nut back on in the same place I'm sure it's good. Did you do anything to keep the nut from coming loose? That's as important as getting it back on.

-John-

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 10:04 PM Thread Starter
kjg26
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Blue lock tite. Any aditional input?

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post #4 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
kjg26
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Would I be able to hear or feel anything while driving in 2 wheel with the Aussie in the front?

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 10:52 PM
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Only if your shaft isn't balanced.

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
kjg26
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That would be the same as before I changed the pinion seal though right?

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post #7 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 11:00 PM
Anticanman
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One would hope. If it chatters and locks up then you've got a problem. Just scribe the nut and check t every once in a while to see if it moves. If you've got a leak, that's even easier to see.

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post #8 of 13 Old 08-29-2013, 11:35 PM
95YamJam
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Not saying yours is wrong but.... On mine I used the rotational torque method as a first and a mark the nut second. If I had gone by the mark the nut method it would have not been within spec. You will find out pretty fast if she is not right.

My build: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/95-yam-project-1527472/?highlight=
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post #9 of 13 Old 08-30-2013, 12:06 AM Thread Starter
kjg26
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Lol. Guess its too late now. Time will tell. Hopefully the 8.8 will be in in the near future. Thanks all!

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post #10 of 13 Old 08-30-2013, 02:23 AM
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What you are trying to circumvent is pulling the carrier and using an inch/lb torque wrench and setting the pinion preload properly. Many people get away with all manner of tightening it back down and never seem to report back that they had trouble. If they had trouble there would be a percentage that wouldn't post anyways. My first attempt i did it wrong and ended up with a loose pinion. Didn't cause too much trouble and there were no audible/visual signs other then when i grabbed the shaft and tugged on it. If it were a rear it would be a different story.

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post #11 of 13 Old 08-30-2013, 06:40 AM
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As long as you put the same shims back in the pinion just crank the nut to the corrcet torque value.

YJ Dana 30 doesn't have a crush sleeve right? well mine didn't So you cant really go to far if you torque it to spec.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #12 of 13 Old 08-30-2013, 08:00 AM
1998zj
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Yup, no crush sleeve on the 30. If it tight, you should be ok. You just don't want any play in the bearings or you will destroy it.

"Our lady of blessed acceleration don't fail me now"
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post #13 of 13 Old 08-30-2013, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
kjg26
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Ok. Torque on this puppy is 200 ft/lb?

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