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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Replace front axel seals
This is what I found out about replacing front axel seals. I placed two threads earlier to get help because I was having a heck of a problem installling my front axel seals. I did a search and found little help, now that the job is done I am doing this thread to help others.
The parts you will need from your hardware store are: 3 - 3/4" nuts. 1 - 2 foot long piece of threaded stock about 1/2 inch thick to fit the 3 nuts above. 1 - 2 inch thin fender washer to fit into the passenger side seal to center threaded stock into the seal, prevents damage to seal. 1 - 2 1/4 inch thick fender washer (make sure it is thick and heavy duty) 3 - regular washers to fit the threaded stock, I am not sure what size. 1 - washer to cover the hole on the 2 1/4 washer because it will probably have a large hole and the nut and regular washers will go through if you forget this one. 1 - 8 inch piece of 2x4 wood. Hard wood or treated wood is best. A one and three eights, 1 3/8 socket will make the seal on the drive side go easier if you have it although if not the parts above will work By now you have the wheel, brakes etc off and the gears and axels out of the front end. If you have the 1 3/8 socket this will be useful installing the driver side seal. I am going to talk about the passenger side because that is the one that I had the problem with and for the most part the same applies to driver side except that if you do use the the washers to install the driver side seal do not use the 2" washer on the driver side it will pop the seal spring out. Just be careful not to damage the seal with the threaded stock. I am sorry I do not have pics, I did not take pics when I did the job. I will describe the job the best I can. Drill a hole on the middle of the 2x4 and about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2 from the bottom of the 4" side large enough to fit the threaded stock. Take out your shift fork, I am thinking that you have already popped your old seals out. If not run a socket through to pop them out. Take out you short shaft, it will get into the way of installing the new seal and it will fit through the new seal with no problem. Clean everything, shoot some brake cleaner through and push a rag through from the inside out. Place a washer and a nut on one end of the threaded stock place the 2x4 on the end of the front end and measure the threaded stock to the to stick out through the shift hole opening about one inch. Place your seal on through the shift hole then your 2" washer to center the threaded stock and not cause damage then the 2 1/4" washer then whatever washers to close up the hole on the 2 1/4" washer. You can place two nuts on either end to hold the threaded stock when you tighten it down. Now here is the trick to a difficult seal to install. In fact the most difficult that I have ever encountered. Make sure everything is centered then tighten the single nut until it is tight then: Tap the 2x4 about 1/2 inch side to side of center. Then tighten the nut again. Feel inside top make sure the seal is going in straight. Repeat until seated The trick is the tapping of the 2x4 to coax the seal in. Do not hit the 2x4 to much or you run the risk of damaging the seal. I did not address this earlier but make sur the threaded stock is pretty much centered in the axel end hole to avoid damage to seal and to coax seal straight in. If you did not drill the hole to the lower side on the 2x4 this will not be possible. I had the problem with the spring behind the seal popping out one time so feel around after the seal is in to double check if the spring did pop out them just slip it back on. I hope the thread helps.
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Pictures are worth a bazillion words on doing this. I've got to do the same thing after doing my non disco convert, with a cherokee shaft. I tried 2 seals and demolished both of em. lol
__________________
4.2 EFI - Pacesetter header - Flowmaster - 4.5" RE XD - RE Monotubes - 35" Trxus M/Ts - 4.10s - D30 Aussie - 8.8 Trac Lok - NV3550 - Centerforce Dual Friction - B&M Shifter - ARB Snorkel - Livewires - M8000 - Duralined interior - custon front bumper - custom brush cables - HiLift on the hood with lights "Don't follow me, You won't make it!" |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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Sorry about no pics I did not plan on doing this thread. I was so happy when I finaly figured the trick. I ruined a few seals also so you can guess my frustration too. I hope I was technical enough explaining this job to help others.
Again the trick was the tapping of the 2x4 back and forth to seat the seals. |
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