removing rear factory shackles -
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post #1 of 10 Old 02-24-2002, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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removing rear factory shackles

how do you get the bolts out aroung the gas tank?

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post #2 of 10 Old 02-25-2002, 12:34 AM
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I had to cut mine with a sawzall. I don't have a torch and it's to close to the gas tank! I took the nut off then pushed the bolt through as much as i could. Then cut it in half and pushed the remanding part of the bolt through. Just remember! When you reinstall the new bolts, put the bolt pointing inward towards the gas tank. this way they will come off easy if you ever hace to take them off again. Hope that helps
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post #3 of 10 Old 02-25-2002, 04:22 AM
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Once you have the nut off remove outside half of the bushing and you should be able to wiggle the bolt out at a angle.

94 YJ 4.0 HO 3sp Auto, 3" RC Lift, 1" Shackles, 3" BL, 31x10.50, Pacesetter Armor-Coated Header, Homemade Air Intake w/ K&N
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post #4 of 10 Old 02-25-2002, 05:50 AM
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Or you can drop the gas tank down enough to pull the bolts off. Just make sure you have an empty tank.

93' YJ
00' TJ
02' KJ
04' Dodge Ram

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post #5 of 10 Old 02-25-2002, 09:02 AM
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I ran into this problem about two weeks ago when I decided to put in a temporary shackle lift to give a little extra height to my Jeep until my lift kit arrives. What I thought would be a 30-40 minute project turned into a four hour headache.
I started out using a sawzall, but went through four blades before moving on.
After four hours of sawing, beating, and swearing I decided to grind the head of the bolt off.

Once the heads of the bolts were ground off the rest of the job took a measley 10 minutes...
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post #6 of 10 Old 02-25-2002, 04:45 PM
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The bolts on my 95 were in with the nut on the gas tank side. They were installed that way from factory. Just a fluke or what? Everyone else seems to have the bolts installed the way you guys do. HMMM?

95, 4" susp. lift, 33x12.50 ProComp M/T's, custom square tube bumpers, , energy bushings, 4.0 HO, everything stock, 1" or 2" body lift and who knows what else coming soon.
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-01-2002, 11:58 PM
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reciprocating saw works, but will have to be patient.

1987 Wrangler. Rancho 5000's, Centerforce clutch, 1 1/2 shackle lift, K&N, TFX header and exhaust, 31" BFG's.

1998 Grand Cherokee. Bone stock (wife's). Soon upgrading rotors. pads, and shocks.
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post #8 of 10 Old 03-03-2002, 08:40 PM
Charlie L
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I did this last week. I was able to get mine out by first removing the metal bushing, then was able to work the bolt out. The drivers side was a little more difficult than the other, but I didn't have to do any cutting. Good luck.

87 YJ, Wilderness Safari Rack
31/10.50 BFG's on 15X8 Atlas wheels, 1.25" shackle lift,
Weber Carb
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-03-2002, 09:00 PM
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The easiest, and quickest way to remove them is to: 1) remove the nut completely 2) remove the outer rubber bushing (takes a min or so to pry it off with a large flathead screwdriver) 3)with the outer bushing removed, use that same scredriver to push out the inner bushing (from the outer side).
Once both bushings are removed, the bolt will easily just fall out. The whole process takes a couple minutes and will save some knuckles. Of course, when installing the new kit, just put the bolt in from the outer side (will make it a snap if you ever need to do them again).

95 yj, 4 cyl, auto trans, 4:88 gears, detroit front locker, rear detroit with super 35 kit, short shaft conversion, 4" superlift, 32" superswamper radials
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-03-2002, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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thats what i did and they fell right out
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