Removing metal dash support write up - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 10-06-2009, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Removing metal dash support write up

I had noticed that my metal dash support, behind the instrument cluster had started to rust. I had bought a replacement on ebay for 60 bucks, so i decided i would take some pics and show how i changed it.

So first off, heres a pic of my original dash, minus the radio. Mine got wet but i managed to catch it before it shorted out.



Before you start, remove all the bolts holding the windsheild and fold it down.

First thing off is the bezels around the guages. Pretty self explanatory, its just a bunch of phillips screws.





Now where the first difficult part comes in... The glovebox.
You can choose to leave it in for now, as it will come off with the metal support later if you want.

There are more of the phillips screws at the top near the dash pad. Remove those, and the bolts holding the glovebox door on. It will look like this.



But wait, the glovebox wont come off just yet. There are 4 tiny screws put in backwards. They are a major PITA to get out, and i dont think they are entirely neccesary... damn jeep engineers..

Now i found it easier to drop the AC vents now (if you have AC) to get at the screws.





After the AC vents are dropped, you can get a small ratchet underneath the get at the screws. theyre small little buggers



In my case, the glovebox still was stubborn and wouldnt come out because the screws got rounded off, so i decided to continue.

The next step was to start removing the instrument cluster and switches. Also, make sure you label them with masking tape so you know what goes where when replacing the dash.









Then the heat controls needed to be removed. Unplug the wiring harnesses, cables, and vaccuum lines. Again, label all for reassembly.



Talk about bad rust, right?
Also, ignore the bent metal in between the radio and heat controls. That was how i got the controls out before figuring out how to got off the cables.

Then goes the dash pad, more phillips screws. Again, self explainatory.



Almost there...
The bolts along side the speakers need to be removed. These are the last bolts keeping the dash on.



Now the dash support is loose. Yay!
Oh wait, the rust only gets worse...
Not to mention the large amount that fell while removing it...




1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, AMC 242, AX-15, 4" Rough Country Lift Kit, Hunter Green
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Last edited by Bl4cK_kNiF3; 10-06-2009 at 05:31 PM.
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post #2 of 15 Old 10-06-2009, 04:59 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Removing the wheel

Well the dash is loose, but stuck on because of the steering wheel! Get a steering wheel remover, which is cheap and easy to use, and pull the wheel!

Pull the horn fuse, so you dont shock yourself or sound the horn while taking the wheel apart.



then grab the horn pad and give it a good tug. Dont pry it because its unneccesary.



Unscrew the 3 screws holding the green ring on, and remove everything that is loose.



Then remove the big nut holding the wheel on with a socket.



Now pull out the steering wheel remover and thread 2 of the matching bolts into the screw holes and get the remover set up like so.



Tighten down the puller with a wrench and the wheel will pull off. Dont pound on it with a hammer or pry it off. Its much better to just buy or rent a puller





And viola! The dash support come off!



But the bad news begins... Turns out the rust from the outside of the jeep goes pretty far in, and rusted alot more of the body then i thought.






1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, AMC 242, AX-15, 4" Rough Country Lift Kit, Hunter Green
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post #3 of 15 Old 10-06-2009, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Painting the dash peices

So it turns out the rust is pretty bad.
Its a damn shame... My plan of attack for now is to POR15 everything ALOT. I dont have the money to get it fixed properly at the moment so i need to stop the rust.

After i stop the rust im going to reinforce the crumbling rust with angle iron because only the middle is bad. The outside edges have enough support to hold the dash up, but i need to sandwich the rust between the dash support and the angle iron so it will carry the load.

I know its not the right way to do it, but i need to improvise for now. But the bigger problem is finding where the water is coming in to cause the rust. Its coming in the windshield somehow because its rusting in the slots by the wiper.

Once i water proof the jeep, i wont have to worry about the rust until i can get a bodyshop to cut and weld in metal.

Anyways, While i wait for angle iron, I decided the spice colored interior wasnt to my liking. I decided to go with good ole kylon fusion to change my dash.

First thing i wanted to paint was the new dash panel.

big difference, right?



I sanded down the little bit of rust that was on the new dash, and hit it with some permatex rust treatment. Then i sprayed it with the satin black kylon.



Then i moved onto the bezels. The kylon fusion didnt like to stick to plastic with armor all on it, so i degreased it all and sanded it a bit to get good adhesion.

The trick to using krylon well is to spray a good 12" away from the plastic and start before it and stop afterwards ( like painting a car) to prevent spraying too much in one spot. Also, do a bunch of light coats because it drys fast and will look better.





Same goes for the dash pad


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post #4 of 15 Old 10-28-2009, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Continuing on. I have now finished up the job fixin up the rust below the windshield. I didnt get pictures of the angle iron on the inside, but its cut to sandwich up into the cowling. Top the front with some nice aluminum angle and rivet it all together and it gave it a good, sturdy look. Check it out!



you can kinda see the angle iron behind too





Then i cut the hole for the wiper motor harness.



Started reassembling



Almost done. How do you like the black/olive drab interior??



All done!

One thing though.. I thought i would have to replace the windshield frame, but i kept it and put all the wiper parts back in. How did i go from the wipers facing this way...



to all of a sudden facing this way....



they move to the left now from where they are so if i move the arms the other way they sweep down onto the windshield.

anyone have an idea?

thanks guys

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post #5 of 15 Old 11-11-2009, 08:45 AM
green89yj
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Thats crazy. I took my dash apart and did it tan and olive drab. I had tan everywhere you had black but I did the olive drab inside the gauge bezels and around the radio.

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post #6 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green89yj View Post
Thats crazy. I took my dash apart and did it tan and olive drab. I had tan everywhere you had black but I did the olive drab inside the gauge bezels and around the radio.
thanks. that was some pretty bad rust, right?

and yeah, the 2 tone looks good, and olive drab is always a good accent.

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post #7 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 02:06 PM
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I just painted my dash a while back and was thinking mine would be rusted like that, but lucky me little surface rust that was it. wooohooo

Looks good

Do you remember what size was the nut holding down the steering wheel. I seem to have misplaced mine and need to find another.

I'm a more proactive person.
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You plant the crops before you starve.
And you keep the terrorists in check before you get your *** blowed off.
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post #8 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RebuildRookie View Post
I just painted my dash a while back and was thinking mine would be rusted like that, but lucky me little surface rust that was it. wooohooo

Looks good

Do you remember what size was the nut holding down the steering wheel. I seem to have misplaced mine and need to find another.
well no rust is always a good thing!

and sorry, i dont, but i will need to take it off again soon because aparantly i put it together wrong somehow so the horn doesnt want to work, so i can check it out for you soon

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post #9 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 02:23 PM
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nice write up, looks really good too
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post #10 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 02:26 PM
RebuildRookie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bl4cK_kNiF3 View Post
well no rust is always a good thing!

and sorry, i dont, but i will need to take it off again soon because aparantly i put it together wrong somehow so the horn doesnt want to work, so i can check it out for you soon
If you dont mind, just PM me with the info. I am driving the heep right now as a DD. I have the wheel hammered down on it so its not coming off, already tried pulling it off.

I'm a more proactive person.
You spray the ants before they get in your house.
You plant the crops before you starve.
And you keep the terrorists in check before you get your *** blowed off.
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post #11 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 03:21 PM
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I just put a real small cut under the steering column to remove and install mine. I know you're already done but for those reading.

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post #12 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 03:53 PM
ZeroGravity
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Nice write up. Good call on labeling all your harnesses. I've seen a couple threads where guys get it all apart without labeling anything and spend 4 days figuring it out.

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post #13 of 15 Old 11-12-2009, 04:11 PM
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Added this to the FAQ. Nice work on the repair.


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post #14 of 15 Old 11-14-2009, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
Bl4cK_kNiF3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
Added this to the FAQ. Nice work on the repair.
thanks rusty! now im famous on JF

glad i could be of help guys! sometimes some people need help with some simple stuff so i figured id do a write up for ya!

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post #15 of 15 Old 04-13-2014, 07:37 AM
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I believe you have inspired me to pull mine and do the same!
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