Removal of snapped body mount bolts and bolts in general? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-08-2005, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
SpedJeep
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Removal of snapped body mount bolts and bolts in general?

After having a very, very hard time with rust and bolts with my suspension lift, then snapping a bolt on my transfer case and now most recntly snapping a bolt while installing the posi-lok I'm just wonder whats the best way to go about removing the snapped bolts in general? There as to be a better way than drilling and tapping?

Also, I've been reading some threads about installing body lifts and the problems that arise. Does anyone have any pictures of where they cut through the floor to get the bolt(s) out?


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post #2 of 16 Old 02-08-2005, 01:55 PM
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drilling a pilot hole along with an easy out has always worked for me...

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post #3 of 16 Old 02-08-2005, 08:03 PM
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Man, I can't believe those stupid things worked for someone. Spent hours trying to work with those things. I bet I had more luck swearing at it. I skip all the BS now and just drill and re-thread it. That is, after I PBed the heck out of it first and a little help with a low temp propane torch.

Sorry man, never done a body lift. I'm interested in the amount of labor needed for them as well seeing how my stock bushings are shot (that is, the ones that are even still there).

Thanks for the salt upstate NY!! The next Jeep I get will be out of Florida...

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post #4 of 16 Old 02-08-2005, 09:31 PM
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Easy outs suck for heavily seized bolts. On smaller bolts they have a chance at working. For s$@ts and giggles I tried an easy out (only because it had a lifetime gurantee) on one of my MANY broken body mount bolts and even made sure to use it properly and the right size, BAM blew it in half, the peices looked exactly like a snapped axle shaft.

The body mount bolts are a PITA (read my post in the thread about body lifts that was floating around here today). I tried drilling them out and re-tapping, that's a nightmare, laying on the ground getting cutting oil in your mouth and eyes while you attempt to drill them straight just doesn't work. I took a screw driver and a hammer and hammered upward into what was left of the bolt to "break free" the square tack-welded nut they screw into, inside the body. Then I went inside the jeep and pulled the carpets up, to find out what spot you need to cut all you do is look under the jeep, then guesstimate where the corresponding spot inside the jeep is and look around, there will be a "lump" or "inverted dimple" in the floor where the body mount bolt and nut are. Drill\cut\torch around the lump and pry it up, sure enough the end of the body mount bolt will be there, square nut and all. Pull it out, put some BIG thick fender washers in there (double up) and put the body mount bolt through from the bottom while a friend locktite-red's a nut onto the end of it, tighten, patch the floor with sheet metal, pop-rivet or weld the patch down, and then drill a small hole in it. Why? So you can pump it full of that "mono-foam", the insulating stuff that expands 2000000x it's size. That will fill the air pocket in nicely and keep salt, water, mud, etc from getting in and rotting it out again. hth

My jeep has only ever killed 3 things, a cat, a deer, and my wallet. What's the problem officer?

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Thanks to the price of gas here ($4.25 a gal) I just bought a mountain bike, 0" of lift, 0" of travel, MT's, locked rear axle, oh yeah, it's the sh#$.
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpedJeep
Also, I've been reading some threads about installing body lifts and the problems that arise. Does anyone have any pictures of where they cut through the floor to get the bolt(s) out?
I am a fan of doing things the right way the first time, so nothing looks bogered up. I took the body off a couple months ago for my motor swap and mini-restoration. There are 10 bolts on the body, two by the back bumper, two above the axle, and 3 on each side between the wheels. In my case, the back nut pockets were totally rusted and the bolts were there but doing nothing. The ones above the axle came out with no problem. The center one on each side came out with no problem. The rear and front of the side stripped or broke. So, I had 6 of 10 to deal with.

I am blessed with friends that weld for a living. They built a new box with a nut welded inside for the rear bumper. We cut out some sheet metal and welded a new plate to the rear most of each side bolts, with a nut on top (this is the one with the bubble in the floor inside th tub. The front on each side is accessable from below, but hard to reach with fingers. After removing that bolt and nut plate, I welded a nut to a end of a 1" wide 6" long 1/8" plate. I could then use this 'tail' to position the nut and secure the bolt.

In our assessment, it was just as much work to go through the top and later make the top look nice again as it was to do it right and work with the damage on the bottom.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 02:31 PM
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There are 10 bolts on the body, two by the back bumper, two above the axle, and 3 on each side between the wheels.

Of the 3 bolts between the wheels the center and rear are not accessible without cutting open the body. The front is accessible. www.geocities.com/teqmod/jeep.html has where I cut the whole to access the middle blind nut. The rear one I just drilled and tapped and got lucky.

Good luck!!

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post #7 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=
Thanks for the salt upstate NY!! The next Jeep I get will be out of Florida...[/QUOTE]

Yea I hear ya. Everytime I have to take something off of the jeep I just pray it comes out ok. Love the winters in New England....hate the salt and rust.

1995 Wangler Sahara 4.0 5spd
Accurate power intake with K/N
Borla header
Flowmaster Super 40 minus cat
RE 4in
Xenon flares
SYE
Tom Wood driveshaft
33X12.5 BF mudders
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 06:27 PM
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One trick I use sometimes when I snap off a bolt (depends on accessibility) is to drill a 3/8" or 1/2" hole in a piece of scrap steel (usually something like 1/4"x2" flat stock). I place the drilled hole over the broken bolt "stump" and rosette weld the flat stock to the bolt thru the hole. The flat metal then becomes a lever to turn the bolt. I've found that, by welding the bolt thru the hole, the bolt gets really hot and it usually helps to loosen the bolt (after it cools down some). I then beat the flat piece of steel around with a hammer to undo the bolt. If the flat piece won't spin the bolt all the way out due to interference, I just beat it with a hammer to break it loose and cut off most of it with the plasma. I then use a pair of vise grips to spin the loosened bolt out. Of course.. ya gotta have a welder for this to work but I've had good success with it.

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post #9 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 07:40 PM
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[QUOTE=JeeperDon]I am a fan of doing things the right way the first time, so nothing looks bogered up.

That is all fine and dandy but if Jeep would have came up with a better design, we wouldnt have to go through all this trouble.

Has anyone tried drilling a real small hole in the body tub above the mount so the bolt can be soaked real good with PB. I think I am going to try this first and then only cut holes if I have to. I know that this thread is about getting the broken bolts out, which I will cut holes for the ones that I have to although I dont want to break the other ones if I dont have to.
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post #10 of 16 Old 02-09-2005, 07:47 PM
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If the bolt isn't seized I would drill a hole in it using a left hand drill bit (or was it right, the non-normal kind, put the drill in reverse to go foward) somtimes this will heat it up and catch it enough to back it out, upon failure I would try a taper bit extractor but be sure not to break it off inside the bolt extractors are a PITA to drill out, and I mean that, if that doesn't work I go bigger and use a helicoil or for bolts that take any load a solid version of the helicoil.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-10-2005, 05:51 AM
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I did the "small hole in the cab mod" to soak the bolts, but the Jeep already had a 2" aluminum puck lift, and the aluminum corroded itself to the steel bolts. I had to saw through each bolt above and below the spacer, then drill the cut off bolt out of the spacer . I sure wish the former owner used anti seize compound on those bolts; took me 18 hours to remove 6 of them!
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post #12 of 16 Old 02-10-2005, 05:33 PM
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Corrosion of dissimilar metals really sucks! Ever have aluminum rims stuck to your rotors? I use anti seize on my rims now.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-10-2005, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlllllllO Jeep1
Corrosion of dissimilar metals really sucks! Ever have aluminum rims stuck to your rotors? I use anti seize on my rims now.
yup. galvanic corrosion definitely sucks just as bad as normal rust. tried to do a brake job on a honda with alum rims and it took 4 hours of beating, heating and prying to get tires off. every single one might have been welded to the rotors.

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post #14 of 16 Old 02-10-2005, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OlllllllO Jeep1
Corrosion of dissimilar metals really sucks! Ever have aluminum rims stuck to your rotors? I use anti seize on my rims now.
ha ha ha yea once when my sisters ex b/f got a flat on his car. Finally had to call a tow truck company. Guy came with what looked like a big golf club with a rubber head and just wacked the rim till it came off.

1995 Wangler Sahara 4.0 5spd
Accurate power intake with K/N
Borla header
Flowmaster Super 40 minus cat
RE 4in
Xenon flares
SYE
Tom Wood driveshaft
33X12.5 BF mudders
8,000lb winch
KC Daylighters
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-10-2005, 09:02 PM
OlllllllO Jeep1
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Yeah I tried a baseball bat and everything else, finally I just loosend the lugs a little backed out of the driveway as i turned the wheels i slammed on the brakes and it popped right away. I didnt want to risk having anything that I was bashing against the back side of the tire hitting me in the head.
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