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The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Ruffstuff 3 Link Kit!The Ruffstuff Optima Battery Box!

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Unread 07-11-2010, 02:49 PM   #1
g4x4xgeoff
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Rebuild questions (8.8)

I got some questions about my 8.8 install

1) What is the ideal pinion angle I should be shooting for? I was originally going to just install it to what looked good, but I heard there's an ideal angle threshold I should meet.

2) I'm fitting in the shocks, and about to weld on the tabs on the axle, when I realized I may have a problem.

The spring when fully expanded, sinks well blow the leaf springs at full sag.
When fully contracted, the shock is still onyl about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up the axle tube.

where should I be mounting the tabs, and Shuold i get shorter shocks?

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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 07-11-2010, 03:24 PM   #2
bigred94
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i put mine in then put iit on wheels to the pinion angle i just tacked them first. and the shock mounts im using the explorer ubolts plates i havent had a problem yet
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1994 yj 4.0 5speed, soa 2inch springs,front aussie with tj shafts and 4.10s,8.8 with disc with lsd, on board air,35inch km2s, wj intake,63mm throttle body,costum 2.5 exhuast
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Unread 07-11-2010, 04:45 PM   #3
g4x4xgeoff
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Thats what I was planning to do, but I just wanted to make sure there wasn't any danger to doing this so long as the Ujoints don't bind up.
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 07-11-2010, 05:14 PM   #4
Joe Dillard
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Pinion angle is adjusted according to weather or not you are using an SYE, and a cv shaft, or if you are staying stock.

Look at the Tom Woods website for correct data under the tech info link.
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Unread 07-11-2010, 05:16 PM   #5
bigred94
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U doing the 410s and wat carrier you have.
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1994 yj 4.0 5speed, soa 2inch springs,front aussie with tj shafts and 4.10s,8.8 with disc with lsd, on board air,35inch km2s, wj intake,63mm throttle body,costum 2.5 exhuast
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Unread 07-11-2010, 05:25 PM   #6
g4x4xgeoff
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I have the stock carrier currently, but I'm upgrading the 3.55s in there to 4.56 (as soon as my wallet will allow)

Jeep won't be driven for a while, the most action it will see for the next few months is the occasional push out of the garage to clean up underneath, and push back in.
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 07-11-2010, 05:46 PM   #7
bigred94
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I just bougth another with l.s with 3.73s .but I wanna sell the gears and the housing. Just remeber use synthetic gear lube
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1994 yj 4.0 5speed, soa 2inch springs,front aussie with tj shafts and 4.10s,8.8 with disc with lsd, on board air,35inch km2s, wj intake,63mm throttle body,costum 2.5 exhuast
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Unread 07-11-2010, 05:53 PM   #8
g4x4xgeoff
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I got the mobil 1 synthetic sitting in the garage ready to go in.

will i be able to use the LS housing for 4.56? If so, let's work something out.
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 07-11-2010, 06:07 PM   #9
g4x4xgeoff
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any suggestions about what to do with the shocks?
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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[COLOR="Black"][CENTER][SIZE="4"][FONT="Showcard Gothic"][COLOR="Black"][URL="http://groups.jeepforum.com/Built_Not_Bought"][COLOR="Black"]Built Not Bought #435[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]
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Unread 07-11-2010, 06:22 PM   #10
notmyj
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If it were me, I'd keep the open carrier if you have any plans of putting an aussie or lock right or any other "lunchbox" locker. The LSD diff is only compatable with a specific lunchbox locker, made by lock right and is significantly more expensive than an equal unit for an open carrier. Plus, an LSD really is worth much as far as trail performance goes. Also, it should be noted that there is no carrier break for the 8.8, so if you decide to get an LSD, what ever gears you have will work.

As for the shock mounts, weld them to axle so that they do not hang below the tubes. Pointing up at a slight angle is preffered. After you get the mounts welded on, measure for shocks. Take measurements at full compression, ride height, and full extension. Then go to the shock manufactures web site for what ever shock you decide to run, and order the shock that is shorter than your measurements at full compression, and longer than your measurments for full extension. if this is not available, then get one that is a little bit longer then your measurments at full extension, and use bumpstops to prevent bottoming out your shocks at full compression. Don't go by the shocks that are listed by the amount of lift you have. Those charts are questionable at best.

As for pinion angle, it depends on what kind of drive shaft you have. If you have an SYE/CV shaft, then the pinion should be pointing at the output shaft of the t-case minus 1 or 2 degrees to promote move ment in the rear joint, thus spreading the grease in the caps and keeping the joint wearing evenly, and making up for any change in the pinion angle during accel and decel. If you are using the stock drive shaft, which depending on the amount of lift you have, may or may not be a wise decision, the pinion angle should be as close to parallel to out put shaft as possible, with out causing any binding. If you have binding, it would be reccomended that you get an SYE/CV shaft. There are bandaides such as T-case lowering kits, but they are a contradiction to the point of a lift kit. Think about it, you put 3.5" lift springs under the jeep, just go ahead and drop the T-case 1" netting you a lift of 2.5" under the skid. Pointless, in my humble opinion.
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If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 07-11-2010, 06:27 PM   #11
g4x4xgeoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmyj View Post
If it were me, I'd keep the open carrier if you have any plans of putting an aussie or lock right or any other "lunchbox" locker. The LSD diff is only compatable with a specific lunchbox locker, made by lock right and is significantly more expensive than an equal unit for an open carrier. Plus, an LSD really is worth much as far as trail performance goes. Also, it should be noted that there is no carrier break for the 8.8, so if you decide to get an LSD, what ever gears you have will work.

As for the shock mounts, weld them to axle so that they do not hang below the tubes. Pointing up at a slight angle is preffered. After you get the mounts welded on, measure for shocks. Take measurements at full compression, ride height, and full extension. Then go to the shock manufactures web site for what ever shock you decide to run, and order the shock that is shorter than your measurements at full compression, and longer than your measurments for full extension. if this is not available, then get one that is a little bit longer then your measurments at full extension, and use bumpstops to prevent bottoming out your shocks at full compression. Don't go by the shocks that are listed by the amount of lift you have. Those charts are questionable at best.

As for pinion angle, it depends on what kind of drive shaft you have. If you have an SYE/CV shaft, then the pinion should be pointing at the output shaft of the t-case minus 1 or 2 degrees to promote move ment in the rear joint, thus spreading the grease in the caps and keeping the joint wearing evenly, and making up for any change in the pinion angle during accel and decel. If you are using the stock drive shaft, which depending on the amount of lift you have, may or may not be a wise decision, the pinion angle should be as close to parallel to out put shaft as possible, with out causing any binding. If you have binding, it would be reccomended that you get an SYE/CV shaft. There are bandaides such as T-case lowering kits, but they are a contradiction to the point of a lift kit. Think about it, you put 3.5" lift springs under the jeep, just go ahead and drop the T-case 1" netting you a lift of 2.5" under the skid. Pointless, in my humble opinion.

Wow, notmyj, excellent information there.

Thank you for confirming my thoughts regarding the shocks. I had a feeling that I would just weld them at say...70 degrees from the ground (pointing upwards slightly towards the upper shock mounts) and then just buy shocks accordingly from that.

As for the pinion, I'm at a stock drive shaft, and might go to a CV if I bind up. If I do, I'll just cut out the perches and readjust as needed when the CV/SYE arrives.

thanks for your help guys I really appreciate it.
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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Unread 07-11-2010, 06:37 PM   #12
bigred94
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I put it in mine all I have now is the is the whole axle spare shafts an the gears
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1994 yj 4.0 5speed, soa 2inch springs,front aussie with tj shafts and 4.10s,8.8 with disc with lsd, on board air,35inch km2s, wj intake,63mm throttle body,costum 2.5 exhuast
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Unread 07-13-2010, 04:56 AM   #13
g4x4xgeoff
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now, the shaft tubes on the 8.8 are thicker than the d35, which as i read, adds lift to SOA and subtracts lift on SUA by i believe 3/8"

Doesn't seem like much, but is it noticeable guys? what have you used to gain back that 3/8"?

I thought about making a 3/8" lift block, but I read hwo they're not a good idea, but something this small can't be that bad, then again, it may be useless if the 3/8" isnt noticeable
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/groups/ri-jeeps/[/url]

[COLOR="Black"][CENTER][SIZE="4"][FONT="Showcard Gothic"][COLOR="Black"][URL="http://groups.jeepforum.com/Built_Not_Bought"][COLOR="Black"]Built Not Bought #435[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]
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Unread 07-13-2010, 10:51 AM   #14
notmyj
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If your SUA, a lift block will lower the jeep. Mose people dont worry about it, but if its bad enough that you can see it, put a longer set of shackles on the rear.
__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 07-13-2010, 05:58 PM   #15
g4x4xgeoff
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You are right, it didnt occur to me that its a lowering block if SUA, lift block if SOA.

Okay, sounds good. thanks!
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[QUOTE=Hurley91;11462515]I could be drunk, high, raped and almost dead.... and I could still recognize it.[/QUOTE]


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[COLOR="Black"][CENTER][SIZE="4"][FONT="Showcard Gothic"][COLOR="Black"][URL="http://groups.jeepforum.com/Built_Not_Bought"][COLOR="Black"]Built Not Bought #435[/COLOR][/URL][/FONT][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER][/COLOR]
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