Rear shackles hindering full flex. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
Bailey_S1007
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Rear shackles hindering full flex.

So I recently replaced everything from the frame down on my jeep and my front end has pretty much no issues so far but the rear is getting its full flex all the way and because of that I can't measure for what size shocks I need.

So I'm on a 4.5 RE lift with 35" coopers and my rear shackles are Currie boomerang rear shackles. This is what's happening.

So I don't really want to notch anything I'd rather get longer shackles. To fix the problem. But I don't want lift shackles. So let me know what you guys think.


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post #2 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 07:43 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Would flipping them around and loosing the center brace make any difference?

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #3 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 07:44 PM Thread Starter
Bailey_S1007
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Uhhhh maybe but the center brace is there so it stops spring inversion.


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post #4 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Would flipping them around and loosing the center brace make any difference?
I don't think that would help for the rear. The bend needs to be at the frame so it can "wrap" around. At this point the spring is maxed out on flattening because it's hitting the bottom of the cross member.

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Uhhhh maybe but the center brace is there so it stops spring inversion.


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That's what I would do for the front. I've never seen rear springs invert.

To the OP. I guess you could get slightly longer shackles but you'll ultimately have them hitting the cross member under full compression. You could relocated the upper rear shackle mount similar to a CJ but you'll need to get leafs with less lift. You can also relocate your rear springs further back and put shackles mounts on the rear cross member/bumper.

The one pic is for 3/4 elliptical but you should get the point.
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post #5 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 08:09 PM
paulhead
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this is what I did on another jeep, ignore the upside down shackle


94 4.0, D30 , Yukon (Warn) hubs Lock-Right, 8.8 locked Grizzly, 4.10's, 35"MTR's, Barnes 2" belly, Smitty winch, 44044's front, 4" Zone's rear

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post #6 of 25 Old 04-10-2016, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
Bailey_S1007
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So I don't know if I want to do that much fab work I'd rather find a shackle that'll extend all the way that will swing under the bumper.


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post #7 of 25 Old 04-11-2016, 09:13 AM
Randonexplosion
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Longer shackle is about your only practical solution. You will get more lift though... Also, what is the 1/4" plate under the crossmember?


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post #8 of 25 Old 04-11-2016, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
Bailey_S1007
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Rear shackles hindering full flex.

A longer boomerang style shackle correct?
Only picture I have but the PO fabed up a hitch lol I'd never use it to tow anything but it makes for a good recovery point.


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post #9 of 25 Old 04-12-2016, 11:41 AM
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The longer shackle will allow the spring to compress more but they may still hit the crossmember under heavy compression. The shackle plates themselves that is. They can only pivot as far as the cross member will allow.

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post #10 of 25 Old 04-13-2016, 07:41 AM
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could you cut notches in the crossmember... for the shackle plate sides to slip through?

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post #11 of 25 Old 04-13-2016, 09:45 AM
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You're at the point I was when I decided to go SOA. It's more work than swapping shackles, but it does eliminate the problem. The flatter SOA springs don't cause nearly as much shackle length change as the highly arched taller SUA springs.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #12 of 25 Old 04-13-2016, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailey_S1007 View Post
Uhhhh maybe but the center brace is there so it stops spring inversion.


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Not sure how you would get spring inversion in the rear unless it happens while in reverse. People run boomerangs in various configurations to get the right setup for their application

-DJC
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post #13 of 25 Old 04-13-2016, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon
You're at the point I was when I decided to go SOA. It's more work than swapping shackles, but it does eliminate the problem. The flatter SOA springs don't cause nearly as much shackle length change as the highly arched taller SUA springs.
This is where I'm at as well. My front is SOA and I have the springs for the rear. I just need perches and shock mounts and a free weekend.

Lou

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post #14 of 25 Old 04-13-2016, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
Bailey_S1007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
You're at the point I was when I decided to go SOA. It's more work than swapping shackles, but it does eliminate the problem. The flatter SOA springs don't cause nearly as much shackle length change as the highly arched taller SUA springs.


I don't want to go soa just yet I just put all this new stuff on lol. It hasn't even been on a real trip yet just a couple rocks and dirt roads to find the kinks. Just this link I can't seem to figure out unless I do some interesting fab lol
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post #15 of 25 Old 04-14-2016, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bailey_S1007 View Post
I don't want to go soa just yet I just put all this new stuff on lol. It hasn't even been on a real trip yet just a couple rocks and dirt roads to find the kinks. Just this link I can't seem to figure out unless I do some interesting fab lol
Then, there is no magic 'Oh, buy this part.' fix. You're just going to have to work the problem through. The question was asked above, whats that 1/4" flat plate it's hitting? Maybe that can go and would help. Maybe just live with it as is by adding a proper bump stop to make that the limit, so you don't force the spring more. A fabbed longer shackle would be my last choice.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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