[ErikJordan]

click the picture for full size.


ok, here is what i am up against. i want to get more swing out of my rear shackles. with the re 4.5" springs, which are quite longer than the previous springs... there is a problem with the shackles really limiting flex.
it really limits the compression of the spring. with the boomerang shackles on there, it hits right on the frame exactly where the bolt hole is. [take a look at yours]
it seems that if i switch back to straight shackles, i will then be hitting the shackle to the cross member. [still no good]
i have lots of room for compression, with the long shocks in the rear, and this shackle bind is my limiting factor.
i am looking for some inventive ways of fixing this problem.
i was thinking of welding a sleve below the frame to achive room for full shackle swing. the only problem with this is i really dont want to lift the jeep much more.
on the same token, i could do a shackle reversal system on the front of the jeep, and drop the rear shackles to the underside of the frame. this would bring the whole jeep up about 1.5"
at least it would be even [or close to it]
but.... again, i really like the low center of gravity. besides.... it is going to cost like 400 bucks to do it that way.. or more. the driveshaft, srs parts....
hmm?
any opinions or suggestions on this matter?

[NaeKid]

I have the exact same problem with my stock straight-shackles. I was planning on making a set of boomerang shackles to try to fix the problem ..

Maybe instead of making an "elbow" style, I could try a C-shackle to see if it will clear my cross-member and bumper ..

I too would love to figure out how to gain a little more flex without smackin' down on the cross-member.

[ErikJordan]

well, i got a reply on another jeep board that sounds like a great way to go. i am still open for more suggestions, but i will share this one in the mean time.
it was suggested to cut a piece of pipe in half so it is like a "C".
cut the part of the frame that is in the way, out in the same "c" shape, and weld it in there.
sounds like a pretty easy fix.
a bit of the cross member will be cut, but i'm sure it could easily be reinforced to keep its integrity without adding too much weight.
this idea is courtesy of "mr blaine"

[sentinal02]

what piece is bottoming out? the spring, the side plates of the shackle or the shackle support bolt? on my straight shackle the support bolts bottom out long before anything else. if that's the case, a deeper bend on the elbow or a more curved C style like Naekid mentioned would take care of it. if it's the spring, you'll need more lift and a deeper curve to push the eye of the shackle out past the end of the frame. the extra curvature will help clear the cross member flange there. It will only work if the spring is long enough when compressed to push the eye out far enough though. try making cutouts in cardboard to get the swing you want. you can take the measurement of the main leaf with a string and then tie the string to the main eye bolt to simulate the leaf at full compression (the time it will be the longest) so you know where the shackle eye will end up. then just make your cut out to fit the frame bolt, clear the obstructions and hit the end of the string for the eye bolt. modding the freame might be the best way to go though if you want to keep your height down.

Naekid, if you're going to try a deep curve to move the support bolt away from the frame more, you might think about boxing in the leaf side of the shackle around the curve depending on what thickness you use for the plates. the eye bolts will want to act like a pair of clippers, using the outer curve for a fulcrum point. the forces will want to crush the metal at the inner corner of the elbow so you'll need some way of beefing that area up, either by welding in a box or beefing up the side plates.

[ErikJordan]

well, i am tearing into it. here are some progress pics. i will do a write up on exactly what i did, and wether or not it did what i wanted it to do. the rear cross member will be beefed up in the process.
LINK TO PROGRESSS PICS

[ErikJordan]

ok, here it is. the fiinished product.
i wound up beefing up the whole cross member with some 3/16" plate all the way across, and on top. this will make the bumper a bit more stable.
i cut the bottom 1.25" of the frame away about 2.25" deep. [toward the shackle]
i boxed the end of the frame for more rigidity, and strength. the new cross member parts are all welded to the frame, and the existing cross member.

i took the jeep to the only place i know that i can flex it out around here and took some pictures.

when completely compressed to the bump stop, the shackle is about 1/2" into the frame.
so.. the mod was a success.
here are some pictures.
before

after


here are a few flex shots.




click the pictures for a larger image.
feedback is always welcome.
the rest of the pictures are HERE

[yjdevin]

Originally Posted by ErikJordan

ok, here it is. the fiinished product.
i wound up beefing up the whole cross member with some 3/16" plate all the way across, and on top. this will make the bumper a bit more stable.
i cut the bottom 1.25" of the frame away about 2.25" deep. [toward the shackle]
i boxed the end of the frame for more rigidity, and strength. the new cross member parts are all welded to the frame, and the existing cross member.

i took the jeep to the only place i know that i can flex it out around here and took some pictures.

when completely compressed to the bump stop, the shackle is about 1/2" into the frame.
so.. the mod was a success.
here are some pictures.
before

after


here are a few flex shots.




click the pictures for a larger image.
feedback is always welcome.
the rest of the pictures are HERE

hey i can't see any of the pictures, i was wondering if you could send them to me? i am having a similar problem and i am in need of some ideas?

[ErikJordan]

I'll have to look through my stuff and see if I can find them.

[yjdevin]

thank ya dude!