Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: The southern armpit of California
I know #3 isn't necessary, hence why I said it was optional. It's just a matter of preference if you want to get dripped on by oil or not.
Regarding step #5 - I don't think I expressed myself clearly (I'll go back and clarify it).
Loosening additional bearing caps will droop the crankshaft a little and help relieve pressure on the seal, making it easier to break the seal loose and extract it. It certainly helped for me. Prior to loosening the caps I fought with the RMS for over half an hour and only managed to drive the metal core from one side to the other - the rubber seal held fast to the engine block - didn't matter that the brass rod I was using as a punch covered both the rod and nearly all the seal. So, following advice I came across elsewhere I loosened the bearing caps gradually to let the crankshaft droop some then tried punching out the seal. Moved a couple of millimeters, but still really tight and stubborn, so I loosed another cap to let the crankshaft droop some more and tried again. A little more movement, and just a little easier, but still really tight. With enough crankshaft droop the seal came out very easy-peasy.
While it is certainly doable without messing with the other bearing caps to droop the crankshaft (after all, standard procedure only has you remove the rear main cap), it is likely going to be less of a struggle with the seal if you do allow the crankshaft to droop some and get pressure off the seal.