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Unread 12-11-2012, 05:34 PM   #1
squishy
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rear frame fixes and eff ups

so ive got the cancer. that is the cancer of the rear frame, shackle location.
i have the option to buy/make patch plates but i was wondering if anyone has mounted the shackle using something like a cjs shackle perch under the frame??
Ive got an idea to fit box tube around the frame to some good metal, plug weld, and use some cj hangers. ill have to shorten my shackles or just move em forward to get some angle back into em. (maybe both IDK)

then what if i used the box to "stretch" my frame just to move the gas tank back like 3-4" so my rear stops bangin into it during hard flex??? this way i can move my axle another inch back and get this diff cover ive been eyedrooling, my d-line is long enough for that much, and my plates/perches are already drilled for it too.

i think i just talked myself into it
just wondering if anyone has any input on the matter.

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Unread 12-11-2012, 05:38 PM   #2
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Bump.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:14 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squishy
Bump.
Bump.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 10:21 AM   #4
jbolty
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If I had to fix the rear frame I would definately take the opportunity to stretch it a little. Personally, I just need an inch or two to make some room between the gas tank and diff cover.

Seems like the shackle under the frame would make too much lift or the shackle plates would have to be too short to move. But, you could certainly lower the frame mount a little for a free extra inch of lift.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 11:25 AM   #5
squishy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty
If I had to fix the rear frame I would definately take the opportunity to stretch it a little. Personally, I just need an inch or two to make some room between the gas tank and diff cover.

Seems like the shackle under the frame would make too much lift or the shackle plates would have to be too short to move. But, you could certainly lower the frame mount a little for a free extra inch of lift.
Ya I only need an inch or so. But I'm getting a new diff cover for the 8.8 and would like it to up the fluid capacity. Hence the need for more room. :-).
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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:37 PM   #6
sjsst41
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I used stainless steel plate to patch the rear section on my YJ - used a hole saw to cut the thruhole in for the spring shackle mount - I like the thru frame mounts over the CJ mounts, much more stout going thru the frame (I've torn the CJ hangers off the frame in the past wheeling, both on the front and rear) since they are bolted on.

Would you weld on a hanger, or install threaded nuts and bolt them on? I bet they'd give you 3" of lift if you stay with the same shackle and move the hanger mount under the frame.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:45 PM   #7
squishy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjsst41
I used stainless steel plate to patch the rear section on my YJ - used a hole saw to cut the thruhole in for the spring shackle mount - I like the thru frame mounts over the CJ mounts, much more stout going thru the frame (I've torn the CJ hangers off the frame in the past wheeling, both on the front and rear) since they are bolted on.

Would you weld on a hanger, or install threaded nuts and bolt them on? I bet they'd give you 3" of lift if you stay with the same shackle and move the hanger mount under the frame.
I would weld it on using c channel with the 2.5 in wide (whatever ID the bushing is) pipe to the c channel. Make sense? And I don't really want more lift as of now.
I just ordered some reinforcement plates from eBay ill get those and see how I like em.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 02:54 PM   #8
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I like your idea to move the spring hangers forward to add more angle, and take some of the overall height off the setup.

The PITA is cleaning up all the "cancer" areas to make sure you have a good surface to weld to - I'll assume you have a decent MIG setup - I have a basic Lincoln Weldpac using CO2/Argon gas mix, and it works really well with these type of repairs.
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Unread 12-15-2012, 03:03 PM   #9
squishy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sjsst41
I like your idea to move the spring hangers forward to add more angle, and take some of the overall height off the setup.

The PITA is cleaning up all the "cancer" areas to make sure you have a good surface to weld to - I'll assume you have a decent MIG setup - I have a basic Lincoln Weldpac using CO2/Argon gas mix, and it works really well with these type of repairs.
I wish I had a nice MIG. I've got an old Lincoln arc welder but I rent a miller 140 using flux core. Works great. I can practically draw whatever I want with great penetration and strength.
My next purchase (wish I didn't have to fix the frame so I could just buy the dang thing already) is a decent MIG. Lincoln or miller.
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Unread 12-16-2012, 11:41 AM   #10
rjbruzan
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I have done a similar repair before. I used 2x4 1/4 wall box tubing. I split the tubing in half to get a piece 2x2 1/4 thick with an open top. On the last one I fixed this was enough metal to fix it. If you opened the first 6-10 inches and left the rest intact. Then made a new rear cross member of the same material. Strechted or stock with the spring hangers under the frame for a bit of free lift sounds good. It will change the pinion angle possibly causing vibrations.

Ron
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Unread 12-30-2012, 10:41 PM   #11
squishy
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so i welded up the frame with the plates i ordered offline. they look great but their kinda thin. i want to say they are 3/16". but i welded em in anyways time will tell what kind of penetration i got but its on the road again. im still gunna look around for some 2x4x1/4" cause ive got the idea in my head to stretch and use the box steel to create a rear bumper
will post pics from my phone in a min
image-2782780902.jpg   image-3221610488.jpg   image-3871828238.jpg   image-3398951875.jpg   image-3356377308.jpg  

image-2870466918.jpg   image-2606273416.jpg   image-1065573511.jpg  
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Unread 12-30-2012, 10:45 PM   #12
squishy
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sorry for the massive pics.....stupid phone
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