Rear drum brake overheating after new shoes, hardware >>> - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
beady
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Jeepster, I've already started soaking the hardline inlet threads and bolts on the wheel cylinder with PB Blaster. Just in case that's teh route I have to end up taking.

I adjusted the parking brake last night. It had been set so locked down on the first click or so. I put in about 3/8" or more of slack at the "saddle" where the one line splits into the two going to the rear wheels. There is enough slack that I can pull down on the parking brake cable maybe a couple inches before it takes the slack out and seats the shoes on the drums. The brake now engages on the 5 click or so. I'm 99%+ certain that the parking brake is not binding. Maybe I'll just slacken the parking brake cable all the way; to the point where I have no parking brake at all, even when the pedal is fully depressed. That would surely rule it out as the culprit.

My first course of action today after work is going to be to go look for new return springs and shoe retaining pins. If those don't solve the problem, I will swap shoes side-to-side and see if the problem moves. After that I'm not sure what to do.... buy some better quality shoes and hope they have tighter tolerances?

I suppose I could use my Dremel to increase the depth of the "slots" on the endof the star adjuster where it sits on the shoes. That would in effect give me more "negative" adjustment to back teh shoes farther away from teh drum.....

Wish me luck,

Mike


'88 YJ, Nuttered, Ford ignition upgrade, 1.5" Rough Country lift, Pro Comp 1079 15x8 wheels w/ M/T's, Supertrapp muffler
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post #17 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 12:31 PM
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If the parking brake cable is binding in the outer .. then no amount of slack at the e-brake pedal is going to allow the brake to release.
I would get the wheel in the air and apply and then release the e-brake .. to see if the wheel is free when off .. if it seems to bind then that is your problem.
I wouldn't dick around trying to modify anything .. something is obviously wrong somewhere in the braking mechanism.

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post #18 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 12:35 PM
dos0711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88Jeepster
Don't do that .. just replace the wheel cylinder with a new one, and use plenty of WD-40 around the hard line and nut .. and back it out slowly .. pissing around with rebuilding like this is just asking for trouble with leaks later on.
Wow. I must be super duper lucky then. No leaks on any of the ones I've done. It's not rocket science ya know....

2000 Wrangler TJ, 4.0 6 cyl, A/T, G2 Dana 44s, ARB Lockers, 4.10 ratio
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post #19 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dos0711
Wow. I must be super duper lucky then. No leaks on any of the ones I've done. It's not rocket science ya know....
I guess so .. but have you looked inside the dust boots lately to see if they're damp with brake fluid ??

But what are you saving ?? a couple of bucks .. wheel cylinders aren't expensive.
To have put that amount of time and effort into a job and have it leak is plain crazy IMHO.

After removing all the hardware to get to the wheel cylinders (same amount of work in both scenarios) I'm left with two choices ..

1) .. I can remove the dust boots and find either rust or brake fluid. So now I'm going to remove the pistons and clean out the bores with emery or wet&dry .. I have to then clean out the debris (all that fine metal paste), fit new seals and replace rubber boots .. then reassemble and bleed (I have to do that in scenario 2 anyway).
And I'm doing this all in place on the backplate, under the vehicle .. both sides.
What if I find them so scored or pitted .. am I then going to go to the store and buy new ones, leaving the job in pieces while I do that ??

2) .. Or, I remove the old w/cs and replace with new unworn ones that I've already bought.

It might not be rocket science .. but it's common sense. It's not cost effective.

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post #20 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Jeepster, last night I had the left rear wheel in the air and was applying the parking brake, and releasing it, etc. There appears to be no drag at all. That's part of what is so baffling, when the wheel is off the ground, there doesn't feel to be any resistance at all. I can even rotate the tire using only my pinky, easily. Yet once it is driving it binds enough to generate heat......

I will stop at Autozone and see if they have release springs on the way home from work in a little bit. I figure that's cheap enough, and good insurance in any case.

Thanks,

Mike

'88 YJ, Nuttered, Ford ignition upgrade, 1.5" Rough Country lift, Pro Comp 1079 15x8 wheels w/ M/T's, Supertrapp muffler
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post #21 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
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Here's a wild idea.......

Any way it could be a bad wheel bearing instead of dragging brakes?

How would I go about diagnosing that? The Jeeps is so noisey I don't think I could hear it grinding, and I can't feel it.

Mike

'88 YJ, Nuttered, Ford ignition upgrade, 1.5" Rough Country lift, Pro Comp 1079 15x8 wheels w/ M/T's, Supertrapp muffler
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post #22 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beady
Jeepster, last night I had the left rear wheel in the air and was applying the parking brake, and releasing it, etc. There appears to be no drag at all. That's part of what is so baffling, when the wheel is off the ground, there doesn't feel to be any resistance at all. I can even rotate the tire using only my pinky, easily. Yet once it is driving it binds enough to generate heat......

I will stop at Autozone and see if they have release springs on the way home from work in a little bit. I figure that's cheap enough, and good insurance in any case.

Thanks,

Mike
you'd know putting it back together if you had weak springs .. it would be very noticable.
Run it down the road (or for however long it takes to get hot) .. jack it up and spin the wheel .. does it seem like it's binding when hot ??

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post #23 of 24 Old 11-14-2005, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
beady
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"By Jove, I think he's got it!"

Hot damn, I think it may be fixed! I stopped and got new return springs, adjuster spring, retaining springs, retaining clips and retaining pics on teh way home from Autozone (like $7 or something for it all). Pulled off the drum and put all the above on the affected side, left the star adjuster at zero adjust(full in), put it back together and took it for a test drive. After a couple miles at 60 mph I pulled over and the left rear drum was COOL!!!!! The right drum has a hint or warmth to it, but I think I'll leave it alone until I get it inspected at least. The kit came with all the springs, etc for both sides.

So, I don't know if it was the new retaining pins (old ones were bent a hair), stronger return springs, just being taken apart again, or some combination of the above.

Many, MANY thanks to those who have helped and offered encouragement.

I'll let you know if the drum stays cool.....

Mike

'88 YJ, Nuttered, Ford ignition upgrade, 1.5" Rough Country lift, Pro Comp 1079 15x8 wheels w/ M/T's, Supertrapp muffler
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post #24 of 24 Old 05-01-2011, 12:10 PM
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old old old thread but did it stay cool? jeep is probably long gone now!
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