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Unread 11-13-2005, 03:45 PM   #1
beady
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Rear drum brake overheating after new shoes, hardware >>>

I put new shoes and a new hardware kit (adjusters, adjuster cables, adjuster guide) on the rear of my Jeep last week. At first the brakes were horrible; lots of travel, no pedal feel and barely any stopping power. Did some research and found that the rear brakes were probably not adjusted properly. Yesterday when I pulled the left rear drum off, the star adjuster was sitting on the bottom of the drum and just fell out. So, yeah, they weren't adjusted properly, lol.

I put the brakes back together properly, and with the front wheels chocked, the parking brake off, and the left rear wheel in the air I used a small screwdriver to adjust the star adjuster. I rocked the wheel back and forth as I ran the star adjuster out until there was a slight drag. I got in the Jeep and pressed the brakes hard to recenter the pads and checked them again. It seemed fine, and it didn't need any more adjusting. The wheel had just a touch of drag, but rotated pretty freely. I ran the adjuster out maybe 1/4" or more.

Then I adjusted the right rear, but it didn't really need much at all. Sort of odd?

I drove the Jeep about 5 miles earlier, and when I got out of it, I could smell burning from the left rear brake drum. Sure enough, it was running very hot. Much, much hotter then the right. I just checked the wheels and jacked it up. With the parking brake off, the left rear wheel still rotates with barely any resistance.

So, why is it running so hot? It doesn't seem to be adjusted out too far so that it causes a lot of drag......

Any ideas? I need to be able to drive to work tomorrow.

Thanks,

Mike

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Unread 11-13-2005, 04:10 PM   #2
jeffy
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If they're dragging then back then off an even amount. Then back up and apply the brakes semi-hard. This is how the adjusters self-adjust. If they are working properly, the brakes should adjust themselves.

You might also want to readjust the e-brake while you're at it.
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Unread 11-13-2005, 04:12 PM   #3
beady
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The parking brake seems to work well.

How does the parking brake fit into the scheme of things with the rear drums/adjustment? It has the cable running to the lever arm in the drum, but how does the parking brake adjustment affect dargging of the main shoes?

Thanks for the help,

Mike
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Unread 11-13-2005, 04:47 PM   #4
beady
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Well, I backed the adjuster off several clicks, braked in reverse several times to set the adjustment, and took it for a spin.

The left rear is still dragging and overheating.

Any suggestions?

Mike
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Unread 11-13-2005, 05:36 PM   #5
pyro9862
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Just look at it every carefully it's most likely some little thing, take that brake apart and reasseble to be sure it only takes five minutes.

Other than that I want to say maybie the slave is sticking out or the springs are shot and not returning but their is no drag when you jack it up.
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Unread 11-13-2005, 06:39 PM   #6
Burnunit22
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I just did my rears and had a very similar problem. After pulling them apart 3 or 4 times I discovered that one of the pistons in the driver's side wheel cylinder was seizing up. I picked up new wheel cylinders at Autozone for about $10 each and problem solved! A little tip....spray the hell out of the 2 bolts holding these things in place with liquid wrench or similar product an hour or two before hand.
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Unread 11-13-2005, 07:11 PM   #7
pyro9862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burnunit22
spray the hell out of the 2 bolts holding these things in place with liquid wrench or similar product an hour or two before hand.
Why bother, if the bolt breaks it breaks in the wheel cylinder you don't need anymore. Just make sure you have extras.
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Unread 11-13-2005, 07:13 PM   #8
beady
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Hey Burnunit22, you may be on to something. I just tried driving it after putting more slack into teh parking brake three times in a row. There is so much slack in teh cable(I can pull it a long way by hand) that I am 99.9% sure that is not the issue. I adjusted the star adjuster on the driver's side several different times, and that reduced the heating problem, but did not solve it.

I just pulled the drum off to have a look inside again and see if I could see anything odd. It looks like only the trailing shoe is wearing, and the leading shoe is not wearing at all. It still feels "rough" and new.

When I press the brake with the drum off, the leading(front) shoe moves out, while the rear shoe doesn't move too much. The front shoe gets pushed totally off the top pivot pin. Both pistons of the wheel cylinder move outward, however.

I had actually purchased two rebuilt wheel cylinders in case they were crappy when I got in there, but I just returned them today, lol. I'm afraid that the hard line will break if I try to remove it......

Any more ideas?

Thanks,

Mike
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Unread 11-13-2005, 09:22 PM   #9
beady
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I pulled everything off the hub and put it all back from scratch. The shoe retaining pics are a little bent, so I swapped them. I pulled teh boots and pins out of teh wheel cylinder and inspected it closely. It seems fine, both sides move easily, and there is no corrosion to speak of. Ran the star adjuster all the way in and reassembled the brakes.

Drove forward and stopped several times, then backwards and stopped several times. Engaged and disengaged the parking brake several times.

Drove about a mile around the neighborhood at 30 mph or so and felt the drum. It wasn't hot! Took the Jeep out to a 55 mph road and drove a mile or so at 55, maybe 3 miles total. Drum was warmer than the other side, but not screaming hot. Took it back onto the 55 road and drove about 4 miles. Checked drum. It was pretty hot. Not hot enough to burn your finger, but too hot to keep your finger on. The other side is very slightly warm. Drove the same distance back down the 55 road and to my house, and drum was still about as hot as it was.

When doing my testing, I am NOT using the brakes AT ALL. I just downshift and engine brake until idle in first, and coast to a stop. All heat in the drum is from dragging, none from braking. The front rotors are cool to the touch.

I'll have to bum a ride to work tomorrow :-(

Please throw out any ideas. If the parts stores have new springs and retaining pins I will get them tomorrow and see if that helps. I PB Blastered the hard line inlet on the wheel cylinder; changing that is my last resort.

Mike
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Unread 11-14-2005, 06:02 AM   #10
pyro9862
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I'm kind of lost it may not be the springs if you didn't touch the brakes their is no reason they should be out in the first place. It did take some effort to get them on right?
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Unread 11-14-2005, 06:07 AM   #11
dos0711
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Take the wheel cylinder apart ON the vehicle. Emory cloth the bore, clean it out with brake clean and put new rubbers in it.
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Unread 11-14-2005, 06:14 AM   #12
beady
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pyro, yes, it did take some effort with my Vice Grips to stretch the springs enough to get them over the pivot pin. I've read that over time, heat and being used can weaken the return springs so that they don't fully pull the shoes back. If they aren't that expensive, I am more than willing to replace them to see if it helps.

dos0711, if I pull the pistons out, how hard will it be for me to rebleed the cylinder on my own? S.O. is out of town tonight, so I won't have a helper to pump the brakes while I bleed. I don't know if the tube in a bottle of fluid trick will work well enough to get that much ait out?

Thanks very much for the comments,

Mike
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Unread 11-14-2005, 06:19 AM   #13
dos0711
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beady
I don't know if the tube in a bottle of fluid trick will work well enough to get that much ait out?

Thanks very much for the comments,

Mike

It worked for me. But make sure you don't use the brake fluid in the
bottle once you do that cause it could be contaminated. You shouldn't
have a problem.

Oh yeah, make sure you pump slowly and keep an eye on the level
in the master cylinder. The rear resevour(?) is pretty small.
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Unread 11-14-2005, 08:53 AM   #14
pyro9862
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I never did get the tube in a bottle to work.
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Unread 11-14-2005, 11:06 AM   #15
Wif
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dos0711
Take the wheel cylinder apart ON the vehicle. Emory cloth the bore, clean it out with brake clean and put new rubbers in it.
Don't do that .. just replace the wheel cylinder with a new one, and use plenty of WD-40 around the hard line and nut .. and back it out slowly .. pissing around with rebuilding like this is just asking for trouble with leaks later on.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffy
If they're dragging then back then off an even amount. Then back up and apply the brakes semi-hard. This is how the adjusters self-adjust. If they are working properly, the brakes should adjust themselves.

You might also want to readjust the e-brake while you're at it.
Now they don't .. the action of applying the e-brake is how the brakes self adjust .. but it seldom works as it should.

Quote:
Originally Posted by beady
The parking brake seems to work well.

How does the parking brake fit into the scheme of things with the rear drums/adjustment? It has the cable running to the lever arm in the drum, but how does the parking brake adjustment affect dargging of the main shoes?

Thanks for the help,

Mike
Mike .. see my answer above .. if you remember .. there is a lever on one of the shoes .. this is what activates the self adjusted wheel at the bottom.

I would look for a sticky e-brake cable going to the affected wheel .. maybe it's siezing and dragging the e-brake shoe.
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