Rear driveshaft issues - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 10:53 AM Thread Starter
RG_Jeep
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1993 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Rear driveshaft issues

I just finished a clutch job (flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing). While I was under there with the drive shafts off, I figured I would be pro-active and replace all the U-Joints.

Problem one, (rear shaft) I pressed in all the new joints fine, then went to bolt the rear shaft to the diff, and the U-joint didn't fill up the space between the clips on the diff yoke. It is as though I needed an asymmetrical U-joint that measures 3 1/4 inches in one direction to fit the drive shaft, and 3 5/8 inches the other way! This really baffled me. Did I hang on the the original joints after pressing them out? No. Upon the advice of one parts person I placed two O-rings between the joint and the cup, making it wider in one direction to fit into the diff yoke. I know this isn't right, but at this point I was anxious to test the new clutch.
Problem two. I went out for a test ride, the clutch worked GREAT! But, when I get up to about 30 mph, I get a bad vibration in the seat of the pants (apparently the drive shaft). uh oh. Did I get it in properly? Did my Jerry-rigging cause it to be out of balance?

Got any clues? I feel as though if I had simply left the shafts alone, I would be merrily driving my Jeep today argh.

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post #2 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
RG_Jeep
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Make that a 1993 YJ, I make a mistake on my profile
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 12:23 PM
Louie4
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I know some '94 and '95 models used the 1330 u-joint. It is possible that someone put a later model D35 or yoke on yours. I know there is a u-joint for that application because a lot of guys run into that when they swap in an 8.8. It has a flange that accepts the 1330 but their driveshafts are made for 1310.

Some reference material:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/13...t-part-618095/

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post #4 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
RG_Jeep
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Thanks brother, looks like I'll get a spicer 5-134X ordered
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 03:23 PM
kahanabob
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Guess this falls into the category " if it ain't broke don't fix it"
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-28-2013, 04:59 PM
kbson
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Sounds similar to the issue I just went through. I ended up replacing the rear yoke.

You can see my thread here
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-29-2013, 11:26 AM
bogleparsons
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who ever told you to use 2 extra o-rings, should be added to the list of people you dont take advice from.

If it's not supposed to move and does use duct tape.
If it's supposed to move and doesn't use WD40
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-29-2013, 12:57 PM
Tarpo
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You need a step joint. Almost every auto parts store sells them.

88 yj. 95 4.0 4 Brl carb, Msd ignition, offenhouser intake, headers. Ford 8.8 rear end, sun fire seats. About to install a newer ax 15 to replace my tired ba10.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-29-2013, 01:11 PM
Tarpo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RG_Jeep
Thanks brother, looks like I'll get a spicer 5-134X ordered
Oops, didn't see this, you should be set..

88 yj. 95 4.0 4 Brl carb, Msd ignition, offenhouser intake, headers. Ford 8.8 rear end, sun fire seats. About to install a newer ax 15 to replace my tired ba10.
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-30-2013, 01:03 AM
mike_breaker_5
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i would have to agree that the o-ring idea should not be in your bag of tricks. i was running an offset u-joint in the rear before the d60's went under. i had a bunged up rear pinion angle and the axle was ready to explode at any second and i barely had any vibes.

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post #11 of 11 Old 05-01-2013, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
RG_Jeep
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Concur on the idiot that recommended the O-rings! I knew it wasn't the thing to do, but was desperate for short-term. I FINALLY found a NAPA store with a parts guy that is smart and he took care of me. I'm roll'n and smile'n.
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