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Unread 10-28-2013, 01:16 PM   #1
fireguyl9
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rear axle leak

Whenever I park at a left leaning angle I notice a leak at left rear wheel,never whenn parking flat.
There is a very small amount of up and down play in the axle.
is the seal blown or do I need to replace that side?

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Unread 10-28-2013, 09:51 PM   #2
gtg413i
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Inner axle seal. Need to remove the carrier and axles to replace. Its not worth it for a small drip. Just keep it topped off with fluid every few weeks. Or if you have a strong rear axle, upgrade gears and throw in a locker and do the seals at the same time.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 12:05 AM   #3
fireguyl9
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thanks for the info
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Unread 10-29-2013, 02:42 PM   #4
Apollo12227
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I would fix it if it were me. If there is play in the axle shaft then the outer axle bearing is gone too. The seal and the bearing are near the end of the axle tube. There is no "inner seal" near the differential on the d35.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 06:45 PM   #5
idskot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtg413i View Post
Inner axle seal. Need to remove the carrier and axles to replace. Its not worth it for a small drip. Just keep it topped off with fluid every few weeks. Or if you have a strong rear axle, upgrade gears and throw in a locker and do the seals at the same time.
.. wut? The Dana 35 only has seals at the end. Super simple to replace them, too.

All you have to do is jack up that side, remove the tire, pop open the differential cover and then push the shaft in a little (push it inward toward the differential), remove the c-clip inside of the carrier that retains the axle shaft, then slide the shaft out. That will expose the seal at the end of the tube.

Using a seal remover, pop the old one out. With either a seal setting tool, or your own DIY tool (I used a 2x4 when I did mine), hit the new one in. Put the shaft in, put the c-clip on. Clean the diff cover and housing, put a new bead of sealant on, screw it in. Fill it up. And you're good to go.

I'd do both seals at the same time. It's an extra 30 minutes or so of work, at most... and if one seal is leaking, the other one probably isn't too far behind.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 01:16 PM   #6
fireguyl9
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thanks idskot, looks like I have a project to do at the fire station
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Unread 10-30-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
SeanB95YJ
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Just carry a short piece of scrap 6x6 with you... when you go to park, stop about 1' short of where you need, get out, place 6x6 block of wood in front of rear left wheel, then pull ahead the remaining foot. you'll never leak a drop out that side again (at least not while parked )

to me (and most of us here) that's about the only expense worth putting into the turdy-5
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[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
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Unread 10-30-2013, 02:45 PM   #8
gtg413i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idskot
.. wut? The Dana 35 only has seals at the end. Super simple to replace them, too. All you have to do is jack up that side, remove the tire, pop open the differential cover and then push the shaft in a little (push it inward toward the differential), remove the c-clip inside of the carrier that retains the axle shaft, then slide the shaft out. That will expose the seal at the end of the tube. Using a seal remover, pop the old one out. With either a seal setting tool, or your own DIY tool (I used a 2x4 when I did mine), hit the new one in. Put the shaft in, put the c-clip on. Clean the diff cover and housing, put a new bead of sealant on, screw it in. Fill it up. And you're good to go. I'd do both seals at the same time. It's an extra 30 minutes or so of work, at most... and if one seal is leaking, the other one probably isn't too far behind.
I was thinking a front 30 sorry for misguidance.
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Unread 10-30-2013, 10:46 PM   #9
Flajeeper1
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[QUOTE=SeanB95YJ;17292538]Just carry a short piece of scrap 6x6 with you... when you go to park, stop about 1' short of where you need, get out, place 6x6 block of wood in front of rear left wheel, then pull ahead the remaining foot. you'll never leak a drop out that side again (at least not while parked )

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Unread 10-02-2014, 10:56 AM   #10
fireguyl9
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i'm replacing both axles in my 95 YJ having trouble loosening the locknut on the pin
any tips?

Last edited by fireguyl9; 10-02-2014 at 12:51 PM..
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Unread 10-02-2014, 12:29 PM   #11
mike134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanB95YJ View Post
Just carry a short piece of scrap 6x6 with you... when you go to park, stop about 1' short of where you need, get out, place 6x6 block of wood in front of rear left wheel, then pull ahead the remaining foot. you'll never leak a drop out that side again (at least not while parked )

to me (and most of us here) that's about the only expense worth putting into the turdy-5
I would disagree with this. If you're not doing hard offroading, there is no need to upgrade the Dana 35. Replace the seal, the part is cheap enough and you probably want to tinker with the jeep anyway. Unless you are going to climb underneath and check your diff fluid every couple days, you shouldn't wait too long.
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Unread 10-03-2014, 07:14 AM   #12
Jeepsr4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireguyl9 View Post
i'm replacing both axles in my 95 YJ having trouble loosening the locknut on the pin
any tips?
What exactly or where exactly is the lock nut?

I can walk you thru this fix with no problems,

If you talking about the bolt that holds the cross shaft? Bolt can brreak so be mindful of which way you loosening it. Once out then the cross shaft will slide out. Then push in the axles and the C clip will be right there in the diff. Take it off and then pull axle out. the seal and bearing are toast and they are one of the easiest to get at.

GET A LOT OF BRAKE CLEAN... the oil has already contaminated the shoes.
But lets fix the leak 1st then get the brakes back to working
axle-c-clip.jpg

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Unread 10-03-2014, 08:20 AM   #13
johnboy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireguyl9 View Post
i'm replacing both axles in my 95 YJ having trouble loosening the locknut on the pin
any tips?
It probably has some lock tight on the threads. Use a little heat to get it loosened up.
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Unread 10-03-2014, 08:26 AM   #14
Steve707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike134 View Post
I would disagree with this. If you're not doing hard offroading, there is no need to upgrade the Dana 35. Replace the seal, the part is cheap enough and you probably want to tinker with the jeep anyway. Unless you are going to climb underneath and check your diff fluid every couple days, you shouldn't wait too long.
I broke my first 35 getting on the freeway. But a bad seal is cheap enough that replacing the axle isn't worth it right now unless you were going to anyway.
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