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Unread 07-13-2008, 01:13 PM   #61
tuckinauster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
[
If the leaf springs you have are this design, and you end-up with this as your rear shackle angle (very poor), and the spring clips are clamped down tight like these (very restrictive and prohibit flex greatly), I can't see how these leafs could ever perform nice.

If your leaf spring shackle and leaf are not at an angle of ~90* statically, then they tend to fight each other and cause unwanted suspension dynamics. The greater angle they are from ~90* the worse things tend to be and shackle inversion can come into play be it the front shackles or the rears.

Way too many restrictions and a poor design if you ask me.
Those pics aren't a good representation of the shackle angle, right now they are right around 90* to each other. I think longer, boomer style shackles would remedy that problem. Your right about the spring clamps though, not the best design. I did find that if you pry the clamps open a little it will let the springs move and flex more. For the money, and how I use my rig, these springs perform better than I expected.

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Unread 07-13-2008, 02:15 PM   #62
Joe Dillard
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You may even try to open them all the way, drill bolt holes in the clamps, and run a bolt across the upper end. Yeah, this will probably void any warranty and you want to do it using heat if at all possible on the clamps and select a bolt that's not too big nor too small. This way, the clamps will allow much better spring pack movement. It's much easier to do while the leafs are removed & using a drill press, but you get the idea.

When we were testing various leaf clamp designs and engineering leaf packs that we were going to put on the market, we would do this on a regular basis.

I do like the pads between each leaf end.
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Unread 07-13-2008, 02:27 PM   #63
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Quote:
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You may even try to open them all the way, drill bolt holes in the clamps, and run a bolt across the upper end. Yeah, this will probably void any warranty and you want to do it using heat if at all possible on the clamps and select a bolt that's not too big nor too small. This way, the clamps will allow much better spring pack movement. It's much easier to do while the leafs are removed & using a drill press, but you get the idea.

When we were testing various leaf clamp designs and engineering leaf packs that we were going to put on the market, we would do this on a regular basis.

I do like the pads between each leaf end.
If I had the time/resources to do that, I would look into it. Does anyone sell replacement spring clamps? I'll have to ask Ryan and see how that would affect the warranty.
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Unread 07-13-2008, 04:58 PM   #64
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I don't build leaf springs for a living anymore, but....I do have a spring shop just a couple miles from where I live. They'd probably sell me some open clamp designed clips if I asked. Or you could ask a local spring maker if you have one, or call a few.

The thing about those clamps and trying to replace them, is that they are often installed using a huck bolt, which is similar to a common pop-rivet. Like these: http://www.rivco.co.uk/huck.html

They are usually not easily removed due to the huck, plus, a huck tool is best when installing a huck, especially in an application like a leaf spring.
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Unread 12-22-2008, 11:16 PM   #65
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Is there anything you need the DOESN't come with the kit... brake lines ect..
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Unread 12-22-2008, 11:19 PM   #66
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Is there anything you need the DOESN't come with the kit... brake lines ect..
Brake lines don't come with the kit, but you dont necessarly "need" them. Everything else to make it work is included. Even the sweet Rough Country sticker.
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Unread 12-23-2008, 10:02 PM   #67
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How do I loosen the t-case bolts?

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The t-case drop was really easy. The only tips I have for that is to make sure you loosen the t-case mount bolts so the skid plate is free to slide. An extra set of hands makes it a lot easier to get the holes lined up.

Heres the driveshaft angle. The best part, no vibes at all!!!

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Unread 12-23-2008, 10:36 PM   #68
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How do I loosen the t-case bolts?
Use a wrench...
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Unread 12-24-2008, 07:26 AM   #69
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Use a wrench...
Really?

I meant where are they?
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Unread 12-24-2008, 07:33 AM   #70
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Quote:
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Really?

I meant where are they?
The two bolts sticking down thru the center of the skidplate. The tcase/tranny mount bolts.
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Unread 12-29-2008, 07:24 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by rustywrangler View Post
The two bolts sticking down thru the center of the skidplate. The tcase/tranny mount bolts.
6 total...the skid plate is held up by six bolts. You have to use your floor jack and hold it up there while you put in the pucks (or bar) and longer bolts. Should tighten back up nicely.
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Unread 12-29-2008, 08:27 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by noflacko View Post
6 total...the skid plate is held up by six bolts. You have to use your floor jack and hold it up there while you put in the pucks (or bar) and longer bolts. Should tighten back up nicely.
You and Rusty are talking about different sets of bolts. I think it is recommended that you loosen the bolts that mount the t-case to the crossmember. Yes there are six bolts to remove when lowering the t-case but it's probably advisable to loosen the bolts actually mounting the t-case to the x-member.

Did I get that right Rusty?
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Unread 12-29-2008, 08:32 PM   #73
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I didn't loosen those...I left it mounted on the upper side of the skid... Should I go back and loosen everything, then tighten it back down?
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Unread 05-20-2009, 06:07 AM   #74
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I didn't loosen those...I left it mounted on the upper side of the skid... Should I go back and loosen everything, then tighten it back down?
I wanna know this also...

also I gotta tell ya those front lower shock nuts ...omg they suck Ive just started the first one and its pita...gotta get a new blade for the cutoff tool...sucks starting thsi project at 6pm and doin it outside..
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Unread 03-28-2010, 03:55 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noflacko View Post
6 total...the skid plate is held up by six bolts. You have to use your floor jack and hold it up there while you put in the pucks (or bar) and longer bolts. Should tighten back up nicely.

I just ordered mine for my YJ, and I plan on doing the install Saturday. So, basically the "tcase drop brakets" are just spacers between the skid plate and the frame? Also, I dont have access to a torch, just air tools. Will it be real tough getting the bolts out?

And great writeup, Im sure it will be very helpful for me when I get going on this.

Thanks
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