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Unread 01-23-2015, 08:23 PM   #1
JP88Wrangler
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Random Stalling issue '88 YJ *SO CONFUSED*

Hello All, hope all is well. this is a link of what I thought, at first, was my issue. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...rance-2939201/, however with further help from fellow co workers and asking around, I've come to the conclusion that the replies about a bad fuel was un heard of was in fact true. My fuel pump is fine. Fuel is pumped from the pump to the carb and it was just coincidence about my previous thread about how "I tap on the pump and it starts up". Last week it happened about 5 times within a 5 mile distance to where tapping didn't help and this is when i figured that it wasn't a fuel issue. As I drive,whether accelerating or just cruising, it will just give out, no "coughing" starving of fuel but just bluh. stops. dash lights come on and that's it. I go to restart it and it seems like it wants to start but it doesn't. I have had my friends help me out look for vac line cracks or grounding wire issues. We found that the main ignition coil wire that connects the cap and rotor was slightly loose but nothing that I felt convinced about. The other day I drove it to commute to and from work without any issues (10 miles round trip) However if I need to stop in between and run an errand (engine and engine compartment is hotter than when it's cold)or so it will start doing it, like it did today. I tried checking the ignition coil wires again and what seemed like a difference was when I pushed in all the ignition wires on the cap. It felt like it wanted to start (revved to 1000 rpm then quit) I then decided (I had to try something) to pull that main wire from the ignition coil to the cap and reverse the plugs (angled side to the coil instead of cap and vise versa. That got me home. Coincidence? I HAVE NO FREAKING CLUE!!!!

My question is, if an ignition coil goes bad doesn't it just quit and that's it? From past experiences yes. Also this thing is bone stock, however I do notice that the ignition coil says "Ford" on it. is that correct?I know there is a thread on this forum regarding switching over to an 80 something F150 ignition coil cap, rotor and wires modifications. I'm the 3rd owner of this Jeep so I'm not sure if that Ford coil is original or not.

One Last thing,(sorry I'm desperate, this has become a non reliable vehicle) by the battery there are 2 test ports and 2 relays, by chance what do those relays control? I pulled each one as I cranked the engine and didn't see a difference in anything. However I did notice they are full of crud. I need to clean and replace those at some point.
Thank you in advance.

JP

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Unread 01-24-2015, 01:21 AM   #2
Mike Romain
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An ignition module going bad can act like that. So can a pickup coil in the distributor and a coil. They are all heat failure parts. When it dies, check the resistance between the orange and purple wires going into the distributor. You should have 650 ohms or so.
Also check the ignition module way down on the drivers side fender to see if goo is leaking out the back. They can cook off just from leaving the key in run with the engine off.
I don't have my book with me to tell you how many ohms the coil should have, but it can fail when hot too.
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Unread 01-24-2015, 03:52 AM   #3
timatoe
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What you're describing is pretty classic Ignition Control Module failure. Mine did exactly that twice, then I got rid of it.
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Unread 01-25-2015, 01:42 PM   #4
JP88Wrangler
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I cannot thank you all enough. This is very reassuring. I will order up the module and coil. I will ohm out the wires once it happens again. I will keep you posted on my findings. Thanks again.
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Unread 01-26-2015, 07:15 AM   #5
aktive1
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check out my post . "1988 wrangler4.2.nuttered no spark when hot" i had some of the same issues as you.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1...n-hot-2953593/
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Unread 01-27-2015, 02:49 PM   #6
JP88Wrangler
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Aktive1 wow that's good to know. Thabks for the info. Thank you to all for the info. If there is one thing I hate is "throwing" parts @ a car and hoping for the best. I'm new to jeeps but they seem very simple. Yes it's 27yrs old, i should chg out parts however changing parts just because isn't good practice. Thank you again for the info. I will be attacking this tomorrow.
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Unread 01-27-2015, 04:37 PM   #7
Michaelgoesrawr
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Are you taking the opportunity to upgrade the ignition system?
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Unread 01-28-2015, 12:00 AM   #8
Anticanman
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I'm in the same boat. Having some problems getting spark with a 88 Yj. I'm about to torch this thing.
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Hmm, that's kinda like asking how much is it to buy a red car....
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Unread 01-28-2015, 04:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
I'm in the same boat. Having some problems getting spark with a 88 Yj. I'm about to torch this thing.
Let me find time....

sent from my phone because I'm not turtley enough for the turtle club.
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Unread 01-28-2015, 12:36 PM   #10
JP88Wrangler
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I'm in limbo in regards to ignition upgrades. mine is bone stock and not sure if anything else needs to be done other than a straight swap of coil cap rotor and wires. Is the upgrade from the 80's F150 6cylinder?
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Unread 01-29-2015, 07:50 PM   #11
Michaelgoesrawr
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The cap and rotor is called Team Rush. I have it on my Jeep. Works pretty well. Ignition upgrade was referring to the icm that gave you the problems. I have a howell kit and while it works with the stock icm, whoever had the kit before me installed a GM icm. Not an real upgrade but better than the stock stuff.
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Unread 01-30-2015, 06:27 AM   #12
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JP88Wrangler View Post
I'm in limbo in regards to ignition upgrades. mine is bone stock and not sure if anything else needs to be done other than a straight swap of coil cap rotor and wires. Is the upgrade from the 80's F150 6cylinder?
If your stock set is worn out the "upgrade" or team rush will help things. If your stock stuff is good, you don't see any difference. I just stayed with quality brass terminal parts, good wires and have no issues.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 02-07-2015, 01:02 PM   #13
JP88Wrangler
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Random Stalling issue "88 YJ *SO CONFUSED*

Quote:
Originally Posted by JP88Wrangler View Post
Aktive1 wow that's good to know. Thanks for the info. Thank you to all for the info. If there is one thing I hate is "throwing" parts @ a car and hoping for the best. I'm new to jeeps but they seem very simple. Yes it's 27 yrs old, i should chg out parts however changing parts just because isn't good practice. Thank you again for the info. I will be attacking this tomorrow.
Good day all.

So here's an update on my stalling.... After reading all of the replies. I decided to OHM out the pickup coil (Range 400-800) while the jeep has been sitting all day. I disconnected the connector, cleaned it up enough to get a good reading and it read 625ohms. Now I don't know if it was coincidence but I literally drove this thing for an hour straight and didn't stall on me once.. Ticked me off so i decided to just drive it and wait for it to stall. Of course 3 days later, when I'm in dead traffic (luckily I was in the right lane able to pull over) i popped the hood took a reading. it came up with 710ohms. (For the life of me i couldn't remember what the coil reading should be so i didn't ohm the actual coil) so I waited for about 5min tried starting it and nothing.. i then decided to pull the electrical connector off the coil and looked at the connectors (the first photo i attached),the picture was taken after i used my 6inch scale (only thing i had) to clean off any crud. Put it back on and I don't know if it was coincidence but it started right up. As soon as it started i wanted to read the pick up coil again and it was 690ohms. I know the range is 400-800 ohms but do you think mine is different? I read somewhere that one guy failed @ 485ohms. So this morning I drove to work, a 12min drive w stop lights etc, and took another reading after i parked it and it read 640ohms. What do you guys think? I just don't want to throw parts at this thing if it doesn't need it plus I don't know if the "new" parts are better... Thanks in advance.....

real quick, my other thing is, when it did stall on me I wasn't driving for a long period of time, maybe 10min to the store, was inside for about 20min then I drove away to go home and that's when it happened,however when i drove it continuously it was ok. maybe zapping the ICU on/off messes it up? i don't know.. thought I'd throw that out there...
coil-.jpg   connector.jpg  
coil.jpg

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Unread 02-07-2015, 07:19 PM   #14
Michaelgoesrawr
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What you've got in your pictures is the ignition coil. Not a pickup coil.

You can probably find a wells test sheet on the internet to test it.

I think the first test is at 200 and the secondary test is at 20k.
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Unread 02-07-2015, 07:32 PM   #15
Anticanman
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Should be between 4 and 8.
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Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Hmm, that's kinda like asking how much is it to buy a red car....
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