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post #16 of 28 Old 09-23-2013, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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Finally picked em up, already decided im removing the full hydro for now, since the brace he made for it occupies the leaf perch, also gonna have to get highsteer arms or do you thing his home made highsteer plates would work? Also with the steering since im going to a tie rod drag link setup, with it being so high will it hit the frame? Ill be running 1.5" RE SOA springs in front and cherokee springs out back.

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post #17 of 28 Old 09-23-2013, 08:59 PM
Danzigt
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I do not think the home made arms on there will work as there is no pivot on the same horizontal plane as the knuckle. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think existing ones would cause damaging lateral movement.
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post #18 of 28 Old 09-23-2013, 11:39 PM
Joe Dillard
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I zoomed in so that I could try to clearly see those homebrew hysteer arms and the stock knuckle steering arms. It is hard to tell if they are worth saving, I kind of doubt it & I can't see if the stock steering arms on the knuckles are in good condition to tie into a new hysteer arm with a vertical bolt.

You may need new knuckles if you intend on using hysteer arms which tie into the stock arms with a bolt so that you can set-up your steering links.

This is what I mean, which is what I did on my POS.


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post #19 of 28 Old 09-24-2013, 01:18 PM
jason m
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Shoot me a price if you do decide you don't want to run any of that hydro steering, I can make that work for sure in my buggy build, cylinder also.

If you decide to keep at least the arms you wont be able to run them as a "OEM hole tie in" as yours look like they were cut off.
But you can weld to the knuckle and add some extra ribs to help spread the load around, or at least keep the steering pressure off the 4 OEM KP bolts.

Joe's is the Artec fab kit, mine are the same just home made. Oh and also that's a good side buy side shot of the difference between a 78/79 short side and a 85 up Ford short side.



Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #20 of 28 Old 09-24-2013, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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im unsure as to what I will do with the hydro, I may keep it and after everything is under the rig and good to go may look into doing it, but if not youll be first to know. Yeah may end up having to get new knuckles as they dont have the original tierod hole, dunno why on that. Other than that I gotta get lockout hubs for it and start work on the frame
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post #21 of 28 Old 09-25-2013, 06:01 AM
jason m
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What are you looking for locking hubs, stock 30 spline warns or 35 spline stuff? I have 30 spline warns, if you wanted a pair I could put a set together and ship them out, trust me they will be o the cheap side.

I have no 35 spline stuff, and no OEM Ford knuckles. But there again if you decide to sell the old one's let me know. Yes I have a use for even those

Jason.

1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt...
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f149/...buggy-3693817/
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post #22 of 28 Old 09-25-2013, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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They are 35 spline
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post #23 of 28 Old 10-14-2013, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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Figure I'll just keep asking my random questions here instead of starting new threads. But I plan on stretching the rear, my question is springs, from what I read the xj leafs are most popular to use. Now I have 2 choices and I would like the advice of the pros I have 1.5" re soa springs that were previously on the jeep and I have the chance to trade a few items for basically brand new ome 2" xj springs I believe they are the light duty ones. Which would be the better choice? I already know that keeping the yj springs I'll have to move both mounts and the the xj one just the shackle mount.
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post #24 of 28 Old 10-14-2013, 08:38 PM
Joe Dillard
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Are you planning on moving the gas tank?

Room back there is at a premium once you swap in a larger rear axle. The differential cover may contact the skid under suspension compression/cycling, so much so that it may cause problems.
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post #25 of 28 Old 10-14-2013, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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Yeah its getting moved up or a fuel cell is going in haven't decided yet, most likely just moved up.
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post #26 of 28 Old 10-15-2013, 06:53 AM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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Any idea if these springs would work out alright? They are the light duty ome ones but being a 2" I figure with the weight and what not it'll even out.
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post #27 of 28 Old 10-15-2013, 09:57 AM
skyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unclejimbo View Post
Any idea if these springs would work out alright? They are the light duty ome ones but being a 2" I figure with the weight and what not it'll even out.
A lot of it has to do with where you put your spring mounts on the axle and shackle mounts on the rear of the jeep and I hope you are using a bumper/crossmember welded to the frame. Hope that helps you can do anything with an imagination and a welder.

build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/skyj-eccentric-build-1467426/ '90 YJ 5.2 magnum MPI, AX15, NP231 SYE, Dana 30 4.56 open/ 8.8 4.56 detriot locker. 1" shackles
2" BL, 4" stretch all on saggy waggy springs.
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post #28 of 28 Old 10-15-2013, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
Unclejimbo
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Yup its already been fixed and definitely a lot stronger then before
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