I'm giving the heep some much needed and overdue TLC. One of the things I'm doing is replacing the drag link and tie rod ends on the Rocky Road hi steer kit. A wild hair ran up my butt and I decided while I'm at it the play in the steering needs to be solved once and for all. I've been through two re-maned Durango steering gears, adjusted it as well and still play. I'm going to break down and buy a PSC steering gear. This one to be exact...
I was having issues with the stock pump not holding up, I went thru 3 in the last year. I looked into the pressure that the psc and stock pumps run at, 1450 psi and 1500psi. Then I found out that one from a wj with the 4.7l v8 has a 1950 psi pump. Cherokee guys have been putting them on theirs for years. It took sum adapting to make fit since i did not swap to a 99+ 4.0 intake manifold, the pump mounts slightly diff after 99 due to the manifold change. All i can say is it took All of the slop out of my steering. Every last little bit and now i can steer locked front and rear in 4wd again. Before I had to man handl;e the wheel and i can do it with 1 or 2 fingers on the wheel now. Its also handles better in 2wd IMO. U cant go wrong with the psc stuff tho, I was just trying to find an easier alternative i could grab at the junkyard for 25 bucs haha
So you have the PSI steering gear? I may look into the pump itself, I wonder if that could be the problem with the remaned Durango gear having play. Bow hard was it to make the 4.7 pump work?
Not hard at all...the bolt holes r in the right place but aren't threaded. Also there is one extra bolt hole. I took a 3/8 16 tap and tapped all the holes. Bought short 1 inch grade 8 bolts for the front and 2" grade 8 bolts for the back. Then I took the bracket off and drilled the holes out that swing the pump side to side for the slighty larger bolts to slide thru. I also took my grinder and flattened all the raised areas on the bracket where the pump sits against so that it sits flat. It's aluminum took mayb 10 mins no biggy. Only other thing u have to do is change the fitting on the high pressure line, it's larger than the stock yj fitting. I just zipped it off with my impact and took the one off my old pump and tapped it into the new pump. I did have to remove the resevoir and reattach it to the pump tho. It's only 2 clips that hold the resevoir on, replace the o-ring between the resevoir and pump while ur at it. Mine leaked so I had to put 2 in, with 2 in there it's been drip free ever since. I also plumbed in a tranny cooler on the low pressure line coming from the Durango box then thru the cooler then back to the resevoir. It's worked wonders for my turning on and offroad.
I wonder if the one without the reservoir would bolt up easier and if the reservoir and be mounted remotely like the YJ? I may go that route if the pull-a-part doesn't have it. It would still be cheaper than PSC and have a higher PSI.
I tried to connect mine that way thinking that little tube on my pump that goes to the resevoir would be the same on my old pump as the new one and it didn't. The hole was too big, if they sell the little metal tube that goes in place of the resevoir then yea it'll work but I couldn't find one that fit. If u do let me know, I'd rather have mine mounted remotely as well.
I can take pics if u like but I don't no how to resize them now. I used to b able to just post them from my phone. I took pics of most of the steps in case others had questions. I think it's def worth the trouble tho. On another note, the WJ pump normally runs hydraulic fluid due to fan that runs off of it. I am runnin regular ATF and it hasn't caused me issues. The only diff between the 2 fluids is the hydraulic fluid has a higher boiling point. That's y I plumbed in the tranny cooler, first time out I overflowed the resevoir because the ATF got hot and expanded. I also had entirely too much in the resevoir. This was also while wheeling for like 5 hrs, I've had no such issue since installing the cooler. I stick my finger in every now and again to see how hot it is and it's hardly even warm. I think the issue was just with putting too much in the resevoir first time out.
I have a few of during the process. Popped the 2 clips off the resevoir with a hammer and screw driver. Separated so i could tap the bolt holes and swap the high pressure hose fitting from my old pump to the new one.
The top and bottom holes in the second picture need to be tapped from the back in this direction. The bolt hole to the left is not needed so I cut it off crudely later with my grinder.
There r 3 holes on the front of the pump. U must stick the tap thru the holes in the pulley to make it threaded the right direction. This allows u to bolt the old bracket for the tensioner to the new pump. U must drill out the holes in the bracket itself to fit the slightly larger 3/8 1" long grade 8 bolt thru.
Removed the old high pressure fitting to put the old one on. The hole with the red cap is where it goes into. The lower hole is where ur resevoir attaches. Replace the O ring with an appropriate sized matching ones from the hardware store. Mine required 2 O rings to seal correctly
I used 2" long 3/8 grade 8 bolts with washers for the 2 bolts on the back. Also there is an extra nipple on the back of the resevoir, I put a red cap on it filled with rtv and sealed it for good. I used the bottom nipple on the resevoir which is larger. I changed the low pressure hose from 3/8 to 7/16s hose. It cost less then 10 dollars at advanced. I think I bought 4 feet of it.