Project "Daddy's Junk"

[1 ton yj]

Originally Posted by tank29

I need to get an e-brake set-up for state inspection so, how do I get it and keep the rear a disc set-up? I am using '83 J20 axles and the rear is a D60. I have all of the drum stuff stripped off and scraped. What do you mean by the e-brake on the transfer case? The e-brake is a must for the inspection but I don't know if they would pass it if it is not on the rear axle.

It doesn't matter where it is as long as it's a mechanical brake and not hydraulic. Search Google for t-case e-brakes. Basically you use a flange yoke on the t-case and bolt on a rotor. Then you make a mount for a small mechanical caliper.

Who is Jim? How do I get in contact with him? I know that finding one in the JY will be next to impossible around here. I know I jumped the gun when I bought the motor that I have but now that is what I have to work with. If you could put me in touch with him I will just got to him when I get closer to dropping the motor and trans in.

Jim is Jim's Performance.

Will they work for the rear? Should they be gusseted at all? What position should they be mounted on the frame to axle (straight above or off-set)? I know this will be one of the last things to do because you will want the weight of the Jeep on the frame so you can get the correct measurement for the shocks. I am looking at getting Blstein 5150's when I do buy them.

Thanks 1 ton.



Todd

They could be used in the rear if you have room between the tire and the frame. If not you could french them into the frame like a lot of the TJ guys do. They don't need any gusseting and you can mount them at whatever angle you need to, but the closer to straight up and down the better. I had Bilstein 5100s, great shocks!

[JeepMan1975]

If you're using disc brakes in the rear, it might be possible for your application to use EBC brakes:

http://www.ebcbrakes.com/greenstuffinfo.html

[tank29]

Well, it has been awhile since I even got to look at the jeep. I am to the point now where I need to come up with the parts to convert the standard D44 knuckles to a high-steer knuckle. I have researched and found that I could get different knuckles out of a JY but all of the yards around here make you buy the whole axle ($125-$200). I would have to send out to have them milled flat then drilled/tapped. I have added up the cost of the parts and it would be around $600-$700.

I could just buy these which would be new casts and the old arms would be removed...



It is $699 but it is new cast. I have also thought about ordering this kit too...



This is another $259. What are the thoughts of my fellow members?

I am hoping to order these next month and I hope to have my frame ready to put the axles under it by then. My goal is to have a rolling chassie by the end of March and then I can get the motor, trans, and t-case installed. I would like to start the body work by June but we will have to wait and see how much time I get to work on it and what for $$$$ I have available.



Todd

[sitdwnandhngon]

wow, your gonna have a great ride when your finished, keep up the good work. im sitting on a few boxes of axle parts that look like your first picture that i cant afford to install. cant wait to see the finished product.

[91yjwrangler6]

I have a set of flat top knuckles off a chevy 44 that im not using. 100 bucks and their yours. The drivers side one is already drilled and tapped. The passenger side is just filed flat. If you have a drill press you could easily drill the holes though. Im in Red Lion, PA just south of York. Im not to sure how far that is from you. I could possibly ship them though if you want them.

[tank29]

Originally Posted by 91yjwrangler6

I have a set of flat top knuckles off a chevy 44 that im not using. 100 bucks and their yours. The drivers side one is already drilled and tapped. The passenger side is just filed flat. If you have a drill press you could easily drill the holes though. Im in Red Lion, PA just south of York. Im not to sure how far that is from you. I could possibly ship them though if you want them.

Hey 91yjwrangler6, thanks for the offer. You are about 2 south of me. I may take you up on it. Do you have any picks of the knuckles? I could drive down and get them one day. Let me know about the pics and I will let you know next week if I want them. Thanks again for the offer!!!!



Todd

[tank29]

Originally Posted by sitdwnandhngon

wow, your gonna have a great ride when your finished, keep up the good work. im sitting on a few boxes of axle parts that look like your first picture that i cant afford to install. cant wait to see the finished product.

Yeah, I know the feeling about having parts and no $$$ to put them together. This is a slow project since it is not my main mode of transportation. My goal is to have it back on the road for the York All Jeep Breeds 2009.



Todd

[91yjwrangler6]

Hey 91yjwrangler6, thanks for the offer. You are about 2 south of me. I may take you up on it. Do you have any picks of the knuckles? I could drive down and get them one day. Let me know about the pics and I will let you know next week if I want them. Thanks again for the offer!!!!

Their at my friends house in his shed right now because he was going to buy them from me but ill head over there tomorrow morning and pick them up and post up a couple pics of them.

[pthrift]

man what a build you've got in the works! GL! gonna be hella sweet when ur done; for sure!

[91yjwrangler6]

If you have any more questions or want any more pics of them just let me know.

[tank29]

Thank you 91yjwrangler6. The side that is "filed" flat just needs to be drilled and tapped or should it be milled too? I wonder if you could remove the old cast "arms"? Thanks again for the picks.

I probably will buy them (90% sure). I am not off until the 28th this month so maybe we could do something that day. Let me know if we could work something out for that day.



Todd

[1 ton yj]

It should be milled flat before being drilled and tapped. Call Parts Mike, he will set you up. I put a Ford HP 44 in a friend's Tahoe a few years ago and it was cheaper to buy a drilled and tapped knuckle from Mike and send him the one off the axle for a core, than it was to have the one off the axle machine locally.

You don't need high steer, just crossover. Keeping the tie rod down low will save you a lot of money. You could always put it up high later on should you have a problem hitting it on rocks.

[coyote_94yj]

Sweet....Good to see your back into the project. I finally started puttin mine back together.



Chris

[91yjwrangler6]

I have seen a good bit of vehicles where people have just filed them flat instead of having it milled. Most people say you have to have it milled but my friends dad works for a 4 wheel drive shop and has been building vehicles for 30 years and he told me just to file it and get it as flat as i can and it will be fine. He said he has done it on many vehicle including many vans on 42's without any problems. If i was doing it i would cut off both the arms with a band saw. I would just do full high steer because its only going to cost you the little bit of money for an extra arm for the drivers side. So really you would only be saving like 90 bucks if you do crossover. Also if you dont have it machined and just drill it yourself then you only have to buy the drill bit and tap. Ill send you a pm with my number if you have any more question or want to set up a time to come get them.

-Cory

[yjcrawlr]

I have a 60 on the front of my jeep. But my scout has a 3/4 ton chevy front 44. I took the knuckle and the poison spyder high steer arm to a local machine shop and they drilled and tapped it and machined it flat for $60. That was just for the passenger side. I haven't converted that rig to high steer yet it just has a x-over steering set up. I would stick with the leaf springs for this build. By the time you buy d.o.m., heims or johnny joints, inserts, jam nuts, coils, new shocks, brackets, time... Lots of little parts that add up to alot of $. Try your local machine shop.