Project "Daddy's Junk" - Page 4

jeep couple · 12-05-2007, 06:16 AM

thanks! will be patiently waiting. If it is a no go, then i will go ahead and order my BDS lift kit.

jeepinMatt · 12-05-2007, 08:54 AM

where you thinking on coilovers or coil springs if you decided to link it and would you 3 or 4 link it

**tank29** · 12-05-2007, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepinMatt

where you thinking on coilovers or coil springs if you decided to link it and would you 3 or 4 link it

I think I would go with coil overs and 4 link it. I have to do some more research but my laptop took a dump and I have been trying to use my wife's a little each night till I get a new one.

Todd

JeepMan1975 · 12-05-2007, 10:34 PM

Todd,

Very interesting approach. At one point in time, I considered doing away with the entire leaf spring suspension and instead replacing it with a coil spring suspension setup, very similiar to what's on the TJ.

There wasn't anything wrong with doing it, it's just at the time it was relatively unheard of and almost every "expert" I spoke to told me it wasn't worth it. Something about the YJ frame not being strong enough and not well suited for coil springs.

Needless to say, eventually I dropped the idea. However, I've seen a few Jeeps here and there with the 3 link coil suspension and those are some serious rock crawlers! The rear axles usually gets pushed back 15-ish inches and the fenders (front and rear) get extensively cut if not done away with.

I'm somewhat new to the Jeep people scene (I wheel alone), and have never seen a DD with the setup you want to do. If you ever wanted to change the entire suspension system, I guess now would be the perfect time to do it.

Just some food for thought.

**tank29** · 12-06-2007, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeepMan1975

Todd,

Very interesting approach. At one point in time, I considered doing away with the entire leaf spring suspension and instead replacing it with a coil spring suspension setup, very similiar to what's on the TJ.

There wasn't anything wrong with doing it, it's just at the time it was relatively unheard of and almost every "expert" I spoke to told me it wasn't worth it. Something about the YJ frame not being strong enough and not well suited for coil springs.

Needless to say, eventually I dropped the idea. However, I've seen a few Jeeps here and there with the 3 link coil suspension and those are some serious rock crawlers! The rear axles usually gets pushed back 15-ish inches and the fenders (front and rear) get extensively cut if not done away with.

I'm somewhat new to the Jeep people scene (I wheel alone), and have never seen a DD with the setup you want to do. If you ever wanted to change the entire suspension system, I guess now would be the perfect time to do it.

Just some food for thought.

Thanks for the info. Like I said it is just a thought, I haven't done much research on it yet. I really didn't think about the stretching of the wheel base.

Here is PA that would never pass our state inspection!!!!

Right now I have enough on my plate with everything else (rear disc w/e-brake and 5.7l Vortec wire harness w/computer). I need to figure out a way or find the hardware for the rear Eldorado calipers and find a complete wire harness for a 98' Chevy 1/2 ton w/5.7l. The computer will have to be re-programed for a 700r since they usually came with either a 460LE or a 480LE tranny.

I don't know how much work I will get done on it till after the first of the year so I will have time to do some research and figure out whether or not it will be even feasible to do it. I understand that it could (WILL) cost more and I just figured since I have everything tore down now that it would be a good time to do it.

I will keep you posted and again, thank you for the info!!

Todd

jeepinMatt · 12-06-2007, 09:12 AM

yeah i would keep it just leaf sprung. coil overs are not cheap buy any means. and setting them up can be expensive two. It seems like you are in the middle of enough projects as is and i would take on linking it. just my opinion

**tank29** · 12-06-2007, 09:31 AM

I think that is what I am going to do, just go with my original plan and stick to that. I am in no hurry anyways. Like I said before I have two issues that I need to get addressed anyways.

Todd

1 ton yj · 12-06-2007, 10:19 AM

Leave it with leaf springs so you can get it driveable and get some seat time in the woods. A fancy link suspension won't get you anywhere if you don't know how to drive it first. A linked vehicle will handle and behave much differently than a leafed vehicle will.

As for the computer and harness, just call Jim at www.jimsperformance.com and he will take care of it all. He can sell you a new harness and flash your PCM for a manual trans so it will work with the 700R4

**Tomb Raider** · 12-06-2007, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 ton yj

Leave it with leaf springs so you can get it driveable and get some seat time in the woods. A fancy link suspension won't get you anywhere if you don't know how to drive it first. A linked vehicle will handle and behave much differently than a leafed vehicle will.

You beat me too it.

While I do not have a linked rig, I firmly believe you need to get some seat time with your rig to understand what it can/can't do. And with a range of 3-5g depending on setup of a coilover link system....it's a big investment to make without having a prior understanding of your current rig capabilites.

On a side note, I believe my rig to be quite capable. I don't say that from my own bias...but from wheeling with others and being able to "compare" side by side on the same trails. While I would love to have a linked rig, and actually have the funds to do it....I felt there was still more "tweaking" both I as a driver, and items as modifications that I could do to get that much more out of a relatively simple suspension system.

Final note:

You already have your suspension. And the good thing about a leaf suspension.....it's relatively cheap. Your not gonna lose anything by not doing the links now. Your not gonna be out major costs. It's not like blowing 1500 on a super 30 kit for a front axle only to find out you want 60's....as an example. When you feel you want to go to a link system, you can always sell off your springs at that time....and poof...that's about it. For that matter, you can sell of the traction bar setup as well. Easy stuff to get rid of....as there are always others that are "joining the ranks."

Wheel the rig...get "cozy" with it....then make the decision. You won't be out anything, and in fact will have gained the experience.

**tank29** · 12-06-2007, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 ton yj

Leave it with leaf springs so you can get it driveable and get some seat time in the woods. A fancy link suspension won't get you anywhere if you don't know how to drive it first. A linked vehicle will handle and behave much differently than a leafed vehicle will.

As for the computer and harness, just call Jim at www.jimsperformance.com and he will take care of it all. He can sell you a new harness and flash your PCM for a manual trans so it will work with the 700R4

Thanks for the link. I agree with you 100%. It was just a random thought that for some reason I started thinking about pursueing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TombRaider

While I do not have a linked rig, I firmly believe you need to get some seat time with your rig to understand what it can/can't do. And with a range of 3-5g depending on setup of a coilover link system....it's a big investment to make without having a prior understanding of your current rig capabilites.

On a side note, I believe my rig to be quite capable. I don't say that from my own bias...but from wheeling with others and being able to "compare" side by side on the same trails. While I would love to have a linked rig, and actually have the funds to do it....I felt there was still more "tweaking" both I as a driver, and items as modifications that I could do to get that much more out of a relatively simple suspension system.

Final note:

You already have your suspension. And the good thing about a leaf suspension.....it's relatively cheap. Your not gonna lose anything by not doing the links now. Your not gonna be out major costs. It's not like blowing 1500 on a super 30 kit for a front axle only to find out you want 60's....as an example. When you feel you want to go to a link system, you can always sell off your springs at that time....and poof...that's about it. For that matter, you can sell of the traction bar setup as well. Easy stuff to get rid of....as there are always others that are "joining the ranks."

Wheel the rig...get "cozy" with it....then make the decision. You won't be out anything, and in fact will have gained the experience.

Scott, you are one of the most knowledgable people on here and I value your opinion very much. I agree with both you and 1 ton YJ about seat time and getting to know the limits of your rig.

I will check out the link that 1 ton YJ supplied and see what he can do for my set-up.

Thanks again!!!

**tank29** · 12-28-2007, 02:05 PM

Okay, I am getting ready to get back to work on the Jeep so I will be placing my first order for the new year next week. I will be ordering the following parts from CCOR...

2 78' Cadi Eldorado rear calipers w/e-brake & pads
1 Complete set of front & rear greasable boomerang shackles
1 Set of Warn Prem locking hubs
1 Set of Advance Adapters motor mounts
1 SYE kit for a Chevy NP241 t-case

There may be a few other things if money permits.

I have been looking for a complete wire harness and computer for a '98 Chevy Silverado with the 5.7L Vortec and I haven't been able to find one. If anyone knows where one is and the price is decent could you please let me know. I would be willing to toss a few bucks ($$) as a finder's fee.

What have others done with the stock shock towers when doing a frame up build? Have you replaced them with something better? Relocated the position of them? I was thinking about replacing them (front & rear) with something like these...

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com 12" Shock Towers

http://bluetorchfab.com BTF Jeep YJ Front Shock Tower Kit

I have read that you can use an 1988 F250 shock towers (part #E5TZ 18183A) and should be around $16-$24 each. Can you use these on the front and rear? I have also read that there are cast ones that you should stay away from. What are your thoughts on these?

Todd

1 ton yj · 12-28-2007, 07:12 PM

I had the eldorado calipers on my last rig and they were horrible, total rip-off. It seriously stopped better with the 14 bolt drums than it did with the disks (and yes I had the correct master cylinder). They are not self adjusting like the front calipers are, they are adjusted by actuating the parking brake. I ended up not going to inspection with that truck and would just crawl under it before every trip and cycle the actuators with a pair of pliers. Use regular front calipers and put the ebrake on the transfer case if you absolutely must have it.

Jim will have the harness. Even if you step in lucky dog poo and find one at a junkyard that wasn't removed with a torch or a pair of bolt cutters, you will not be saving any money by the time you send it to Jim and have him mod it if you don't feel like trimming the fat off of it yourself.

For the shock towers, just cut the factory ones off the frame completely and weld on the F250 towers. It's cheap and works. I used BTF tube shock towers and wound up cutting them off when I went to coilovers because they were too thin and too short. Mounting the shocks is one of the last things you should do.

**Tomb Raider** · 12-28-2007, 09:55 PM

Looks like the guy I got mine off of has them in stock again:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-60-FORD-REAR-DRUM-TO-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42605QQihZ00 2QQitemZ120202076033QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

**tank29** · 12-29-2007, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 ton yj

I had the eldorado calipers on my last rig and they were horrible, total rip-off. It seriously stopped better with the 14 bolt drums than it did with the disks (and yes I had the correct master cylinder). They are not self adjusting like the front calipers are, they are adjusted by actuating the parking brake. I ended up not going to inspection with that truck and would just crawl under it before every trip and cycle the actuators with a pair of pliers. Use regular front calipers and put the ebrake on the transfer case if you absolutely must have it.

I need to get an e-brake set-up for state inspection so, how do I get it and keep the rear a disc set-up? I am using '83 J20 axles and the rear is a D60. I have all of the drum stuff stripped off and scraped. What do you mean by the e-brake on the transfer case? The e-brake is a must for the inspection but I don't know if they would pass it if it is not on the rear axle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 ton yj

Jim will have the harness. Even if you step in lucky dog poo and find one at a junkyard that wasn't removed with a torch or a pair of bolt cutters, you will not be saving any money by the time you send it to Jim and have him mod it if you don't feel like trimming the fat off of it yourself.

Who is Jim? How do I get in contact with him? I know that finding one in the JY will be next to impossible around here. I know I jumped the gun when I bought the motor that I have but now that is what I have to work with. If you could put me in touch with him I will just got to him when I get closer to dropping the motor and trans in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1 ton yj

For the shock towers, just cut the factory ones off the frame completely and weld on the F250 towers. It's cheap and works. I used BTF tube shock towers and wound up cutting them off when I went to coilovers because they were too thin and too short. Mounting the shocks is one of the last things you should do.

Will they work for the rear? Should they be gusseted at all? What position should they be mounted on the frame to axle (straight above or off-set)? I know this will be one of the last things to do because you will want the weight of the Jeep on the frame so you can get the correct measurement for the shocks. I am looking at getting Blstein 5150's when I do buy them.

Thanks 1 ton.

Todd

**tank29** · 12-29-2007, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomb Raider

Looks like the guy I got mine off of has them in stock again:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-60-FORD-REAR-DRUM-TO-DISC-BRAKE-CONVERSION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42605QQihZ00 2QQitemZ120202076033QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Hey Scott,

Did those calipers come with the e-brake? I need them to pass PA state inspection. I do not want to go back to drum brakes so I have to figure out how to make this work.

I know I did not go with the normal axle choice, instead I went with something that would keep the axle a little wider then stock (5") then going with the Ford or Chevy axles which are about (9") wider then stock. I tried to save a little money and work by going the route I did by not having to narrow the axles and buy new axle shafts.

It will come together in the end. I know that there will be alot of $$$ spent and somethings that I will wish that I did different just like everyone else that has a Jeep.

Todd