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Unread 05-14-2010, 06:26 PM   #1
Randy77358
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1988 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
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Problems after "T R" Upgrade

I don't think my issue is because of the Team Rush upgrade, but here is what is happening.

Last summer I did the upgrade, the YJ ran beautifully, then from about Dec till April, It was rarely driven. Aprrox 2500 miles since the upgrade.

Then last week or so it started idling ruf while in drive.

I inspected the distributor cap and there were groves on each of the posts.
Today, I put a new cap and rotor on and drove it @ 62 miles. At first it idled smooth again. Then as the day went on, it began getting ruf again.

When I got home, the new cap had grooves again.

Any suggestions?

Condensor?
Coil?
Plugs?

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Unread 05-14-2010, 06:38 PM   #2
JohnFM3
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I would be considering the condition of the distributor. Probably worn out and now has vertical slop.
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92 YJ (BOSS) 4.0L H.O. w/AX-15 5sp Manual, 231 TCase, Dana 30/8.8 (3.73) 2.5 inch Flowmaster R.E. 2 inch lift and 2 inch body lift for CJ clip
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Unread 05-15-2010, 06:08 AM   #3
Randy77358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnFM3 View Post
I would be considering the condition of the distributor. Probably worn out and now has vertical slop.

Thank you, you are the only response,,, I did a search looking for "vertical slop" and other info on the distributor and didn't come up with anything.
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Unread 05-15-2010, 06:41 AM   #4
ctm
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where are you getting your parts from. I did read somewhere there are two different rotors...I use NAPA FA136, FA139, FA159 for the cap , rotor, and adapter.
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Unread 05-15-2010, 06:59 AM   #5
Randy77358
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The cap and rotors are coming from Auto Zone,,,, the same part numbers that are listed on the upgrade thread
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Unread 05-15-2010, 07:16 AM   #6
jdubsjeep
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There are 2 different rotors. one has a pin that fits into a hole on the plate on the bottom of the distributor. Check to see if you are using the wrong one. Also check to see if there is any play in the dist. shaft, shake it side to side and up and down. Grab the rotor and try to spin it, It should be rock solid. I prefer to use the cap / rotor with the brass studs instead of the aluminum, just personal preference...
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Unread 05-15-2010, 08:22 AM   #7
JohnFM3
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Sorry for not being more clearer. Vertical slop is the shaft being able to move up and down. As jdubsjeep stated, check for play in the shaft. I would set the engine to Top Dead Center on #1 and pull distributor and check its shaft play.
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97 XJ (Diablo) 4.0L H.O. w/AW4 4sp Auto Dana 30/Chry 8.75 2.5 inch Flowmaster Exhaust 4 inch Lift w/ 32inch tires & RS5000 Shocks
92 YJ (BOSS) 4.0L H.O. w/AX-15 5sp Manual, 231 TCase, Dana 30/8.8 (3.73) 2.5 inch Flowmaster R.E. 2 inch lift and 2 inch body lift for CJ clip
XJ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2634588 YJ http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3322306
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Unread 05-15-2010, 01:46 PM   #8
jdubsjeep
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sound advice
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Unread 05-15-2010, 06:16 PM   #9
Randy77358
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I didnt pull the distributor, because it was raining today,,,, but I did pull the cap and wiggled the rotor,,,

It seems loose going side to side and the gear moves up and down,,,

For $44.00 bucks, and if it is not raining tomorrow,,, I am going to go ahead and replace it.

Thanks guys, I'll let ya know if this fixes it......
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Unread 05-16-2010, 05:35 AM   #10
Randy77358
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Well, now I am confused, I was able to pick up a new (reman) distributor lastnight.

Comparing it to the old one, the gear under the rotor wiggles up and down and side to side on the new one, just like the old one.... now I am not sure it is the distributor.

Last edited by Randy77358; 05-16-2010 at 09:34 AM..
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Unread 05-16-2010, 09:13 AM   #11
jdubsjeep
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Here is what appears to be your problem if I understand you correctly. I got this from another thread. It is tough to long distance trouble shoot...

The large Ford cap & rotor are the largest part of the upgrade.
By spreading terminals apart, you won't have as many crossfires (firing the wrong spark plug) and multi-fires (spark energy firing more than one plug at the same time).

The rotor for the larger/taller cap will lift up the spark energy out of the distributor housing, so you won't have the spark energy jumping to 'Ground' (the entire metal distributor body, and all the metal distributor parts are 'Ground') and instead, going to the spark plug terminals where it is intended to be and will do you some good.

Getting away from the factory cap, that is black, will help too.
To make those caps black, they use 'Carbon Black', a carbon soot product from burning fossil fuels.
Carbon is conductive, and will help the spark energy go places it shouldn't.
It's called 'Carbon Tracking', and once the cap has a 'Carbon Track' in it, it's ruined.

By using a true, premium dielectric (non-conductive) distributor cap with brass terminals, the spark energies will have a much better chance of reaching the intended spark plug at the correct time...

The vented distributor cap also vents out the build up of Ionized Air.
For a spark to jump, the voltage must ionize the air in the gap first, and since the spark energy has to ionize the air gaps between rotor and plug wire terminal on every cylinder, every time, there is often a build up of excess ionized air in the distributor cap.

That excess Ionized air allows the spark energy to jump anywhere there is an ion trail, which is anywhere and everywhere if the cap/distributor body if full of excess ionized air...

By venting the cap and the excess ionized air, ground fires, multi-fires and cross fires are substantially reduced!
This means for the first time since your vehicle rolled off the production line in '83, the spark energy is going to have a fighting chance of getting to the correct plug wire terminal at the correct time...

Now, if you use a good set of plug wires, it will get to the spark plug with out loosing a bunch of it's power...
------------------

The ignition coil (The E-core coil) is an easy way to bump up the USABLE spark energy a little bit!
Now that you have a cap, rotor and plug wires to deliver the spark energy, why not add some to the mix for cheap!

The E-core coil isn't a huge improvement, but will saturate much faster than the canister coil, and it can be mounted/run at any angle since it's not oil filled.

The E-core coil also has the advantage of working with about any factory style ignition module, and even breaker points if you use enough resistor...
--------------------

Now that you have the vehicle starting and running much better, you may want to add a little more power...

That would be from adjusting the advance 'curve' (how fast and when the vacuum and centrifugal advance engage in relationship to the engine vacuum levels and RPM range).

By adding some advance at the right time you can gain some power in selected RPM ranges.
This would be from adjusting the spring pressures or weight of the weights for RPM changes,
And adjusting the mechanical limiters and/or spring pressure preload rates of the vacuum system.

All AMC/Motorcraft distributors have a spring preload pressure (vacuum advance rate) adjusters from the factory, so you lucked out there.

(If you would have switched to an HEI distributor, you would have to pay for a new vacuum advance to do this. HEI's are not adjustable from the factory)

A small file or Dremel tool will allow you to change the amount of advance.
------------------------------

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Information gathered for free on the internet is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it!
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Unread 05-16-2010, 09:33 AM   #12
Randy77358
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I used the gray cap "G" for gold / brass terminals. 7mm wires, and the taller rotor, I checked the parts again and they are the same part numbers as in the TR posts.
PARTS LIST, Auto Zone

Auto Zone
, Cap Adapter, $4.99, p/n F960
Auto Zone, Distributor Cap, $20.99, p/n F2104G
Auto Zone, Rotor, $3.99, p/n F953


new 7mm wires

I replaced the coil thismorning, and took fine emery paper to the cap terminals..The ruf idle seems to be gone for the time being......
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Unread 05-17-2010, 04:13 AM   #13
Randy77358
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Now I am not sure the ruf idle is related to the ignition parts.
yesterday, I put new plugs, plug wires, re-checked the timing,,,, and it ran good,,,,, nice and smooth.

After about an hour, it began to run ruf ,,,, I started to adjust the carb (carter) and the mixtures screws on the front don't even seem to phase it ( as in, (when turned either way, nothings happens) , now I am thinking carb problem,,,,,
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Unread 05-17-2010, 05:38 AM   #14
Mark05059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy77358 View Post
Now I am not sure the ruf idle is related to the ignition parts.
yesterday, I put new plugs, plug wires, re-checked the timing,,,, and it ran good,,,,, nice and smooth.

After about an hour, it began to run ruf ,,,, I started to adjust the carb (carter) and the mixtures screws on the front don't even seem to phase it ( as in, (when turned either way, nothings happens) , now I am thinking carb problem,,,,,
not sure if I missed it or not but you did do the nutter bypass as well as the team rush upgrade?
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Unread 05-17-2010, 07:17 AM   #15
Randy77358
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Yes did the Nutter also last year,,
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