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Problem - torx head bolt windshield hinge
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Problem - torx head bolt windshield hinge
Any tips on getting these bolts out? I bought some new hinges I would like to put on. The torx head socket I used twisted when I tried to loosen a bolt. Granted, this was a cheapo torx head socket I bought when I was a teenager. Should I just get a higher quality socket? Any ideas?
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Penetrating oil, then heat, then penetrating oil, then heat, then pray. If that doesn't work, a really nice 1/4" drill bit should take care of the problem.
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I found welding a large nut to it made things much easier for me, it heated things cherry red which broke the rust free, and eliminated the torks head
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#4 |
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Registered User
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Definately put some heat on it. I used heat on mine and they came right out. Working on a jeep without a torch is damn near impossible.
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My Build Thread Extreme Makeover |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Jeep used red locktight on the bolts.
Gently heat it with a torch (don't burn the paint) and it should back right out. |
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#6 |
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Registered User
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I would recommend that you pick a few GOOD torx bots. I have busted many of the cheapos. I specifically picked up the torx bits for the front bumper and windshield hinges.
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Thanks Rob 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande 4in RC Lift 33" Tires with 73,000 miles. Auto Trans |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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The windshield frame has threaded inserts in it. Those torx bolts should come out with a quality bit, a little bit of heat and some muscle. The bolts that go into the tub have nuts on them and are covered in sealant. Drill those suckers out. You will have to disassemble the dash and glove box some to reassemble with new nuts. I used a 2 part epoxy to re seal over the new nuts in the tub. Are you replacing the door hinges as well? If you do, just snug the bolts into the door, close the door and make sure the gaps are correct then tighten the bolts. The door will close and you can remove the doors without much hassle. The whole job took the better part of 1 evening. Good luck
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#8 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Whenever you attempt to remove a Torx or allen head fastener, a good trick is to fill the head of the fastener with valve grinding paste. It's a gritty paste (in a small tube) that's used for lapping valves. Then gently tap your driver into the fastener until it's fully seated. The excess paste will ooze out, but the remaining paste will take up the slack in the fastener head & help prevent slipping & stripping.
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Click here to see all of my different albums on Photobucket. Choose any album to see all of my pics! Mean Max is setting up his Jeep shop! Picture history of my progress here. Quote:
There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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Thanks for all the tips guys. I bought some better bits today and some penetrating oil. I really need to buy an oxy-acetalene torch but I might settle for a cheapo torch from lowes.
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Im curious to know if the cheapo torch works so let me know if you can...
Im in the same boat |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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the little oxygen or mapp gas torches work just dandy for heating up the bolts to get the lock tight loose. now if you want to blow a bolt out well then your gonna need an oxy/actyl.
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Great Lake Jeep Thing My work http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/sparkys-garage-thread-790873/ |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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what is your best bet, if all the torx are rounded out?
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#13 |
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Registered User
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If the torx are all rounded out best bet is to weld a nut to them and take them out that way.
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#14 |
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Registered User
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I just removed my windshield TORX yesterday with the help of a propane torch and patience...
cheers Rob
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My JEEP is just a project until it becomes an obsession... http://i666.photobucket.com/albums/v.../yjsticker.jpg |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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use a impact wrench with the torx heads, thats how they were installed from the factory.
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258 str.6 w/1" mml, nuttered, 32/36 weber carb, hei, TF-999 w/hurst floor shift, np231 w/aa slip yoke eliminator, jks quick discos, 3-1/2" fabtech, 1" bl, MORE 5/8" boomerangs front and rear, dana 44's front and rear 4.56 locked, herculined tub and family style roll bar, jks u-bolt plates, xenon flat fenders, rrc pre-runner, custom built rear bumper, Gen-right rock sliders and hood louvers, 35" mtz micky t's, bullet proof high steer, bestop soft top w/tinted windows. 1988 yj 2007 gmc 2500 crew cab 2009 volvo xc70 turbo 1988 porsche 911 |
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