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Unread 03-11-2014, 09:40 AM   #16
Xpress
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I agree with the above. Fuel has about a 2 month shelf life before it's done for. Clean your carb, replace your filter, and run regular 87 octane gas in it, or the lowest you can buy. As stated, higher octanes need more compression to burn as hot, the 4.2L is not high compression.

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Unread 03-11-2014, 06:49 PM   #17
Wyogunman
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Well and lower octane fuels have a higher vapor pressure and that makes them more explosive. It will help your old gas gain a little vapor pressure and in turn help it run a little better. Mine sat around for four months and started hard for two tanks before I could get all that crappy gas out of it.
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Unread 03-11-2014, 06:57 PM   #18
Wyogunman
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The real reason you use high octane fuel in high performance vehicles is because it's a slower and more controlled burn rather than a more violent explosion you get with the lower stuff. It makes it hard on the high compression stuff
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Unread 03-14-2014, 08:09 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainauti View Post
just a thought..... if the idle circuit is clogged, wouldnt that cause idle issues, reguardless of fuel demand?

OP, 4 month old fuel could be bad. if the ethanol fuel you had in your tank has separated, and/or sludged up, you could have clogged up the carb. get a rebuild kit and go to it. and when ever you lay anything up with fuel in it, use startron.
Yes, idle could either be clogged or jammed. I will check it out. I might have to do a rebuild or just get a new one which looks easier to do.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 08:12 AM   #20
RCYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyogunman View Post
Well and lower octane fuels have a higher vapor pressure and that makes them more explosive. It will help your old gas gain a little vapor pressure and in turn help it run a little better. Mine sat around for four months and started hard for two tanks before I could get all that crappy gas out of it.
I siphoned out the other gas and put a couple gallons of 87. The engine starts out fine, but I could only idle when the engine is hot then I'm good to go.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 10:37 AM   #21
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Check the idle circuit might not flow enough fuel for the closed choke. Or the fuel could be dripping and spraying properly. Rebuild. Go for it.

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Unread 03-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #22
RCYJ
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Originally Posted by RCYJ View Post
I siphoned out the other gas and put a couple gallons of 87. The engine starts out fine, but IT CAN'T idle when the engine is hot.
Fixed my previous post.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 03:16 PM   #23
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rebuild it.
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Unread 03-14-2014, 07:31 PM   #24
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainauti View Post
...if the ethanol fuel you had in your tank has separated...
I would put my money on this. Carb rebuild kits are cheap. In the meantime, a double dose of isopropyl drygas might give you back your idle. Probably not- but it might. If not, rebuild the carb.
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Unread 03-15-2014, 09:36 AM   #25
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drygas is alcohol. if its ethanol, its already 10% alcohol. dont add more it will only draw moisture into the fuel and condense in the tank. get startron additive. it will aid in the burn of the ethanol, and lengthen the shelf life of it. ive never been a believer in additives, but having used it in the marine field and seen what it does, im sold. dump some in it, double dose first treatment. highly recommend it in anything that sits. rebuild that carb.
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Unread 03-17-2014, 02:02 PM   #26
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captainauti View Post
drygas is alcohol. if its ethanol, its already 10% alcohol. .............
Drygas bonds to water and removes it from the tank - isopropyl alcohol, not ethanol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainauti View Post
...get startron additive. it will aid in the burn of the ethanol, and lengthen the shelf life of it. ive never been a believer in additives, but having used it in the marine field and seen what it does, im sold...
Read the MSDS (they say to use alcohol-resistant foam to fight fire if it combusts)
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Unread 03-17-2014, 07:44 PM   #27
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yes, and with the ethanol fuels, every spring gallons of water is absorbed into large fuel tanks on boats. not nearly as an issue in the past with mtbe fuels. not going down the chemistry road here. just stating what works really well with fuels that sit for long periods.
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Unread 03-19-2014, 06:27 AM   #28
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Try this before rebuilding:

Remove the air filter and stud (if you have one) from the carb. Have your buddy or girl standing by to turn over teh engine. Get a tight knit rag and cover the top of the carb with your paw holding the rag to seal it to the mouth of the carb. Have whomever hold the pedal to the floor and turn the engine over for five second a few times. If there are any minor obstructions, this will pull them out. Replace the stud and filter and then change your fuel filter and dump in a bottle of sea foam and run it.

I've done this a bunch and avoided unnecessary rebuilds. If your baby is going to sit for some time, adding a fuel stabilizer is a good idea.
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Unread 03-22-2014, 10:28 PM   #29
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Autoparts store around my way didn't have startron but had seafoam. I did the seafoam thing but didn't do the towel thing (can I just press the throttle while I do this) because I didn't have my son to assist this time. After seafoam, it seemed to work for a while at idle but after driving around the parking lot it started to idle rough and stall sometimes especially when I'm during a sharp turn. I started to take apart the carb but ran into some bolts that may need special size tools. Dead end. So I was thinking maybe I just need to really drive the Jeep instead of just driving around the parking lot. I put the carb back together but didn't get a chance to drive around because I had to watch the kids. If the weather is good tomorrow I will drive it around even if it stalls sometimes. If that still doesn't work maybe rebuild or just get a new one and just bolt it in.
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Unread 03-27-2014, 07:23 AM   #30
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It's not a magic fix it formula - it is Naptha and Isopropyl Alchohol. Essentially low-octane 'white gas' and isopropyl drygas.
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