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Unread 09-11-2009, 07:11 AM   #16
Jeepsr4me19
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I was in the same boat as you. But just could not bring myself to buy a locker that was going into a stock carrier and the fact it was same price as a ARB locker. I know you would have to set the gears back up but if you go the route of the open carrier you may as well go all out and get a real locker.

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Unread 09-11-2009, 07:22 AM   #17
jonzer12
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Powertrax produces both the lockright and the no-slip. The no-slip is hands down the better locker if you run pavement. If your rig is trail only then buy the cheaper lock-right.
If I recall the no-slip is made of slightly better materials as well, but I don't know anyone who has broken a lock-right either so I won't consider that a factor. The no-slips can usually be found for track-lok carriers which is a bonus but they are easily the most expensive lunchbox lockers around.
I have owned 2 no-slips now and if I decide to keep my 8.25 I will be buying my third. If you DD the vehicle the extra 2 hundred is bucks is worth it in the long run. I payed $350 for my first when they just hit the market and I think I payed $410 for my last one.
Still 2 hundred less than a detroit and tons less than an ARB or OX and no labour costs. Unless you are regearing at the same time
I see no reason not to buy one.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 09:26 AM   #18
FuzznYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonzer12 View Post
Powertrax produces both the lockright and the no-slip. The no-slip is hands down the better locker if you run pavement. If your rig is trail only then buy the cheaper lock-right.
If I recall the no-slip is made of slightly better materials as well, but I don't know anyone who has broken a lock-right either so I won't consider that a factor. The no-slips can usually be found for track-lok carriers which is a bonus but they are easily the most expensive lunchbox lockers around.
I have owned 2 no-slips now and if I decide to keep my 8.25 I will be buying my third. If you DD the vehicle the extra 2 hundred is bucks is worth it in the long run. I payed $350 for my first when they just hit the market and I think I payed $410 for my last one.
Still 2 hundred less than a detroit and tons less than an ARB or OX and no labour costs. Unless you are regearing at the same time
I see no reason not to buy one.
I agree with this. I have had no problems driving in either of my two vehicles with lunchbox lockers. I love them for the price.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 10:34 AM   #19
Axl Jack
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I called Richmond and he gave me a part number. Then I called A&A and they say they have the locker for $350 but can't verify if its for an open or LS carrier (at that price I'm guessing open). He said normally its $450 but its on sale this month. A&A is overpriced, so I'm guessing its just one of the Lock-Rights

Jegs and Summit Racing both have it at $512.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 12:29 PM   #20
93YJfalcon
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Get an Aussie

I just dropped in an open carrier ($50) and checked the backlash and pattern to make sure it was OK and it was spot on. My 8.8 carrier shims are solid one piece type (I'm guessing all 8.8s are that way). I think there is no way to re-stack, add or subtract any shims to change the backlash without getting new shims and having them machined down.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 12:30 PM   #21
FuzznYJ
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Personally I would go pay the $70 or so dollars for an open carrier and buy a locker off of Ebay. I see some lock rites for 299 on there....... Like I said earlier, I got a used No-Slip on ebay for $225 that was hardly used.....
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Unread 09-11-2009, 05:58 PM   #22
Matt_vs_YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93YJfalcon View Post
Get an Aussie

I just dropped in an open carrier ($50) and checked the backlash and pattern to make sure it was OK and it was spot on. My 8.8 carrier shims are solid one piece type (I'm guessing all 8.8s are that way). I think there is no way to re-stack, add or subtract any shims to change the backlash without getting new shims and having them machined down.
The factory shims are indeed a solid piece that's machined to the proper thickness. However, you can buy carrier shim packs for about $12 that will allow you to make just about any shim size you want. Any gear install kit will have them too, but you don't need a whole kit just to change the carrier.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 06:02 PM   #23
Matt_vs_YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuzznYJ View Post
Personally I would go pay the $70 or so dollars for an open carrier and buy a locker off of Ebay. I see some lock rites for 299 on there....... Like I said earlier, I got a used No-Slip on ebay for $225 that was hardly used.....
Or, if you can find someone with a mustang that has an open rear, see if they're willing to trade for your trac-lok.

Or, you might find someone around here (like me )that has an extra open carrier sitting on the workbench taking up space that would part with it for much less then $70. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.
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Unread 09-11-2009, 06:06 PM   #24
FuzznYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_vs_YJ View Post
Or, you might find someone around here (like me )that has an extra open carrier sitting on the workbench taking up space that would part with it for much less then $70. Shoot me a pm if you're interested.
Holy smokes I would be sending that PM if I were you OP......
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Unread 04-10-2010, 07:33 PM   #25
fishgutz
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I paid the $500 for the Powertrax no-slip for the LS carrier in my F8.8.
Daily driver Jeep. So a lot of on road use. Maybe 10 off road trips. Today on the first URE trip of the season, it failed. Not bad enough that I couldn't drive home. But it is not locking anymore.
I have to open up the diff to see what the damage is. No horrific sounds of metal chunks floating around.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 07:44 PM   #26
MLJeeper
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Originally Posted by WCoon View Post
I thought only the No-Slip fit the 8.8 LS? If the lockright will fit here's one for $307 Powertrax Lock-Right Locker 1822-LR | Ford 8.8".
You are correct, it is called the no slip. I Put one in my BILs TJ. He gave ~$350 for it which is pricey but about equal to what your gonna pay for a different LBL and a open carrier to go with it. So it makes sense for that price. The locker worked flawlessly and has been beat on for a long time now and there have been no issues. Its also much smoother on the highway than the regular style lockrite. For what thats worth.

But if its really going to cost you upwards of $500 youd be silly not to go the OX or detroit locker route.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 08:21 PM   #27
fishgutz
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$489 to replace the powertrax with a new powertrax. Or ~300 for the one for the open diff plus ~100 for an open carrier. Plus setup labor.

Or I sell my YJ as is, by my wife a new Patriot so I can start building the 99 Cherokee we have.
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Unread 04-10-2010, 08:36 PM   #28
joshbaker92yj
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just tryed out my ford 8.8 and it has the no slip and workes great on and offroad with 36 sx swampers. havent really felt it react bad on or offroad
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Unread 04-10-2010, 08:45 PM   #29
yellow2kgt
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Just installing a carrier is not too hard. The most time consuming process in my experience with gear installs is setting the pinion depth then muscling a big breaker bar crushing the crush sleeve to set the preload. With just a carrier swap the pinion depth does not need to be changed. You will just need to get new bearings pressed onto the carrier. Before I bought my press I had good luck wrapping the bearings in foil and throwing them on my grill for a few minutes then dropping them on. You will probably need a shim pack which costs about $30 and a dial indicator. But, setting the backlash on an 8.8 is easy because the shims are outboard. Just make sure you drive them in straight or you may damage them. Folks seem to think setting up gears is some sort of black magic. It really is not that hard. You just need a few extra tools and lots of patience. It might take you several attempts to get the proper shims. However, after you do it a few times you get a feel about how much you need to change the shims to achieve the proper backlash.
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Unread 04-11-2010, 08:07 AM   #30
jeepnbrett
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I have the Powertrax No Slip in my LS 8.8 and a Lockrite in my Dana 30. There is a link on Richmonds website with detailed install instructions for specific applications. Install took about 60-90 minutes with no problems. As far as on road it is noticable like any other automatic locker as far as engagement and disengagement. There is no clicking in turns. There is an occational light pop or clang in when driving slow and parking. Off road it has been flawless. I am very happy with the performance of the no slip both on and off road.
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