I suppose enough people have seen my homemade pilot bearing puller, submitted yesterday.
I ran into problems on the bearing install. While the FSM makes a point about installing the new pilot bearing "Bearing seal must face transmission" in ALLCAPS and bolt print, I could not discern any difference between either end of my new pilot bearing. This apparently was a practical demonstration of the 50-50-80 rule which reads if there is only 2 ways to do something, then 80 percent of the time you will chose the wrong solution. I put mine in backwards, it would no longer turn when I checked it so there was another last minute dash to the parts store but they had one for $8. Turns out the new new one was not as long as the first new one, but I had the chance to compare them critically and noted that one end of the bearing race is sturdier/thicker and more flat. This would be the side to tap against. The end which goes into the end of the crank is rounded slightly, and is comparatively much thinner. So of course, I had chosen the wrong end. 50-50-80..... Another tip would be the part number is engraved on the face of the thicker end. If logic applies to automotive mechanics, it would make sense to be able to read a part number when the part is still installed. Photographs here for your comparison, In this photo, the THICK ends are shown, the shorter bearing has a beefier appearing "hit here with bearing driver" end:
In the next photograph, the more fragile ends are shown, they are installed facing the engine: IMG]http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c315/Opihi59/DSCN2943.jpg[/IMG]
I have installed at least a dozen or more pilot bearings in the last few years alone, but have never encountered this problem. This may of course be intuitive to many of the forum's experts, but hopefully this will help someone at some point from destroying the last spare pilot bearing available within 3000 miles, or on a Saturday evening of a 3 day weekend after the stores are closed up.