How do you know it won't go in? Have you measured the PB I.D. after install and compared that to the tranny snout? They will only be 2 or 3 thousandths clearance.
I ask this, because it is tricky to get everything aligned so that the trans pops into place. The PB bearing being only one of them. It is very critical that you use the alignment tool, and use it correctly, to get the spline clutch disk perfect. That means not letting the weight of the clutch assy droop when you set the clutch. Using a couple of 7/16" bolts with the heads cut off to align the bell housing to the engine helps a bunch.
Then it is possible you have an early PB by mistake. Your '94 should be nominal 0.750". And a 93 and earlier is a nominal 0.593". Easy to get the wrong bearing.
As for depth to install, I always compare the bearing length to the depth of the pocket, and measure how much snout I'm going to have sticking out. If in doubt, I make sure the PB is flush with the crank and that's usually how stuff was designed. Some of that isn't necessary if you're pulling and replacing same stuff. More important if you're doing some kind of conversion.
I suppose I can not be 100% but after an hour fighting it myself I waited till a friend could help. We lined everything up checked the clutch to make sure it was on the flywheel correctly etc. Tried a bunch of times but you could feel it hitting. Pulled the bell housing just to make sure it wasn't a spline issue. The output shaft starts in and just at the dept of the PB it hits solid again.
At that point I was pretty darn frustrated, ordered a new Timken bearing and waiting till cooler heads might prevail.
On my 4.2 there was a bushing that went in the crank, and then the PB went in that. Sort of an adapter. I got rid of the bushing when I converted to an AX15. I was replacing a needle pilot bearing with a bronze pilot bushing. I'm not sure what a '94 had originally. But an adapter bushing is very likely.
There is an inner space for a bushing, and an outer space for either a bearing or bushing. When I did my BA/10 to AX15 swap, I used the inner space for a bushing from a 1973 CJ5 with a 304 V8, the outer space is 1.055" I.D.
I might be misunderstanding you. But if you are saying that large bore is intended for a bushing, that is not correct. Nothing goes in that large area. That raised area creates the boss that the flywheel centers on, and it is hollowed out for clearance only.
You are correct that the bore on a 4.2 is about 1.055" diameter.
The thing about a needle bearing is that they are always thin wall by design. You could not have a needle bearing with a 1.055" O.D. and a 0.593" I.D. without some kind of bushing. That is why the original bushing existed.
You and I have gone to a bronze pilot bushing, which can be any wall thickness since there are no needles. So we get a pilot bushing with an 1.055" O.D. and either a 0.750" or 0.593" I.D. and drive it home. Eliminating the original bushing.
You are correct.....To clarify, you can use an Oilite Bronze bushing in the 1.055" O.D. bushing instead of a needle bearing. Personally, I'm not a fan of needle bearings for the pilot shaft because when they self destruct, they go big, where a bushing slowly wears. I can't remember what oilite bushing I used when I changed from a needle bearing to a bushing, or if I just made my own on my lathe when I still had my old trans, but I used a bushing in a bushing, if that makes sense. This was before I did the AX15 swap.
"But if you are saying that large bore is intended for a bushing, that is not correct. Nothing goes in that large area." If you see the pic below, yes, something is intended to go in there, OR in the smaller, inner recess.
I removed the needle bearing and installed a bronze bushing, this pic has the needle bearing
On any bearing or bushing that is going to be buried when installed, I test fit it to what ever its going to be attached to. Like sliding the pilot bearing over the main shaft to verify it will.. I too have found out only the hard way something did not fit till after a install ...
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