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Unread 10-24-2007, 04:17 PM   #16
sam.b.
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YJ-Jammer
does it make the 4.2 run better?? And what gains can you get from it?
it is one of the most amazing things you can do to your 4.2L
and its cheap or free if you already have the stuff

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Unread 10-24-2007, 05:22 PM   #17
wessy
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I have 2 dumb questions if you cut the wires between the dist plug that lead into the firewall and then attach new wires where do you put the new wires? Also how do you set 8 degrees before TDC? I have never done that before.
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Unread 10-24-2007, 06:50 PM   #18
smitkev2
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Your cutting the wires behind the distributor plug. Your then cutting the wires on the ignition module under the coolant overflow. At this point you have cut an ORANGE and PURPLE wire on both places (behind dist. plug and on the ignition module). Now the new wire is connecting the ORANGE TO ORANGE and PURPLE TO PURPLE between these two places you just cut. Your doing nothing to the orange and purple wire that goes into the firewall they just hang there cut. You only worry about the making sure that you connect the wires from the distributor plug to the ignition module.

Adjusting your timing is very simple. Lossen the bolt in the picture, then rotate the distributor counterclockwise. You will need a timing light to make sure you get the timing correct. You'll find some directions in the timing light you buy.
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Unread 10-25-2007, 01:04 PM   #19
wessy
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ok cool thanks what guage of wire should I use 16?

also I heard you had to do something whith the carb too or is it just the wire swap?
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Unread 10-25-2007, 02:20 PM   #20
kharmajavah
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You have to get the metering pins to extend all the way into the carb. The easiest way to do this is to remove the stepper motor from the carb (four screws in back), adjust the pins (it's one assembly; very easy) and reattach the motor onto the carb.

Then start snipping.

The carb thing sounds a lot stranger than it is...it's very straightforward.

EDIT: oh, and IIRC I used 16 gauge wire.
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Unread 10-25-2007, 02:30 PM   #21
smitkev2
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I did not post any pics or steps to the carb because I'm running an aftermarket Weber.
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Unread 10-25-2007, 09:11 PM   #22
YJ-Jammer
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thanks for the input. I hope it turns out like every other one i have saw on here.
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Unread 10-26-2007, 09:37 AM   #23
tsk350
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WE NEED THIS AS A STICKY IN THE CJ FORUM ASWELL!! GREAT JOB!!
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Unread 10-26-2007, 04:49 PM   #24
FarrellX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smitkev2
I did not post any pics or steps to the carb because I'm running an aftermarket Weber.

so being an aftermarket carb...you didnt need to adjust anything? or just didnt bother cause its different?
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Unread 10-26-2007, 08:18 PM   #25
hdfxrs91
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I do have one question, though, about setting the timing. The Haynes manual states to check it at 1600 rpm and it should read 8 BTDC. After the Nutter, would you still do it the same way or adjust it at idle? It turns out that I am getting some pinging and just wanted to get an opinion.
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Unread 10-27-2007, 08:04 AM   #26
atomicmoose
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Nice work. Pictures look very good.
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Unread 10-27-2007, 08:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdfxrs91
I do have one question, though, about setting the timing. The Haynes manual states to check it at 1600 rpm and it should read 8 BTDC. After the Nutter, would you still do it the same way or adjust it at idle? It turns out that I am getting some pinging and just wanted to get an opinion.
Set timing at curb idle. 700-800 RPM.
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Unread 10-27-2007, 10:28 AM   #28
hdfxrs91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atomicmoose
Set timing at curb idle. 700-800 RPM.
Cool... thanks.
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Unread 10-27-2007, 02:31 PM   #29
Stout95YJ
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whats a nutter bypass?-oops dont answer that
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Unread 10-28-2007, 12:01 PM   #30
wessy
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I'm also curious with the weber are there any other adjustments that need to be made?
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