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Unread 05-19-2013, 08:01 AM   #61
CBinDC
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I found it! It was covered with 24 years of grease and dirt. It just blended right into the firewall. Lol

So what is it that I need to do?

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Unread 05-19-2013, 08:28 AM   #62
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Mines a 93' so I'm not sure if they have the exact same harness. Do you have a plug that looks like this? If you do, open it and put a wire in the holes you see in the second pic to short it. Turn the key on, doesn't have to be running, just on. At that point you should have he 4x4 lite illuminated if not, check the bulb.


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Unread 05-19-2013, 09:08 AM   #63
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It looks like they may be different. Here is what mine looks like.



image-1031899789.jpg
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Unread 05-19-2013, 09:21 AM   #64
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Michael, I think this is the wire you were talking about. Am i supposed to disconnect it at the switch? What do you want me to do with it?



image-1487532569.jpg
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Unread 05-19-2013, 09:35 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Michael, I think this is the wire you were talking about. Am i supposed to disconnect it at the switch? What do you want me to do with it?
Yeah that's it. Kars is different because his electronics are at the cad. Stick a wire in one side so it won't come out and the. Ground the wire so you don't have to hold it. Turn the key on and see if the light comes on.
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Unread 05-19-2013, 09:38 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr

Yeah that's it. Kars is different because his electronics are at the cad. Stick a wire in one side so it won't come out and the. Ground the wire so you don't have to hold it. Turn the key on and see if the light comes on.
Stick it in the wire that's leading to switch (the one with the metal end)?
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Unread 05-19-2013, 10:28 AM   #67
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Alright, I put the wire in the metal end, grounded it, turned on the ignition, and no light.
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Unread 05-19-2013, 11:01 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Alright, I put the wire in the metal end, grounded it, turned on the ignition, and no light.
Did you put it in the round side that goes into the Jeep?

I figured your switch was bad but it's something in the cluster. I see no reason why tapping into the 12v won't fix this one too
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Unread 05-22-2013, 02:40 PM   #69
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I determined my switch (4x4) is still working so I'm moving onto the vacuum accuator (or the axle shift motor). I have a Chilton manual for my model and under the Functional test section for the Shift motor it states:

1) Raise and support the vehicle safely.

2) Disconnect the vacuum harness and connect a hand vacuum pump to the front port. Apply 15 in. Hg of vacuum to the front port and rotate the right front wheel to fully disengage the axle shafts.

3) The shift motor should maintain the the vacuum applied to the front port for a minimum of 30 seconds. If the motor does not maintain the vacuum, replace it. If the motor does, go to step 4.

4) Connect the vacuum pump to the rear port. Cap the port for the indicator lamp switch and apply 15 in Hg.

There are about 4 more steps to check if the motor is working but I have a few question.

Does the Jeep need to be in neutral, in gear, in 2wd or 4wd, does the battery need to be connected or not, and does the vehicle need to be turned on or off? Chiltons doesn't mention any of this.

I bought a hand pump at Harbor Freight and did all these things, except start the engine (I did turn the ignition on though). When I applied the 15 in. of vacuum the needle didn't budge at all. At one point I walked away, came back 10 mins later and the needle was still on 15 in.

How do I get the right front wheel to engage or disengage. I turned the wheel but it just rotates freely. Whats up? I'm missing something.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #70
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I'd say the Jeep is in park(auto) or neutral when you do it. Since you're applying vacuum the Jeep doesn't need to be on at all, not even the key. You're just testing the shift motor to make sure the diagram is good(which it sounds like to me).

The right wheel will always move freely because you have open differentials. So as far as I know that's okay.

Edit: I'd leave the battery connected but that's just me.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 03:05 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr
I'd say the Jeep is in park(auto) or neutral when you do it. Since you're applying vacuum the Jeep doesn't need to be on at all, not even the key. You're just testing the shift motor to make sure the diagram is good(which it sounds like to me).

The right wheel will always move freely because you have open differentials. So as far as I know that's okay.
Ok. However, on step 7 it states:

"7) Apply 15 in. Hg of vacuum to the shift motor rear port. Rotate the right front wheel to engage the axle shafts. The axles must be completely engaged!".

How do I engage them? I've spun the wheel with it in neutral and and in first, in 2wd and 4wd engaged, and the wheel spins freely. I went and rotated the left wheel and that spun freely, while in neutral, 1st gear, 2wd, and 4wd.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 03:14 PM   #72
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Does "engage" mean that both wheels spin at the same time?
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Unread 05-22-2013, 03:26 PM   #73
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In the first step it says to disconnect the vacuum harness and connect the hand pump to the front port. Does this mean to just disconnect the that one vac line off the front port or Ll the vac lines on the motor? To me disconnecting the harness implies all the lines. Then again, I'm not sure.
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Unread 05-22-2013, 04:38 PM   #74
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It just refers to locking the front two wheels together. With the whole front of the vehicle off the ground if you spin one wheel forward the other wheel should spin backwards. Sounds strange but it's true.

I'm not sure about the other vacuum questions
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Unread 05-22-2013, 05:23 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelgoesrawr
It just refers to locking the front two wheels together. With the whole front of the vehicle off the ground if you spin one wheel forward the other wheel should spin backwards. Sounds strange but it's true.

I'm not sure about the other vacuum questions
I've had the front end off the ground the entire time. I turn the right wheel and the left wheel doesn't move at all.
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