I have been thinking about what i'm going to do to for painting, it seems like by the time i get the spray gun all set up ( and buy one) it might just be cheeper to buy a ton of spray cans?? but my question is do you think lacer or 2 coats of enamel would hold up better?? another thing is , i know you can put a clear coat on lacer but is there a clear coat that can be sprayed ontop of enamel?? I say this cause we painted a piece of metal last winter with enamal and i think we put a lacer clear coat on which pretty much did the exact opposite of what i wanted it to do!! pretty much melted off. had to sand it and try again hahah... so if you could help me out so i don't have to learn the hard way!!!
I'm a big fan of the HVLP set up, it's just so much easier to get the results you want. Don't get me wrong, I have seen some fantastic rattle can jobs on here. But I'd use the right set up if you can. That being said, prep work and patiences are key to the process, whichever you choose to go with. Take your time, put down a couple light coats, probably going to need more than 2. I'd say 3-4 if you want it to look good and last. As for the clear coat...find a paintshop and use whatever they recommend. I wouldn't mix laquer and enamal products. Good luck!
Originally Posted by mean90yj
follow my logic on this one:
the people who say that drive tj's, tj's have round headlights...boobs are round....people who drive tj's are boobs.
You don't mix lacquer with base coat or enamel. If you use a base coat, there's a clear coat that goes with it, and it's not clear lacquer. You'll also need to understand things like surface preparation, additives, etc for the specific paint you plan to use and have everything ready before you start. A paint job is like building a house - the better the foundation, the better the house & the same applies to painting. I'd recommend talking to some painters for some tips and reading some articles on the process, there are lots available on the internet. Here's one that will cover some of the basics:
88yj, incubus off road wheels,32"tsl radial super swampers,2.5" pro comp lift ,kc lights,rock lights,8000lb.mile marker winch,best top bikini top,nutterbypass,lock right locker in the rear,TJ flares,poison spyder rock rails,home made front flat fenders,Skyjacker nitro 8000 shocks,procomp rear bumper,CB.more to come.
92yj,black with flame job.I have now added a 2003 wrangler,2"BB,dick cepek wheels ,trail armor all four corners,33" BFG-AT's.life is good.
That's absolutely true, I made an assumption that YJ_girl20 wanted a factory type paint job & that could have been a wrong assumption, so I guess that should be the first step & when that decision has been made, YJ_girl20 can post that & we can provide appropriate recommendations.
There are quite a few paint products that can be used to give a jeep a new appearance, some of them are easier to apply than others, and the end product will look as good as the effort that's gone into the preparation.
yeah , i'm not looking for a factory job....but also don't want it to look like someone came up and spray painted it. lol, it doesn't have to look to fancy just painted. i have numerous pieces that are all different colors, some primed and some bare metal.....sooooo its going to be quiet the array of steps. Don't you love ppl who jump into projects when they have no idea what they're doing!!!! hahaha
i would use a single stage paint. tractor paints are super easy to use and usually look really good. just take your time and don't spray to thick. many light coats are better than a few [heavy coats = (runs)]. You could also do the 50 dollar roll on job that i think looks good. just takes a while.
--Turner-- 2006 Jeep TJ 1982 Toyota Pickup 20r/22r Hybrid, 5.29s, Lockrite frt/spool rear, Longfields, Hysteer, discs, armor, dents, smiles. 1970 Ford Bronco302, dana 30, 9", 3 on the tree, show stopper.
Seriously, the Maaco option is not a bad one - especially if you do a lot of the prep. Those places can usually give you a decent job for less than you will spend purchasing all of the materials. I took my "short bus" tow vehicle that I bought at a school auction to a Earl Scheib's (www.earlscheib.com) here in Baltimore and they painted it for $299.00. I had already priced what it would cost for enough paint and thinner, etc. to paint it and it would have cost me more to do it myself. Plus, they were able to do it in one day and bake it under the lamps. I removed what I didn't want painted and scotchbrited and cleaned the rest and it came out great. Here is a recent pic of it on the track at Bristol Motorspeedway......(the one in front).
Depends on what you want it to look like..... I didn't care about how it looked so I painted the whole thing with black Rustoleum Hammered..... turned out great with three coats.
Just currious... how many cans did that take???
OP... if U have the time, then doing it yourself could be fun. HF has inexpensive spray guns. And as mentioned, a one part product could work, although a base/clear is better. Just depends on how much time/matreial U want to invest.
'92 YJ, 4.0, 5sp, 8.8 w/ 4.56's locked F&R, Teralow 4-1, HD SYE, BDS 5" SUA lifted on 35 MTR's. PSE front trail cage kit, 1ton TRE flip, 1"shackles, 1"BL, 1" MM. <><
Originally Posted by 80 CHOPPER
Knowledge is a tool, without knowledge, you are just a tool.