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Unread 09-19-2013, 12:47 PM   #46
timatoe
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The coolant doesn't "keep flowing" but it does get hotter. Say you're at 210 and you shut it down, there's no longer air flow across the radiator to cool it down yet there's still excess heat in the block and coolant that hasn't gotten to the radiator, that heat naturally dissipates throughout the system.

On mine for example I run an electric fan, frequently the fan continues to run for a bit after I turn off the ignition, other times I'll shut it down and it's just below temp where the fan would kick on, come out a few minutes later and the fan's running.

BTW, I agree if you're system is flushed and your pump is known good I'd lean toward the radiator.

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Unread 09-19-2013, 12:48 PM   #47
GrantYJ
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Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post

That doesn't make sense. Why would the hot coolant keep flowing. It stops flowing when I shut it off and that's why the temps go up. It stays cool when driving. Just when I shut it off the temps jump.
Your temp creeps up after you turn it off due to thermal soak. That's normal. Keep in mind, your gage is coming off the engine, not the radiator. When you turn it off, the coolant stops flowing and is heated to the actual temperature of the engine (thermal soak). As I said, this is perfectly normal.

Edit: timatoe beat me to it....
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #48
cgcarpenter
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Yes I understand that the coolant is gonna keep warming up because there is no flow. And the heat inside the block will continue to give off heat when the engine is shut off.

Rproject was saying I was still running hot and the coolant was still flowing after I was off.

I'm just wondering if and how bad the thermal soak is and if it could damage to my piston rings or head gasket or something when the temp gets up to 240+ After shutting it off.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #49
GrantYJ
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If you've got good flow through the radiator, it's not full of crap in the cooling fins, and it isn't leaking, then your radiator should be fine (...it's a radiator, not a missile guidance system). If it's only heating up when your sitting stationary (or close to it) in traffic, put a shroud on it and move on. Your problem will go away.

The guys who are saying they get along fine in 100+ weather sitting at idle with all accessories going most likely have multiple core radiators that are doing a better job at cooling. I have a '74 F250 with a 390 and no shroud that does just fine; however the four banger in my YJ just won't tolerate it. After I did my CJ front clip swap I ran without a shroud until I got around to putting my e-fan in. It acted just like what you're describing now. Temps were fine until the weather was hot and I was sitting in a drive through or in heavy traffic.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:00 PM   #50
Luuca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post
That doesn't make sense. Why would the hot coolant keep flowing. It stops flowing when I shut it off and that's why the temps go up. It stays cool when driving. Just when I shut it off the temps jump.
The temperature of any water-cooled gas/diesel engine in any car/truck rises after the engine is shut off. The heat is no longer being "removed" from the system. The heated water, block etc. sit there and the engine block transfers it's heat to the water inside as well as the air around it. The temp will rise once it's off, but starting it up should pull the temps down.

I think your problem is two-fold.

1. No radiator shroud to help guide and direct the air through the radiator. This will help around town greatly.

2. Your radiator is most likely partially clogged. AFTER you put on the shroud, drive it for a while and see how well it handles the low speed cooling.
if there is still an issue, replace the radiator. I'm fairly sure you can get one from RockAuto.com for $95
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:01 PM   #51
Que89YJ
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It should but not to 230-240. The temp shouldnt be that high when running. Temp rise is normal when shutting it off. #1 The fan shroud for sure. #2 checking the sensor resistance to make sure it is right, #3 pressure test the system, it tells you if you have a compression leak to the coolant too #4 if the timing is advanced you will generate too much heat and if it is running too lean. Since you are running the Holly Carb you have the Nutter bypass done. It is possible that your timing when they set it is too far advanced. Do you hear any preignition knock? Last but not least the radiator
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:18 PM   #52
cgcarpenter
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Originally Posted by Que89YJ It should but not to 230-240. The temp shouldnt be that high when running. Temp rise is normal when shutting it off. #1 The fan shroud for sure. #2 checking the sensor resistance to make sure it is right, #3 pressure test the system, it tells you if you have a compression leak to the coolant too #4 if the timing is advanced you will generate too much heat and if it is running too lean. Since you are running the Holly Carb you have the Nutter bypass done. It is possible that your timing when they set it is too far advanced. Do you hear any preignition knock? Last but not least the radiator



It ONLY gets that hot when turned off after driving which is what scares me. Which is why I'm wondering is if when OFF the temps getting 230-240 is dangerous to anything.

And it has the fuel injection swap not the Holley carb. So idk if there is any thing that could make that run hotter.

And the inside of the radiator does not look good but after flushing it the coolant is flowing better then it did.

I can get a stock radiator for 90 bucks at the local auto store but who knows how much that will help. I would prefer a aftermarket one but it's not my jeep and not my money to spend.

And yes if will be pressure testing and checking the temp sensor on Monday.
And trying to find a shroud this weekend.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:31 PM   #53
Que89YJ
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Didn't understand the fi swap. Does it have the hesco with the crank sensor on the front or the production with the sensor on the top of the bell housing? That changes the last one but the others are still in the priority I would do them.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 01:51 PM   #54
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post
Yes I understand that the coolant is gonna keep warming up because there is no flow.

Rproject was saying I was still running hot and the coolant was still flowing.

I'm just wondering if and how bad the thermal soak is and if it could damage to my piston rings or head gasket or something when the temp gets up to 240+ After shutting it off.
It's fine. High temps destroy running engines due to expansion. You'd have to approach 400° in an engine that was off in order to do damage. When you restart the engine, coolant starts flowing and takes care of the problem for you. This isn't isolated to this vehicle. If you have a water cooled combustion engine with an engine driven pump (basically anything but "special use" engines) this occurs.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 02:00 PM   #55
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
Didn't understand the fi swap. Does it have the hesco with the crank sensor on the front or the production with the sensor on the top of the bell housing? That changes the last one but the others are still in the priority I would do them.
I'm not sure exactly. I think they said it was a Holley but they might have meant Howell I'll have to check.
Does the the crank sensor spot matter?
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Unread 09-19-2013, 02:01 PM   #56
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrantYJ
It's fine. High temps destroy running engines due to expansion. You'd have to approach 400° in an engine that was off in order to do damage. When you restart the engine, coolant starts flowing and takes care of the problem for you. This isn't isolated to this vehicle. If you have a water cooled combustion engine with an engine driven pump (basically anything but "special use" engines) this occurs.
Thanks GrantYJ. Puts my mind at easy a lot.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 02:05 PM   #57
Que89YJ
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No it doesn't matter. I just want to see how they set and control advance on the howell. If you don't hear the pre ignition knock it should be fine.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 02:14 PM   #58
GrantYJ
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Originally Posted by cgcarpenter View Post

Thanks GrantYJ. Puts my mind at easy a lot.
No problem at all. Good luck with it, but I'm guessing that a shroud will cure it's ills.
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Unread 09-19-2013, 02:17 PM   #59
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ
No it doesn't matter. I just want to see how they set and control advance on the howell. If you don't hear the pre ignition knock it should be fine.
I'll check it out and let you know
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Unread 09-19-2013, 03:59 PM   #60
Rproject
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Follow Que89YJ. VERY knowledgeable person. I know what has worked for me on the past. Q has TONS more experience than I do.
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