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Unread 09-15-2013, 03:53 PM   #1
cgcarpenter
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So my girl friend just bought a 89 yj 4.2 with a holly FI swap and it crazy mint condition with a single dent in the front right panel being the only exception.

So as said its starting to over heat VERY slowly on the streets and runs about 230 on the freeway. And as soon as you get off the free way the temp raises rapidly. It blew the old bypass hose so I replaced it and the coolant. It has a new water pump already. Yes the correct one. The t-stat is opening. It does not have a fan shroud. Is it supposed to?

The thing I have the biggest concern about is when I was burping the system the engine got to temp and the tstat opened it seamed like the coolant was flowing to the radiator quicker than through it. When I first filled the radios it filled up fine but when on it seamed like it maybe clogged or the pump was moving fast enough to push the coolant and it was just starting to over flow in the radiator.

Any help would be great thanks

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Unread 09-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #2
Reno72
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Yes the shroud is important, especially when not moving. You say the rad is new and thermostat is correct temp but don't say if the thermostat is new, if not I'd put a new one in. I think the pump will always pump faster than the water will go through the thermo opening, but if it's pouring out of the top, sounds like it's got a blockage somewhere.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:29 PM   #3
88_yj
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Check out the flowkooler water pump I installed one on my 88 with 4.2 and I love it. It pumps twice as much at idle and the same as stock when on the highway


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Unread 09-15-2013, 06:35 PM   #4
jsawduste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88_yj View Post
Check out the flowkooler water pump I installed one on my 88 with 4.2 and I love it. It pumps twice as much at idle and the same as stock when on the highway


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An even better choice is http://www.hesco.us/products/7967/high-flow-water-pumps which features a machined impeller rather then simple stamped steel parts.

No shroud = poor air flow through the radiator. Get a shroud.

The YJ`s that came with factory air have a different pitch to the engine fan that pulls more air through the radiator.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 08:58 PM   #5
88_yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsawduste View Post
An even better choice is http://www.hesco.us/products/7967/high-flow-water-pumps which features a machined impeller rather then simple stamped steel parts.

No shroud = poor air flow through the radiator. Get a shroud.

The YJ`s that came with factory air have a different pitch to the engine fan that pulls more air through the radiator.
Does look a lot nicer with the machined impeller the flowkooler one is basically a flat plate welded to the stock impeller.
Mine works well with the flowkooler water pump 180 thermostat and 4 core radiator and no shroud even in the 112 heat of Texas. It'll idle at 1/4 gauge all day long


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Unread 09-15-2013, 09:46 PM   #6
cgcarpenter
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The radiator is NOT new. The water pump is. I'm not sure about the t-stat I was gonna check this week. Where can I get a shroud? I'm getting fluid to the top of the radiator but It seems like its going through the radiator very slowly.
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Unread 09-15-2013, 09:52 PM   #7
88_yj
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Is it the correct water pump clockwise verse counterclockwise


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Unread 09-15-2013, 10:41 PM   #8
Reno72
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Those water pumps are nice, but if the stock new one is working it's something else. I'd replace the thermostat, it's a cheap fix if it works. Looking into the radiator do you see corrosion around the rows? Was this jeep taken through mud which could be clogging the fins? Sometimes they look clean but are shut up with dry mud. If you go with a new radiator, go with a 3 row aluminum. The fan shroud I'd pick up at a junk yard, if you want a new one look here. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fan-shroud-52004214.html
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Unread 09-15-2013, 11:30 PM   #9
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88_yj
Is it the correct water pump clockwise verse counterclockwise

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I believe it is. Is there a way to check without taking it off.
It has a serpentine belt not v-belts.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 03:14 AM   #10
timatoe
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Serpentine belt systems use the reverse rotation pump. I'd flush the system and see if that helps.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 07:45 AM   #11
Rproject
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Yup, serpentine units use the reverse rotation pump. V-belts use straight rotation.

If you're overflowing the radiator, you may have the wrong rotation pump. Do you still have your receipt from the new water pump? If so, check the part number to ensure you have a reverse rotation pump. If you have the correct pump, do a system flush. You may have some crap in the system that needs to be pushed out.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:00 AM   #12
cgcarpenter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject
Yup, serpentine units use the reverse rotation pump. V-belts use straight rotation.

If you're overflowing the radiator, you may have the wrong rotation pump. Do you still have your receipt from the new water pump? If so, check the part number to ensure you have a reverse rotation pump. If you have the correct pump, do a system flush. You may have some crap in the system that needs to be pushed out.
The radiator isn't overflowing till after the tstat opens I believe which makes me think the radiator might be clogged or something. Which is why the bypass hose blew because there was to much pressure at the top of the system. Does that makes sense at all or do I sound like an idiot lol
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:02 AM   #13
Que89YJ
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Overheating on the freeway; check your fan clutch when cold to make sure it spins free. The fan shroud directs the fans drawing of air across the radiator so yes you need one. You said you burped it, how? I have a flust T on the hose coming off of the tstat for the heater core. I let the air out there. 230 is too high. The temp going up when you come off of the freeway is thermal soak and it should go up but since you are high already it is really not good.
Check the temp sensor to make sure it is accurate.
Pressure test your coolant system to see if there is an issue.
Replace the radiator cap.
Flush the coolant system, look at getting a new radiator if it looks blocked or the fins are damaged.
One more possibility. I am not as familiar with the Hesco MPFI put there is a possibility that your timing is too advanced. It will cause it to run hot.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:04 AM   #14
Que89YJ
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You can get the pressure tool from the tool loan program at any of the big parts stores. Here is the chart for the sensor.
yjgaugespecs.jpg

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Unread 09-16-2013, 08:27 AM   #15
Rproject
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The fan and fan clutch only affect the temps when you're going slow or at a stop. At speed, the air being forced across the radiator is enough to keep it cool. Even 110 degree heat is way cooler than 215 degree antifreeze.

A few months ago I was having a nightmare or a time keeping my temps down. Between power washing the hell out of the radiator and doing a system flush, I'm now struggling to get her up to temp.

I run without a shroud because the shroud and a/c condenser wouldn't let me get to all of the radiator areas to properly clean them.
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