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-   -   osburn, i welded my front perches at (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/osburn-i-welded-my-front-perches-6788/)

JYRUS 02-26-2002 01:46 AM

osburn, i welded my front perches at
 
i welded my front perches on at 2 degrees over stock on my yj sring over project. i am running stock spring with full length rancho add a leaf and boomerang shackles. will this be ok. i was told to weld them on at stock degree and RE told me 2-4 degrees over stock so i just split the difference because my steering is more important right. also will i have a problem of my leafs hitting my drag link on the pass. side like i hear people talking about?

Tailgummer 02-26-2002 03:37 PM

JYRUS, you should be OK with 2deg. As I recall I put mine at 3 and was within nominal dimensions for alignment. Yes, you will drag the tie rod against your pass. side spring under full articulation. Eventually you will see some bending. It has not been a big problem for mine as I do more damage when I hit rocks and stumps and replaced it several time for that reason. I have tried a few different fixes. If you are still using your stock springs you might try this. I took my rear trac bar (which you removed, right?)cut the ends off and welded on some 11/16' bungs on the ends. I threaded a new set of tie rod ends into them and used that as my tie rod. It is "Z" shaped and added a little more clearance under the spring. Would work fine under stock springs but I am now running 2"BDS springs on my SOA so it again rubs a little under full articulation. I may end up going with the MORE steering correction kit.
Good luck. You will enjoy your SOA once you get it debugged. I love mine.
PS start thinking about anti wrap bars. The RE spring perches by themselves do not solve the problem. There are easy fixes available tho'.

JYRUS 02-26-2002 05:34 PM

does MIT still make the drop drag link? also do you still have good power with your 35s and 4.56s? could you explain the rear track bar thing a lil better. thanks

JYRUS 02-26-2002 05:36 PM

does MIT still make the drop drag link? also do you still have good power with your 35s and 4.56s? could you explain the rear track bar thing a lil better. thanks

osburn 02-26-2002 08:28 PM

I would guess your perches are going to be fine. We've always set them parallel, but if RE says rotate them a little, I'm sure they've tested it.

I believe MIT still sells the drop drag link. They're located in El Cajon, CA and you can find them in the www.switchboard.com directory or any other I'm sure.

Tailgummer 02-27-2002 05:36 PM

If you take the old trac bar from the rear and cut off the bushings from the ends, you will notice the bar is hollow with very thick wall steel (about 1/4-5/16"). Buy a pair of weld in threaded bungs from Speedway Motors (MORE also has them). I had to turn down the insertable end of the bung till it fit in the trac bar tube. Insert the bung and tie rod end on the short side of the trac bar and fit the bar in your jeep. This way you can determine how much to trim off the long end which will go under the spring. Mine was trimmed about 5". Insert the other bung, weld them both and assemble the other tie rod end with lock nuts. Install in jeep and torque. With stock springs you should have enough clearance to prevent rubbing. With 2" springs, it will rub just a touch under max articulation.
As far as 35" tires on 4.56 gears goes, I have plenty of power still More than I had in stock form but I had 3.07 gears when it was stock. I ran 33" BFG's tires until just recently and actually liked that combo better than 35". But I love the clearance and traction of these new tires. I don't think I'd go with 4.88's unless I changed my front axle also. A D30 is marginal with the setup I have. Putting more of a load is asking for broken parts.
If you want some pics of the bar send me an email and I'll email some to you.


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