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Unread 12-01-2014, 02:37 AM   #1
GAA2005
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One Click No Start

So the other day I reached in to start my Jeep to warm it up and did not realize I had it in gear. So it jumped forward a foot or so and then would only click once when I tried to start. Jumping forward, battery tests good, replaced starter, double checked battery by switching one from my truck, and replaced tps (threw code 24). It will push start just fine, but nothing with the key. Any suggestions? I also did switch the relays around just to make sure that was not it either and it won't start with a jump.

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Unread 12-01-2014, 02:50 AM   #2
fishadventure
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Well don't leave it in gear when you do this- ahem- so you don't run yourself over but cross the contacts at the starter and see if that does it. At that point at least you will know if the starter is the issue. But it smells of a battery cable issue to me.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 05:27 AM   #3
GAA2005
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Originally Posted by fishadventure View Post
Well don't leave it in gear when you do this- ahem- so you don't run yourself over but cross the contacts at the starter and see if that does it. At that point at least you will know if the starter is the issue. But it smells of a battery cable issue to me.
I was thinking that, of even maybe the ignition switch.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 07:21 AM   #4
GAA2005
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I have been looking online for cables at Advance, but the positive cable they want to sell me is 6.5' long. I know that is some crazy sh*t. Anyone know a part number or a better way of getting these cables?

Does anyone think that this could also be the switch? I hate to keep throwing parts at it.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 07:31 AM   #5
ashland82391
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I don't think it is your ignition switch. Your clearly getting some power to your starter solinoid (thats the clicking) so the switch is working as it should. Start with the basics. Battery, electrical connection, starter. Easy stuff.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 08:04 AM   #6
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAA2005 View Post
I have been looking online for cables at Advance, but the positive cable they want to sell me is 6.5' long. I know that is some crazy sh*t. Anyone know a part number or a better way of getting these cables?

Does anyone think that this could also be the switch? I hate to keep throwing parts at it.
Make your own cables.
This a pretty good video on how to make them. I do not agree to not use heat shrink though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkMdlPsBxkc
You will need a ternimal like this to connect your new cables.
http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...l#.VHyDTCvcy38
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Unread 12-01-2014, 08:29 AM   #7
mike134
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Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position?
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Unread 12-01-2014, 08:56 AM   #8
GAA2005
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Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post
I don't think it is your ignition switch. Your clearly getting some power to your starter solinoid (thats the clicking) so the switch is working as it should. Start with the basics. Battery, electrical connection, starter. Easy stuff.
Battery is good, even swapped one out from my truck. Brand new starter, no obvious signs of corroded cables. Relay good.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 08:56 AM   #9
GAA2005
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Does the CEL come on when you turn the key to the ON position?
Yes, and it shows the standard codes now 12, 33,55.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 09:05 AM   #10
ashland82391
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Originally Posted by GAA2005 View Post

Battery is good, even swapped one out from my truck. Brand new starter, no obvious signs of corroded cables. Relay good.
Just because its new doesnt make it good. Do a voltage drop on the cables. Quick and easy way to find out if there good or not.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 09:15 AM   #11
GAA2005
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Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post

Just because its new doesnt make it good. Do a voltage drop on the cables. Quick and easy way to find out if there good or not.
I thought about that, I will do when I get home. I would just need to ground my multimeter to the frame and test the positive lead correct?
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Unread 12-01-2014, 09:29 AM   #12
ashland82391
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Originally Posted by GAA2005 View Post

I thought about that, I will do when I get home. I would just need to ground my multimeter to the frame and test the positive lead correct?
Ground it to the negitive terminal of the battery.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 12:12 PM   #13
GAA2005
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Originally Posted by ashland82391 View Post

Ground it to the negitive terminal of the battery.
I just feel like there is more to it, like I fried something else when I started it in gear. Which I still cannot believe that I did that.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 01:02 PM   #14
dancytron
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAA2005 View Post
I have been looking online for cables at Advance, but the positive cable they want to sell me is 6.5' long. I know that is some crazy sh*t. Anyone know a part number or a better way of getting these cables?

Does anyone think that this could also be the switch? I hate to keep throwing parts at it.
The easiest way to deal with replacing the battery cables is to get marine terminals and then plain cables that are lugged on each end. Go up a size or 2. Any good auto parts store should be able to set you up. If not, then someplace that works on tractors or big trucks.

They give you more flexibility too in case you want to add lights or a winch later.
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Unread 12-01-2014, 01:26 PM   #15
mike134
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Originally Posted by GAA2005 View Post
I just feel like there is more to it, like I fried something else when I started it in gear. Which I still cannot believe that I did that.
I doubt it. Some people use the starter while in gear to get the wrangler off the trail/highway/train tracks/off the trap door over the acid shark alligator pit if the engine dies. Some people even put in dual batteries specifically for this purpose in case they feel the need to drive it a quarter mile down the road without an engine.
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