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Unread 08-23-2009, 10:54 AM   #31
humbert810
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Use an oxy-act torch and cut between the shackle and the spring. Just don't get the hangers too hot take our time and go in spurts. Cut a little bit of the eye of the spring away with the torch to give you a bigger opening to get to the sleeve in there. Once you booger up that sleeve with the torch you can take the air impact and spin the bolt fast and either it will break the sleeve or break free and come out. Just do that until it comes out. Did that on ALL 4 of mine with no problems.

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Unread 08-23-2009, 07:18 PM   #32
southbound
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I finished the install today around 6:30 in the evening. All in all, it was about 14 hours of work. Hard work too . I had to jack the Jeep up and sit it on two jack stands. If I would have had an actual lift things would have been much faster and easier, yet sometimes you have to make do. I didn't trust the stands that much, so this made removing some parts more difficult. There was no way in hell I was going to stick anything more than an arm under there. I like my Jeep, but not enough to die for it; but an arm I could sacrifice . The u-bolts came off really easy. I soaked them everyday up for a week with PB Blaster and again during removal. They all screwed right off, no problem at all. Granted I was using a 2 ft. breaker bar to get those first 5 or 6 turns going!

Anyways, the job is done and I'm thrilled with the results. This lift was exactly what I wanted. The perfect stance, but not too tall . It leveled the vehicle out very well. The yellow shocks look cool too. I'm uploading the pictures now and will have them up within the hour...

Last edited by southbound; 08-23-2009 at 07:37 PM..
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Unread 08-23-2009, 07:20 PM   #33
jbolty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinefuel View Post
Those are the exact same ones that are locked on my jeep. They are frozen. Today I am going to the hardware store and shop for some sawzall blades. I am going to be doing a lot of bolt cutting on the shackle bolts, and the axle u-bolts. Seems like way to much effort, and a waste of time to get those bolts off with sockets and wrenches when you are not going to be reusing them anyways.
right anlge grinder will be 100x faster.

the ubolts are under a lot of tension. be careful when cutting them.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 07:48 PM   #34
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Here are the pictures of the OME 2.5" lift installed on a 1995 Jeep YJ Sahara -












Last edited by southbound; 08-24-2009 at 08:08 PM..
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Unread 08-23-2009, 08:03 PM   #35
moonshinefuel
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Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
right anlge grinder will be 100x faster.

the ubolts are under a lot of tension. be careful when cutting them.
Good advice, thanks. I will keep that in mind. Are you talking about an angle grinder with a 4 inch disc? I have one of those also. My concern with my angle grinder was using it for the stuck bolts on the front side of the rear springs. I don't want to damage the metal mount that is welded to the frame. A spinning disc may accidently chop into it, not sure. But the u bolts are another story, can hack into those with a grinder no problem. I'll have both on the ready. But yes spring tension is important to keep in mind. I think I am going to release the front and rear shackles bolts before the u bolts.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 08:12 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinefuel View Post
Good advice, thanks. I will keep that in mind. Are you talking about an angle grinder with a 4 inch disc? I have one of those also. My concern with my angle grinder was using it for the stuck bolts on the front side of the rear springs. I don't want to damage the metal mount that is welded to the frame. A spinning disc may accidently chop into it, not sure. But the u bolts are another story, can hack into those with a grinder no problem. I'll have both on the ready. But yes spring tension is important to keep in mind. I think I am going to release the front and rear shackles bolts before the u bolts.
cut both ends off the bolts on the frame eye end of the spring, cut inside the bracket if you can. there is enough room if you're careful. Alternatively you can cut on the outside then spread the bracket ever so slightly to get the bolt out.

your enemy is the metal sleve that the bolt goes into, it will be seaized to the bolt. cutting is the only way.

if you cut inside the bracket you might have to cut half the bolt then turn it around to cut the other side. as the disk wears it will not reach all the way through, unless you have about a 5" wheel.

the tension on the ubolts is not from the springs but from the 95-100 ft lbs of torque on them.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:04 PM   #37
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Here are some before and after pictures. The Jeep still have the stock rims and 29" tires on. I'm planning on keeping the rims; I really like the way they look. But eventually plan on going to 31's when these tires wear out. The pictures show the amount of the lift and leveling achieved by the system. I hope these help anyone who is contemplating whether or not to go with OME. I looked all over the net trying to find a before and after shot of the kit installed on a YJ with stock tires, but had no luck. Anyways, here it is-


Before the lift:




Once again, after the 2.5" OME lift:


Last edited by southbound; 08-24-2009 at 08:14 PM..
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:30 PM   #38
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Also, I getting a vibration at 40mph and above. Did any of you guys have issues with this?

Here is a link to the thread I started about it (with pictures)-

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/v...-angle-843363/
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:31 PM   #39
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Now it's time for some TJ flares! More work!
Vibes, uh-oh, edit in here. 4 degrees on the shim?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:41 PM   #40
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Moonshine, since you just installed your kit, did you have any vibration issues with the rear drive shaft like I just stated above?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:46 PM   #41
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Moonshine, since you just installed your kit, did you have any vibration issues with the rear drive shaft like I just stated above?
Actually I have not installed it yet. You are ahead of me. Your rear springs look right. You lowered the transfer case. What degree shim is in it now? 2 degrees? Because I don't know myself. I never asked the degree of the shim OME sets in there.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:51 PM   #42
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What degree shim is in it now? 2 degrees? Because I don't know myself. I never asked the degree of the shim OME sets in there.
My kit didn't come with any shims. Nor did I have any on the old leaf springs or on the bottom of the axle. I thought this kit was supposed to come with everything one would need, so I'm a bit perplexed. Maybe Quadratec left the shims out by accident, but I never saw them in the list of included items with the kit on the web...
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:54 PM   #43
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I think the idea is, you want the driveshaft angled down some from the transfer case to the rear differential exactly like yours is. And then, when you hit the gas pedal, the driveshaft comes close to parallel, but not quite. But the shim is wrong?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 09:58 PM   #44
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Yes, that is strange. You have 2.5 lift? Are you sure it did not come with shims for the rears? The fronts dont need shims, so they wont have them. Look on my profile, I have a few pictures of my rear leaf springs with shims, you say you did not have any?
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Unread 08-23-2009, 10:18 PM   #45
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Hope this does not sound the wrong way. I need to ask. You did put the rear emu springs on the rear, and the front emu springs on the front right? And the + stamps on the all of the springs should be facing forward, to the front of the vehicle.
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