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Unread 08-11-2009, 10:49 PM   #16
southbound
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I have a Dremel with a dozen or so cutting wheels, so I shouldn't have a problem cutting off the old u-bolts . I think simply cutting them off is going to be the best course of action. I'm assuming that I will need three floor jacks and some chalks for the tires. This will be my first suspension install, so I want to get this right the first time. I already have a building with plenty of space for maneuvering and a nice roof (I'm used to working outside in my driveway and at the mercy of the weather). I'm going to order the kit NLT Friday, so I'll let you guys know how it goes (before and after pics etc...).

Thanks again for the advice and pictures. When doing one of these projects to my Jeep, I've found over the years that some good research and solid advice from others often saves me a lot of headaches and money in the end.

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Unread 08-11-2009, 10:58 PM   #17
jbolty
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do yourself a favor and get a $15 harbor freight right angle grinder. cutting all those bolts will take forever with a dremel. I have about 3 of them. keep a cutting wheel, wire brush and a grinder on each to avoid changing all the time.

jack stands under the frame. do one end at a time. there is a lot of tension on the ubolts so be careful when you cut them.

don't over stretch the soft brake lines.
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Unread 08-11-2009, 11:10 PM   #18
DriveTooMuch
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Sweet, all of them look really good. Looks like mine is going to be more like Jboltys. I have TJ flares I am going to be installing, and probably shell out for booms on the front too, I already have them for the rears, 5/8. TJ flares give you a little more room, and make for a easy rocker guard install. Though I am thinking more of alloy rocker guards if I can afford them.
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Unread 08-12-2009, 06:02 PM   #19
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About the shims. My kit came with 1in pucks that go between the skidpan and the frame, made to lower the t-case down by a inch, and the shims that came on the springs are made to work with the lowering pucks to make a stock rear driveshaft live back there.
I already had a SYE and CV driveshaft, so I did NOT install the lowering pucks (giving me a slightly steeper rear driveshaft angle) and added diffrent shims to adjust my driveshaft angle and make my particular setup work. By the way, the original shims that were on my OME springs were aluminum.
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'93 YJ 4.0L, AX-15, NP-231HD/SYE, 8.8in rear, OME 2.5 lift, WJ knuckle/brake conversion, hydroboost. Warn M10000 winch. Hope to some day build a stroker for it.

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Unread 08-12-2009, 06:36 PM   #20
giggityjeeper
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I just giggle all the time while wheeling, the flex is mad, easy install, and took like 3-5 hours, took sways and tracs off as well...





Hangin Loose.....almost broke my brake line...










I cannot say enough gooder things about these, I have pics of the install as well if you like....

and from the last pic although I have not done it yet, I would recommend longer brakes lines IF you remove the sway in the front, my shock tops out first, only thing saving me from breaking.
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Unread 08-12-2009, 07:10 PM   #21
southbound
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Giggity, if you could post those install pics that would be great. Thanks!
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Unread 08-14-2009, 10:21 AM   #22
giggityjeeper
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well I could but they dont really show much, it was pretty straight forward, take off, put on, only goes one way really, I did not get new shims, I just reused the old, and used the tcase drop pucks.
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Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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Unread 08-14-2009, 02:05 PM   #23
moonshinefuel
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I have the 2.5 EMU springs already. I installed the rest of the emu bushings last night into the springs, which does take more time than it looks! Greasing them and setting them, etc. I am going to be using currie shackles on mine, and using the emu bushings for the shackles. I see something that might hold me up, and I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this and may have a take. The picture is looking up into the back of the drivers side rear shackle spring bushing. I have to get this stuff out of there. What I am seeing though is a close proximity to the gas tank. Am I going to have to drop the gas tank to get the bushings in the frame mounts? And I don't see that top bolt coming out without cutting it. So, it looks like I will have to sawzall the bolt in between the bushing and just cut correct? But that still leaves a close tolerance to get the bushing in, has anybody been able to get new bushings in there with the gas tank so close?
Plus, I am definitely going to have to sawzall some bolts, no question.
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Unread 08-14-2009, 02:52 PM   #24
jbolty
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no, there is enough room to get it out. The bushing is two parts and when half is out there is enough room to wiggle the rest out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by moonshinefuel View Post
I have the 2.5 EMU springs already. I installed the rest of the emu bushings last night into the springs, which does take more time than it looks! Greasing them and setting them, etc. I am going to be using currie shackles on mine, and using the emu bushings for the shackles. I see something that might hold me up, and I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this and may have a take. The picture is looking up into the back of the drivers side rear shackle spring bushing. I have to get this stuff out of there. What I am seeing though is a close proximity to the gas tank. Am I going to have to drop the gas tank to get the bushings in the frame mounts? And I don't see that top bolt coming out without cutting it. So, it looks like I will have to sawzall the bolt in between the bushing and just cut correct? But that still leaves a close tolerance to get the bushing in, has anybody been able to get new bushings in there with the gas tank so close?
Plus, I am definitely going to have to sawzall some bolts, no question.
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Unread 08-22-2009, 09:30 PM   #25
southbound
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Started the install today. I'm done with the front. PB Blaster saved me on the u-bolts (they all came right off). I lowered the Jeep down after it was finished and I have to say the stance is perfect, even with the rear sagging.

Now the rear went really smoothly until I decided the remove the leafs from the front shackles. The bolts had completely seized on both the driver and passenger sides. I broke 2 sockets trying to get just the drivers side bolt off (luckily they're Craftsman, so I'll be making a trip to Sears tomorrow morning for free replacements). No amount of PB Blaster could coerce those ****ers out. I guess I'll have to ignite the blowtorch and heat them up...

I would have been done tonight if those bolts would have cooperated. I've always found that no matter what project I decide to undertake there is always a snag (if not 2 or 3), no exception. Have any of you guys ran into an issue with these particular bolts? Did heat free them up?
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Unread 08-22-2009, 09:46 PM   #26
southbound
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin View Post
be sure that the springs are J1R's all the way around.
I'm assuming that these are the Heavy Duty springs. My kit from Oconee had 2 heavies for the front and 2 mediums for the rear. I was confused about this. So I called Quadratec (the company which actually shipped me the kit, I guess they have some kind of deal worked out...) and the tech guy told me that this was a common question, but that I was supposed to have 2 HD springs for the front and 2 med's for the rear. He said that this was how the kit is shipped.

It doesn't worry me too much because I have a winch on the front, so the HD's will work well there; and I do not have a hardtop, and never plan to get rid of the soft top set-up. I'm assuming that the mediums will do okay back there and not sag or give the Jeep a "high front, low rear" stance.

Was this the same kit that you guys received?
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Unread 08-22-2009, 10:32 PM   #27
YJake
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Been looking at this kit for my YJ as I intend to keep it forever.

Should I just go ahead and order the full heavy duty kit? It's a few bills more but if it'll keep me from sagging in the next 5yrs I'll shell the bills out

I'm loving the trend here guys! I plan to get this kit and run some 31's with my 2.5L and just enjoy it like that. Might lock the front and add some loose ends but that's it
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Unread 08-22-2009, 11:00 PM   #28
southbound
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MosinMe,

I feel the same way about mine It's my work of art. I have too much time and money in to ever think about selling her.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 01:42 AM   #29
mudsling
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I installed the OME (heavy duty springs) lift kit on my 94 YJ. Get the U-bolt kit by rancho. I never installed a lift kit before but I thought it was fairly simple, I did it in my back yard by myself and it went quick. I installed 31 inch tires since I have a 4 banger I lost 5 gear. I love the ride and very happy with the lift kit.
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Unread 08-23-2009, 11:46 AM   #30
moonshinefuel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southbound View Post
Started the install today. I'm done with the front. PB Blaster saved me on the u-bolts (they all came right off). I lowered the Jeep down after it was finished and I have to say the stance is perfect, even with the rear sagging.

Now the rear went really smoothly until I decided the remove the leafs from the front shackles. The bolts had completely seized on both the driver and passenger sides. I broke 2 sockets trying to get just the drivers side bolt off (luckily they're Craftsman, so I'll be making a trip to Sears tomorrow morning for free replacements). No amount of PB Blaster could coerce those ****ers out. I guess I'll have to ignite the blowtorch and heat them up...

I would have been done tonight if those bolts would have cooperated. I've always found that no matter what project I decide to undertake there is always a snag (if not 2 or 3), no exception. Have any of you guys ran into an issue with these particular bolts? Did heat free them up?
Those are the exact same ones that are locked on my jeep. They are frozen. Today I am going to the hardware store and shop for some sawzall blades. I am going to be doing a lot of bolt cutting on the shackle bolts, and the axle u-bolts. Seems like way to much effort, and a waste of time to get those bolts off with sockets and wrenches when you are not going to be reusing them anyways.
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