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OFFICIAL mc2100 (non emissions) thread if you have done it get in here.
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#16 | |
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no prob man, im on spring break all week, long as im done by sunday im cool, no rush
thanks again
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do dia |
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#17 |
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Just call me Moose
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Did you time it yet? What is curb idle set at?
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#18 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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#19 |
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Just call me Moose
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Check: Choke, idle mixture screws, fast idle cam, or kinked throttle linkage.
edit: Perhaps even an intake leak. |
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#20 |
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Why am I here?
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If the MC elec choke is like the Holley elec choke it will hold the idle (curb) speed a little high if the choke isn't hooked up. It can also cause this dieseling problem as it is getting too much fuel when it is trying to shut off.
I think my choke wire is black, but it has one of those connectors on it like is pictured earlier in this thread. One thing I did notice was that if the secondary oil sensor (that I removed in my bypass) was not connected there was no voltage present on this wire. As I completely removed the sensor, I just jumped the connections to make it permenent and now have constant voltage for the choke. You'll never get your timing set right if you don't get the idle down in the neighborhood of 800 or so. Yes, disconnect the vaccum line from the carb to the dist when you set the timing, cap it if you like. When you set the timing at idle, there should be no vaccum there anyway as it is a demand port for the carb. HTH |
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#21 |
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Registered User
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![]() Electric chokes have an electric spade terminal on the end of the choke housing cap and one or more ceramic heaters inside the cap. The spade terminal is supplied with +12V when the ignition is turned on, so whenever the engine is running the ceramic heater warms the bimetallic thermostat to open the choke. This come from research on electric chokes rather from my knowledge on the subject. I guess I have been one of the lucky ones, when I did the mc2100 swap and nutter bypass I have done very little adjustment other than the 2 front idle screws and it runs great. |
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#22 |
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Registered User
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I'm STILL having a problem with a stumble on throttle tip-in....
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#23 | |
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Registered User
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thanks and everyone else for the info, how exactly do i get the idle down, the idle screw? or idle mixture or what? when i crank the car for the first time and warm it up, i should be around 6-800 then i should time it?
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do dia |
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#24 |
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Why am I here?
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You have to know which screw you are dealing with. (oh boy here we go!
)I hope if I give you incorrect information that someone will correct me. (Moose, fee free to jump in here at any time) There is a screw for idle speed. Once the choke has let loose and the engine has warmed up, you can turn it and you should see it change the position of the throttle. If the choke doesn't have that wire to warm the coil (like a spring) and release it, you should be able to release it manually to let the throttle down to idle speed and unless you move the throttle enough to allow it to flip back into place the idle speed can then be adjusted. You mixture screws do nothing more than adjust the ammmount of fuel that you engine gets at idle. If you turn them in until the engine starts to stumble, let them out some and the engine should smooth out. The should be real close to what your engine needs. It's a balancing act between the idle, mixture, and timing. Adjusting one may (or may not) effect the other. Once you make and adjustment, check on the others. Yes, adjust the timing at idle speed. It keeps the mechanical advance from kicking in. |
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#25 | |
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Why am I here?
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Quote:
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#26 | |
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Just call me Moose
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Quote:
If you cannot get the idle to drop, make sure that you do not have a problem with your throttle linkage. I have seen where the air cleaner keeps it from letting off fully, or where there may be a kink in the linkage somewhere. I also highly recommend installing a manual choke. It simplifies this process immensely. |
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#27 | |
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Why am I here?
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Quote:
But if you can find that choke wire, you will have that auto choke again and one less worry once you get it set. If you have access to or know a 'wire nut' with a DMM, you can find a 12v constant wire that you can use as your choke wire. The choke will take it's own ammount of current so no worries there. It's low amperage anyway. You did find the connection out ther on the outer end of the choke housing? It should look something like that picture earlier in the thread. |
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#28 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
yeah thats the thing i have the choke connection and wire, i just dont have anywhere to put it, ive looked allll over my choke, i dont get it, but i have a crazy day of work ahead so IF i get a chance ill get pics tonight... either way everyone who has helped stay posted and ill post pics of my carb and choke, and you guys can tell me what yall think about where it goes! hi ho hi ho, dammit i dont wanna go see you guys in 12 hours
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do dia |
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#29 | |
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Registered User
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at least you get out in the fresh air some. you could be stuck chillin behind a desk for 8 hours. ![]() |
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#30 | |
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Just call me Moose
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Quote:
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