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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:14 PM   #1
pillmanrx
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1989 YJ Wrangler 
 
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A "Nutter" problem

I finally decided to nutter my 89 Wrangler this evening. I cut orange and purple wires just outside of firewall and at ICM. I spliced them together just as explained in previous post on this forum. When finished Jeep would not start. I reversed all bypass connections and it started right up. Any suggestions? I have a Weber Carb conversion on Jeep.

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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:39 PM   #2
WhyJayPA
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I know you dont want to hear this but i had the same problem. Never figured it out but im thinking maybe a bad icm might jave been the problem. I ended up doing a SBC swap so i never looked into it any further. Does yours seem like it almost wants to fire up as you let go of the key and stop cranking it over?
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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:44 PM   #3
timatoe
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I noticed on mine that the wires changed color at least twice throughout the loom, you need to start at the far end and work your way to the ICM and make sure you've got the right wires. And yes, the duct tape on the wire connections really is from the factory.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:51 PM   #4
pillmanrx
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exactly wants to fire when I let off. I tried adjusting the timing but not sure I was turning the right way.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 08:52 PM   #5
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I noticed on mine that the wires changed color at least twice throughout the loom, you need to start at the far end and work your way to the ICM and make sure you've got the right wires. And yes, the duct tape on the wire connections really is from the factory.
^ What he said.

I cut the wires close to the distributor so as to make sure I got the correct ones, then made positive ID on the wires at the ICM, and cut there. Twist the pair (important), and hook them up.

When you do the bypass, one of the wires has to be cut right at the pigtail on the ICM, as it doesn't carry across the connector.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:04 PM   #6
WhyJayPA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X

^ What he said.

I cut the wires close to the distributor so as to make sure I got the correct ones, then made positive ID on the wires at the ICM, and cut there. Twist the pair (important), and hook them up.

When you do the bypass, one of the wires has to be cut right at the pigtail on the ICM, as it doesn't carry across the connector.
I did all this an im not sure if the OP did or not but i tried everything including jumping directly from the dizzy right over to the icm before the plug. Still didnt work. Tried numerous combinations and it never fired. Just gave sort of a stumble as i would let off of the key as i was cranking it over
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"Keep your booger hook off of the bang switch"
'88 YJ SBC 350 w/ goodies, SM465 Transmission, Ford 8.8 Posi, NP231 w/ MegaShort SYE, 3.5" BDS Lift, 5/8" Boom Shackles, 33x12.50 Goodyear Duratracs, Supertop, TJ Flares, Bedlined, etc.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:08 PM   #7
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhyJayPA View Post
I did all this an im not sure if the OP did or not but i tried everything including jumping directly from the dizzy right over to the icm before the plug. Still didnt work. Tried numerous combinations and it never fired. Just gave sort of a stumble as i would let off of the key as i was cranking it over
Where was your timing set?

edit to add: If timing was close, you weren't getting power on the white wire going into the ICM. Check the connection and test reading while cranking with a multi-meter.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 09:15 PM   #8
WhyJayPA
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I advanced it the specified 8 degrees or whatever it was. Cant remember anymore
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"Keep your booger hook off of the bang switch"
'88 YJ SBC 350 w/ goodies, SM465 Transmission, Ford 8.8 Posi, NP231 w/ MegaShort SYE, 3.5" BDS Lift, 5/8" Boom Shackles, 33x12.50 Goodyear Duratracs, Supertop, TJ Flares, Bedlined, etc.
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Unread 12-29-2011, 10:49 PM   #9
NonRubicon
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This is from the Howell TBI installation manual, describing their version of the Nutter bypass. I followed this and had no problems finding the right wires. This does require that you pull the computer harness through the firewall though.

Quote:
Once [the computer] harness is removed from within the vehicle [passenger compartment], lay the connector over the intake... Remove main harness away from firewall by unfastening mounting clips, and strip covering back to expose wiring at the computer harness and main harness junction... Some earlier models Jeeps do not have the numbered computer connector, the same color codes, or Dura-Spark Module Connector. Located on the back of the computer harness connector are the wire location numbers. To reveal connector number locations, remove the black retainer clip from the back of the computer connector.

Number 47 (light green/black or orange on some models) will be cut and spliced into 59 (orange) at or near the junction in the main harness. Number 18 (purple) will be cut and spliced into the ignition module jumper wire supplied in kit. Some models require a direct splice or connection at module connector (purple wire). For models 87-91 use the procedure in the next four lines as described.

To install jumper wire, remove the two (2 and 4 pin) connectors from the ignition module located under coolant bottle and raise connectors and harness to locate 4-pin connector. Release connector lock and install jumper wire in the open or C position of the four-pin connector. Close lock and feed jumper wire through harness to junction and splice into 18 (purple). Re-connect 2 and 4 pin connectors to Dura-spark module.
Splice number 47 to number 59.

The "jumper wire" mentioned is just a small weatherpack terminal pin with about 5" of purple wire already attached. All you do is insert the pin/wire combo into the open spot in the ICM 4-pin connector and splice the loose end of the purple "jumper wire" to the number-18 (purple) wire you cut from the ECM connector. I don't remember if it's male or female pin though (it'll be the same as the other pins on the connector - I want to say female) - IIRC it should be for a 20-18 gauge wire.

Like one of these:


This method preserves the factory twist on the ignition wires too.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 08:17 AM   #10
pillmanrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Where was your timing set?

edit to add: If timing was close, you weren't getting power on the white wire going into the ICM. Check the connection and test reading while cranking with a multi-meter.
I have to get it running to check timing with a light don't I? Which way should I be turning distributor to get it close---I am not much of a mechanic.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 06:33 PM   #11
pillmanrx
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started over today cut wires at dizzy and went straight to ICM without messing with loom. twisted wires and it fired right up. I don't have timing light so I adjusted by ear I will check later with light. Runs really good so far I just hope it fixes the problem of backfiring and stalling on the highway.
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Unread 12-31-2011, 08:10 PM   #12
Old4X
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Great to hear you got it running.
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