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Unread 02-08-2005, 12:32 PM   #1
hguffman
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nutter bypass and a weber

do these two mods make sense to do together? The Weber Carb isn't a computer controlled unit anyway... so why take the ECU out of a loop if it isn't controlling anything anymore?

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89 Wrangler 4.2L w/ Posi-Lok, Weber Carb, Electric Cooling Fan

THE RED SOX WIN THE PENNANT!!! THE RED SOX WIN THE PENNANT!!!!

THE RED SOX WIN IT ALL!!!!!! WORLD CHAMPIONS BABY!!!!

Last edited by hguffman; 02-08-2005 at 12:43 PM..
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Unread 02-08-2005, 12:51 PM   #2
COJAM
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I did it just so I could remove to computer all together. It really will clean up under the hood if you just pull the whole thing.

I did not notice any change in performance from nuttering after the Weber.
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Unread 02-08-2005, 12:59 PM   #3
rrclimber
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I did the nutter only because I had done it prior to installing my weber. But you are right there is really no reason other than wanting it completely gone, to do the nutter with a weber installed.
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Unread 02-08-2005, 02:04 PM   #4
el guapo
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actually, the computer still controls your timing. go for it - it's only like 2 wires...
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Unread 02-08-2005, 02:41 PM   #5
COJAM
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I would time it 12 BTDC after you nutter it.
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Unread 02-11-2005, 08:17 PM   #6
Tshark299
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After the nutter do you guys run your distributer advance on manifold or ported vaccum?
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'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-11-2005, 08:36 PM   #7
CJaredo7
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Hey, I'm in the CJ crowd...but thought I'd come over here and take a peek...I did the nutter and an MC2150 for a friends YJ...I'd do them both at the same time. I think you really have to do the nutter if you want the weber to work right..because the stock carb has the stepper motor on it and that controls a lot of the goings on if I remember right.

You will want to run your vac advance on PORTED vac to get the most out of it...it may work on manifold but it won't really help anything because it will be too far advanced at lower rpms to be of any good once you get in the upper rpm range. Know what I mean?

Also, I am running mine at like 8*, but I'm running HEI and a MC2100 on my rig...but it's the same 258 6 cyl motor in YJs up to 1990.
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Unread 02-11-2005, 08:53 PM   #8
neuroplague
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I did the bypass many years ago and rid myself of that stupid bbd and useless computer. I then dropped in an older non electronic carter from a cj and it worked great for a few years, until it became tempermental and required too much TLC. The weber replaced the Carter legacy in my Jeep and changed the way it drove... WHAT A BOOST OF POWER!!! not to mention its been going 5 years strong and not a single problem yet. I advanced the timing, replaced the clutch fan with a flex fan, installed a K&N plenum, cone air filter and got pretty intimate with the cat and a screw driver. I'd have to say that the increase in power was very noticeable. I attacked the wiring harness when I did my HEI distributor, now most of the harness is gone leaving me plenty of room in the split loom for accessories. You never realize just how many useless wires you have until you trace them back to nothing... I filled a trash bag. Oh .. and to answer Tshark's question.. I took the distributor advance vacuum from the port below the carb.
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Unread 02-11-2005, 08:58 PM   #9
Tshark299
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Yeah, I see what you mean with ported but I remember when I was experimenting back and forth it seemed to have less accelerating power on ported which surprised me, so I eventually just left it on manifold. I had the timing set to stock, but maybe I need to mess with that a bit?
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-12-2005, 08:13 AM   #10
CJaredo7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tshark299
Yeah, I see what you mean with ported but I remember when I was experimenting back and forth it seemed to have less accelerating power on ported which surprised me, so I eventually just left it on manifold. I had the timing set to stock, but maybe I need to mess with that a bit?

Interesting...if it has less accelerating power when you have it on ported vac, then it sounds like it's maybe advancing too much.... try driving it with NO vac advance on the dizzy at all and see what happens. IF it drives much better, then you may want to get a advance curve kit from crane and play with it some... Then this would allow you to re-time the base advance, which should be somewhere between 6-12* (mines at 8*) and play with your idle mixture settings on the carb a little to get the optimum idle result, then you will be able to better troubleshoot the acceleration issue with vac on port. I know it made a big difference on my rig when I did it that way.
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Unread 02-12-2005, 11:28 AM   #11
Tshark299
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Hmm... I'll give it a try. As soon as I can find my timing light I'll start messing with it again.

When tuning the carb (Weber), should I have the advance disconnected and plugged when setting the mixture or does that not really matter. I think I read somewhere that it should be, but I never have in the past.
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-12-2005, 11:33 AM   #12
CJaredo7
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Yes you need to disconnect it and plug it up
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Unread 02-12-2005, 11:35 AM   #13
Tshark299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJaredo7
Yes you need to disconnect it and plug it up
Wow, that was fast, thanks. Now I have something else to do today.
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 02-12-2005, 11:48 AM   #14
CJaredo7
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heeh, i'm at work so I have nothing else better to do right now
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1982 CJ-7 Laredo, restified with a few mods worth reading about at http://www.inajeep.com/

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