I just rewired it back to normal (at this poing Im just twisting wires together), started it up and got it idling ok, then I screwed in the idle jets. I didnt get to far untill it stalled out, so I kept screwing them in a little and then cranking it over and repeated this process untill I thought they were in pretty far. It said something about being able to see the stepper motor needles in the carb when you do this but I dont know what the heck a stepper motor needle is so I couldnt identify them. Then I rewired the orange and purple again and it still wont start. it cranks over but thats it.
As for the timing, I set it at 10 before I started this whole thing and it was running great. Should I reset it to 8? The instructions say set it to 8 plus or minus 2*.
I havent done anything with the vacuum lines yet, should I give that a try? I can always reverse anything I do so Im not worried about that. Plus unless this carb runs way better after the bypass then Im switching to a motorcraft. My carb runs like dirt now.
I think I may be screwing up the idle jet part which tricks the ECM.
I still think that your timing is so far off that it wont start. You said it turns over and really IMO the switching of vac lines is not going to stop it from at least sputtering to life. I said it and then timatoe said it, (although he mentions re-runing new wires) you need 2 people, one to mess with the distributor and one to crank the key. Although you can do it yourself, I bet you will get tired of running
^^so just move the distributor a bit and see if it cranks over and starts, and if it doesnt then move it a little more and keep repeating this process? No timing light here?
exactly, light wont do you much good when your in the cab or even if your looking at it. Adjust it till it runs almost consistent then use the light to get it better. If your write up says 8, try 8, if it doesnt run well, keep adjusting, take it for a quick spin, make sure the upper end still has power. But please make sure its close to good before you drive it. If not you could foul your plugs. Use the throttle and work it slowly up and down untill the engine doesnt stutter and miss. Notice in the post from Unfocused that if the vac is not moved then your upper end rpms will lag and it will dog down.
Alright screw it, I just bought a MC2100 kit from that guy in CO last night. Still going to have to do the nutter conversion untill I upgrade my distributor but I think it will be a different process with the new carb.
I played around with the distributor yesterday and will a little today. Havent touched the vacuum hoses.
This guy I bought the kit from needs to know if I want an electric choke or a manual choke? Is one better for off road? Whats the difference?
Thanks for all the help and quick responses!
Ive been messing around with the Carter until my new carb gets here. Most of the directions for the nutter bypass say the easiest way to adjust the stepper motor needles is to disconnect the stepper motor and adjust them. I pulled the stepper motor and cant figure out how to go about adjusting anything. It seems that everything is locked in place. The needles don't screw or move up or down, I cant get anything to move. That whole plate that the needles are connected to must move in and out huh? Do I just need to use more force? Im just waiting for that spring to ping off and disappear into the twilight zone.
I pulled apart/started to splice the vac lines I need to, I just need a T.
I also want an HEI and the only affordable HEI I can find for a YJ is the Dragon Fire, which Ive heard is a cheap knock off of quality HEI's. Is the performance of a $300 HEI, like the DUI, that much different than one that costs $100?
Go with the CRT Performance HEI, almost all of the other "cheap" ones use a hardened cam gear that will cause internal damage to the engine. Again, even with that you HAVE TO get the engine back to top dead center.
Originally Posted by George Orwell
We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm.
That whole plate that the needles are connected to must move in and out huh? Do I just need to use more force? Im just waiting for that spring to ping off and disappear into the twilight zone.
You're right, that whole plate moves in and out. Remove the spring and put it in a safe place. The needles can be removed too if you get the plate pulled out far enough. The needles and spring just get in the way when you're trying to manually work the plate. It might be stuck, but even if it isn't stuck, it requires a bit of force to move it; feels like maybe there's a worm gear mechanism inside there or something. Take care and support the plastic electrical connector piece on the back if you resort to brute force pushing in on the plate.
I adjusted the stepper needles, hooked up the vacuum hoses and re-did the electrical and it started up! After playing with the timing it was idling perfectly and reving really smoothly, although its on jackstands right now so I couldnt take it for a drive. I turned it on and off multiple times with no problem, then I had it running for about 5 minutes straight and it cut out. I got it started again after another 5 minutes although Im not really sure what I did to start it, but 5 minutes after that it cut out again and It wont start now.
Umm I would have the ignition control module tested... Sounds like it may be damaged.
Originally Posted by JeepHammer
I don't mind writing for Fernando because he reads, and re-reads EVERY WORD!... Good to write for someone that actually READS the answer, and takes time to UNDERSTAND what comes back for an answer!
I went out the next morning and it started up and starts every time now. It runs kind of funny though. It cuts out unless my timing is around 16-18 BTDC @1000 RPM, and it looks like the stepper needles have moved cause I dont see that shoulder anymore. I think I screwed up the stepper needle part because I messed around with the idle jets and left them in some unknown, non functioning position before the bypass, then I removed the stepper motor and pulled the needles into the carb that way. The instructions say to either pull the stepper needles into the carb manually leaving the idle jets alone and leaving the electric plug on the back of the stepper motor plugged in forevermore, or un-screw the idle jets while the vehicle is running to pull the stepper needles into the carb and to unplug the electric connection on the stepper motor and leave it unplugged forevermore. I kind of did both? No matter how much I mess with the idle jets and distributor I can't get the timing right and it drives kind of funny. It idles almost like a kitten, tends to multi-jerk in first gear sometimes, and just drives kindof funny. 4-hi stalls out most always on takeoff, 2-hi sounds like its going to stall on takeoff, and I have to shift at lower speeds than I used to(increase in low end torque?). Ive also noticed some really good things like going up-hill with low rpm's while maintaining really smooth idling. Any thoughts? As long as things sound smooth I wont get any engine damage driving it like this will I?, until I figure it out? Im determined to conquer this damn process before I put my new carb on.