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Unread 11-25-2008, 08:35 AM   #1
lollygagger8
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NP231 Popping out of Gear

When engaged in 4High, my T-Case will pop out and go back to 2W. I used 4Low and it didn't pop out.
Is this an easy fix, or are gears not meshing right? Anyone else have this problem? I tried the search, but didn't find what I was looking for.

I should mention I have 4.0L, NP231 w/ SYE.....don't know if that makes a diff.

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Unread 11-25-2008, 02:34 PM   #2
Mean Max
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The gears may indeed be failing to mesh properly. The question becomes, "Why?"

It is possible that your shift pads are worn out/missing on the shifter forks, or the forks may be damaged/bent.

Here is a link to the replacement pads.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52219_01.htm
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Unread 11-25-2008, 02:45 PM   #3
crb577
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stop driving it. Crack the case your shift forks are prob bad that is exactly what mine was doing. you might be lucky and get away with just wear pads but this is what happened to mine.

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Unread 12-01-2008, 11:49 AM   #4
lollygagger8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crb577 View Post
stop driving it. Crack the case your shift forks are prob bad that is exactly what mine was doing. you might be lucky and get away with just wear pads but this is what happened to mine.
Ouch! I hope it's just the pads then!

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Originally Posted by Mean Max View Post
The gears may indeed be failing to mesh properly. The question becomes, "Why?"

It is possible that your shift pads are worn out/missing on the shifter forks, or the forks may be damaged/bent.

Here is a link to the replacement pads.

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52219_01.htm
Thanks Max! If I just open the case in the middle, is the fork/pads right there and easy to change?
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Unread 12-01-2008, 01:04 PM   #5
bigsquat
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before you pull the whole thing out ,take a look at the spring and ball that keep the shift fork rail inplace. its accessed from the out side. if theres a lot of metal in your oil then you might as well pull the whole thing out anyway and rebuild it.
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Unread 12-01-2008, 01:21 PM   #6
lollygagger8
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What bolt/nut do you remove to check the ball/spring from the outside?

Would changing my fluid help at all? I haven't checked it
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Unread 12-01-2008, 01:25 PM   #7
crb577
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personally I think if it's doing that then you have symptoms of exactly what happened to me it doesn't take long and is very easy to crack the case open to take a look inside everything is very easily accessible takes me about 15 mins to crack a 231 now. they are very easy to work on just be sure to make lots of mental notes about how things came apart. label everything that comes out as well. good luck and changing your oil prob won't help the situation but wouldn't hurt it either.
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1993 Jeep Wrangler
4.0L Tom Woods rear HD shaft
D30 w/yukon alloys, lock right, jb4x4 bracket, Rusty's HD tie rod 8.8w/ LSD,SOA xj rear 100" wheelbase, homemade greasable boomerang shackles, SS braided lines, 1" prothane body lift, 35" TrXus M/T, smitty built XRC.
lots of gen right armor and rear stinger.
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Unread 12-01-2008, 02:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crb577 View Post
stop driving it. Crack the case your shift forks are prob bad that is exactly what mine was doing. you might be lucky and get away with just wear pads but this is what happened to mine.

i remember seeing that! lol the oil was shiney from all the fragments ahahah
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Unread 12-01-2008, 02:16 PM   #9
lollygagger8
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Sunuva!!! lol
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Unread 12-01-2008, 04:21 PM   #10
crb577
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Yeah the mechanic that looked at it told me my t-case was just fine and then i brought it to my cousin's tranny shop and he said it was my t-case so i found out for myself but it's all fixed now and it's getting a 4:1 in a few weeks
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1993 Jeep Wrangler
4.0L Tom Woods rear HD shaft
D30 w/yukon alloys, lock right, jb4x4 bracket, Rusty's HD tie rod 8.8w/ LSD,SOA xj rear 100" wheelbase, homemade greasable boomerang shackles, SS braided lines, 1" prothane body lift, 35" TrXus M/T, smitty built XRC.
lots of gen right armor and rear stinger.
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