Novak SK2X shifter assembly for New Process 231, - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 34 Old 08-12-2017, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
Mediceagle
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Novak SK2X shifter assembly for New Process 231,

Has anyone used the Novak shifter linkage upgrade? I am seriously thinking the reason my tranny went in the first place could have been prevented by their shifter.


https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/...sk2x/kit-sk2x/

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post #2 of 34 Old 08-12-2017, 03:16 PM
NHfireLJ
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I used the Savvy cable shifter... Not designed for the YJ, but was able to make it fit... Took a little tweaking but works great..

EDIT: I swapping in an XJ tcase shifter handle assembly
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post #3 of 34 Old 08-12-2017, 07:53 PM
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I'm curious how the TC shifter could have caused a transmission failure? Not following your logic on that.
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Bill
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post #4 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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I was towing it on dolly wheels and the transfer case was not in neutral. I checked multiple times but well I get a new transmission and transfer case.

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post #5 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediceagle View Post
I was towing it on dolly wheels and the transfer case was not in neutral. I checked multiple times but well I get a new transmission and transfer case.

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Do you have a true neutral plate?

IF NOT, I have a new one available.
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post #6 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediceagle View Post
I am seriously thinking the reason my tranny went in the first place could have been prevented by their shifter.
Agree with bpounds, how do you figure the outside of the t-case caused the trans to fail? To us this reads like, "It makes noise when it's running, must be the ignition key."

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post #7 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
I'm curious how the TC shifter could have caused a transmission failure? Not following your logic on that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mediceagle View Post
I was towing it on dolly wheels and the transfer case was not in neutral. I checked multiple times but well I get a new transmission and transfer case.
Okay, gotcha. But that's not really the shifter causing that. You cannot use a dolly with the 231 TC. Unless you convert it with a true neutral plate, and I would not do it even then. If you feel you must use a dolly, you should drop a drive shaft.

Good to know, for after you get it all repaired.

Bill
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post #8 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
Okay, gotcha. But that's not really the shifter causing that. You cannot use a dolly with the 231 TC. Unless you convert it with a true neutral plate, and I would not do it even then. If you feel you must use a dolly, you should drop a drive shaft.

Good to know, for after you get it all repaired.
Doesn't the 231's neutral disconnect it from the input shaft? I thought it just locked the two yokes together. I would think all it would do is cause the front diff to spin, assuming the wheels were ratcheted down, and assuming the CAD was still there, the CAD side should be spinning. I mean, it's not ideal, but would it cause damage? I thought it was only an issue when you had an automatic locker in the front.

Also, the 87's, did they come with a 231 or a 208?

To the OP: Here's the post on the true neutral plate: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...plate-1076065/

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post #9 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by project_mercy View Post
Doesn't the 231's neutral disconnect it from the input shaft? I thought it just locked the two yokes together. I would think all it would do is cause the front diff to spin, assuming the wheels were ratcheted down, and assuming the CAD was still there, the CAD side should be spinning. I mean, it's not ideal, but would it cause damage? I thought it was only an issue when you had an automatic locker in the front.

Also, the 87's, did they come with a 231 or a 208?

To the OP: Here's the post on the true neutral plate: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...plate-1076065/
I'm not even sure how you get a dolly to work. The front and rear outputs from the TC are locked together in neutral. So, assuming the true neutral had not been done, how come the front wheels were not turning on the dolly? On edit: all of that front end rotation must have been going through the differential to the axle disconnect, spinning those spiders at ridiculous revs.

But regarding the transmission, you are supposed to put it in a high gear, or Park if an auto, so that the transmission does not turn at all. The trans will not lube itself properly if you put the trans in neutral and let the output side turn.

I'm not sure about what happens in the TC with the true neutral, so I would not use a dolly with it without doing some more research. Yes, the TN disconnects the rear from the front outputs, but I don't know if that is designed to turn at high speeds. I remember removing some needle bearings when I installed my SYE. So I don't really know and would not recommend it to anyone without some research. My research would start by finding out what the TJ manual has to say about dolly towing, since the true neutral was included in the TJ. Every towed TJ I've seen was still being flat towed. Don't think I have every seen one on a dolly. And the TJ was really popular with the RV crowd.

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post #10 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
I'm not even sure how you get a dolly to work. The front and rear outputs from the TC are locked together in neutral. So, assuming the true neutral had not been done, how come the front wheels were not turning on the dolly?
Open diff spins the wheel with the least traction. In this case, one wheel is ratcheted down, and the other is open at the CAD, so (in theory) it should be spinning the CAD-side half-shaft? I don't think the oil pump in the TC would run though, since I think it's driven off the input shaft, but then again that would be the same if you were flat towing it.

I would never use a dolly on anything but a FWD vehicle. There's too much that can go wrong, for little gain.

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post #11 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 10:01 AM
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Yeah, that occurred to me as you were typing and I edited my post.

The TC oil pump is on the rear output, so it continues to oil itself.
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post #12 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
Okay, gotcha. But that's not really the shifter causing that. You cannot use a dolly with the 231 TC. Unless you convert it with a true neutral plate, and I would not do it even then. If you feel you must use a dolly, you should drop a drive shaft.

Good to know, for after you get it all repaired.
Why not? People flat tow with a true neutral plate all the time, using a dolly and and a true neutral would be less wear on the system...

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post #13 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by NHfireLJ View Post
Why not? People flat tow with a true neutral plate all the time, using a dolly and and a true neutral would be less wear on the system...
You might be right. I'm just cautious when I don't really know.

My thinking is, that when you flat tow, your front and rear driveshafts are still turning at approximately the same speed, with or without true neutral.

When you dolly tow, somewhere inside the TC, one shaft is turning at 3k RPM while another is not. Is that bearing made for 3k RPM? Dolly towing is the only situation I can think of that does that. It might happen in 2WD when you're spinning in mud, but that is for a limited time, not thousands of miles of towing.

So, I don't want to put too fine a point on it, I'm just saying that I don't know if dolly towing is blessed by the manufacturer under any circumstances. Someone who really needs to know would have to research it. I don't need to know. I do have the true neutral. But I don't need to dolly tow. Flat towing so far has worked out really well for me.

Bill
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post #14 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bpounds View Post
You might be right. I'm just cautious when I don't really know.

When you dolly tow, somewhere inside the TC, one shaft is turning at 3k RPM while another is not. Is that bearing made for 3k RPM? Dolly towing is the only situation I can think of that does that. It might happen in 2WD when you're spinning in mud, but that is for a limited time, not thousands of miles of towing.
On a stock YJ driving down the highway at 70mph in 2wd the front drive shaft doesn't spin (or spins very slowly).

Not saying it is okay to dolly tow it but if the cad is unlocked I can't see a mechanical difference between dolly towing and flat towing with a true neutral plate or even driving in 2wd.

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post #15 of 34 Old 08-13-2017, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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I towed it on dolly wheels for two hours without incident. Then a month later I towed it on dolly wheels for 6 hours. Now I will have a new transmission and TC. I will either drive it or trailer it from now on. If I get in a bind and have to use the dolly wheels I'll just pull the back driveshaft. The expensive lessons are always the ones we remember the most.


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Originally Posted by NHfireLJ View Post
Do you have a true neutral plate?

IF NOT, I have a new one available.
I am not sure if I need it anymore with my TC upgrade. But thank you.
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